I am trying to find out what the strongest wheel I can put on my right front.....I had the center of the wheel come apart while running in 2nd, and my wheel came off just this last weekend in a 100lap enduro race.... I was using a factory steel wheel.....rules say the steel wheels can be reinforced, how do you recommond doing this? Or will a factory aluminum wheel be better since it wont flex like steel? Or isnt it strong enough? Cant use aftermarket alum. wheels. any help in figuring out which would work best would be of great help!

Thanks in advance!! I need to keep my cavy together for the complete 100laps.

just use a 15 inch factory aluminum on both right side tires. easy and effective get a stud from a parts house that is about 1/2 an inch longer thats what i did and havent had 1 bit of problems since my steel wheel broke

I use 14's , I just wasnt sure if aluminum whould be strong enough....i have 2 pontiac aluminum wheels that i was using on the rears, but i guess i should put them on the rights. Thanks

dont use factory wheels, they are not made for the rigors of racing!!!

if your gonna rac ebuy aftermarket racing wheels that are made to handle it

BTW i know a lot fo people run stock wheels and not have issues with it but i would advise not to. its not worth it

alot of j-bodys around here have problems of breaking the steel wheels, but now everyone is smart enough to run the factory aluminum and since i have not heard any factory aluminum wheels having problems, and to bob not all of us can afford to buy aftermarket wheels, the factory aluminum do the job just fine as long as you put some longer studs in

We cannot use aftermarket wheels at that track, so our options are limited......factory aluminum, or factory steel, or reinforced steel for the right front. Or I would get one strong aftermarket one for the right front.

if you cant afford to race right then you shouldnt be racing at all.

if your track does not allow aftermarket wheels i would approach teh tech committee on the amount fo safety that it hinders not running a racing wheel. i understand an pffset rule but not allowing a race wheel that makes it 100 times safer is just stupid

the aluminum wheels work just fine, theres nothing wrong with them, all the j-bodys that have switched to them here havent broken a single one, why spend money if theres no need to

Try to find a set of wheels off of a neon with they are thicker and run the 1 inch lug nuts. We kept breaking factory steel gm wheels then we switched to neon wheels and have not broken one since (going on 5 years now).

The Caravan steel wheels will work too, thier probably the same as the neon. Very tough thick wheel

I got a set of dodge steelies

Bob Guptill wrote:if you cant afford to race right then you shouldnt be racing at all.

There's a difference in can't afford to race and can't afford to race w top dollar parts. Gotta start somewhere.

racing wheels are not top dollar parts. inconel valves are...

Use dodge neon stock steel wheels. They are much stronger than gm's and use the same stud setup.

I use steel wheels that have reinforcing gussets welded to the outside of the wheel in the space between the bolt holes. I also weld the wheel center to the rim on the outside to make it more ridgid. That's a way to do it using your skills instead of money and also improve safety. I also run a Caravan hub set up on the RR after proposing it to tech. and have no broken wheels or hubs. I run 100 lap enduro's on a 3/8 mile banked oval.

Poppop

Kenny "Poppop" Brown