Hey guys. I'm sure few of you know me, but with all the things posted on Jbo has helped so much on my research. So Thank You!
I have a yellow 2003 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport, 2 dr coupe, 5 speed Ecotec.. I have 178,000 miles on it and do not have 2nd gear due to bad previous owners. I will be rebuilding, cleaning everything, and painting most of all of it. This is going to be a HUGE project!
I will update as much as possible, I like a lot of photos for a step by step look see.
The engine was stripped down to the block cuz I did not have an engine hoist and didn't have the funds to get one. So as off goes, or at least everything except the kitchen sink...
Any advice during this build will be accepted and appreciated
So my current Mods I have now:
Bomber body kit (will most likely removing completely)
Altezza tails (black style, not chrome, and will be tinted shortly)
Tokico D-Specs with Eibach Sportlines
17" Enkei RSF-2 wheels with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's
Level Zero Motorsports motor mounts (upper and lower)
Prothane transmission mounts
Custom cold air intake
Tsudo 4-2-1 header
Custom cat back exhaust
Battery relocation to truck (Gerry-Rigged with plumbers tape to hold it in place LOL)
B&M short shifter
Black Cat Customs instrument cluster (White face with blue LEDs)
Hptuners Pro Suite
So let the tearing apart begin!!!
Got rear ended two years ago.. very minor, and fixable... "It'll buff out"
Car in my jobs parking lot
Front with Bomber body kit front
Engine before (don't mind the sticker... just yet)
A little cancer.. fixable... kinda.
Intake mani and valve cover off.. clean head too
Pistons, very minimal build up. I was impressed
Crankcase was very clean, and main bearings looked superb
And out came the engine and tranny last night.
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Good luck with the build man!
Straight lines are over-rated In My Opinion =]
Looks good man !, hard work but it will pay off. Keep it up
looking good so far man. i like your wheels....have the exact same ones
Hopefully you give a good overall cleaning of the car while you have it apart. A good scrub under the hood with the motor out goes a long ways.
As far as the build goes, how much POWER are you wanting to make? (not psi) This will drive your build the proper direction. That will help with compression and everything else along those lines. Our trans's are not very rebuild friendly. Usually better to replace than rebuild.
Relocate your ECU to inside the car, or people put them under the cowl... both good choices.
I like the wheels but not the yellow drums so much.
Good project ahead and just take your time to do it right. I pray to god you have a good tuner around! You can find used turbo stuff on here that is still plenty good.
Speaking of used performance parts for sale cheap, I might have some things that you would be interested in! PM me for details if you are interested. As far as the car goes, the cleaner the better. IMO, a set of Toyo tails and a clean 95-02 trunk lid would improve the looks 100%! Keep up the work and best of luck on your build.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Mmmmm more yellow! Keep up the good work man, in for updates.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I vote ditching the body kit and using funds for more go fast bits. Looking forward to this one!
BuiltNBoosted wrote:Hopefully you give a good overall cleaning of the car while you have it apart. A good scrub under the hood with the motor out goes a long ways.
Me and my friend Big Dan are gonna tear everything out of the bay and repaint it.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:As far as the build goes, how much POWER are you wanting to make? (not psi) This will drive your build the proper direction. That will help with compression and everything else along those lines. Our trans's are not very rebuild friendly. Usually better to replace than rebuild.
I have a small goal of 225HP at the wheels.. and then whatever it takes to take down a 2003 Mustang Cobra SVT pushing 500HP. He drives everybody crazy saying that Ford is the best and the fastest car, and blah blah blah. I know what the Cavy's are capable of !
I have just ordered Wiseco Pistons 8.9:1 CR with rings, and H-Beam Eagle Rods with pins as a combo for under $800, Brand New!! I want to put in a limited slip differential so I figure if I don't get it rebuilt then I don't know if a transmission shop would put one in. (Green Team LSD)
BuiltNBoosted wrote:Relocate your ECU to inside the car, or people put them under the cowl... both good choices.
Where inside is a good place?
BuiltNBoosted wrote:I like the wheels but not the yellow drums so much.
I will change that. I am going to do lime green accents everywhere.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:Good project ahead and just take your time to do it right. I pray to god you have a good tuner around! You can find used turbo stuff on here that is still plenty good.
I know a good tuner, and already bought lots of stuff on here. I had a wanted post but nobody seemed to care to help, but hey its good.
Josh Meyers wrote:I vote ditching the body kit and using funds for more go fast bits. Looking forward to this one!
Hey man, thanks for the parts you sold me, I be serious about that. The side skirts were literally ripped off and tossed in the trash.. they were broken. and the front clip....... will go.
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Well as far as turbo kit goes, I put down 325/283 on a T3/T4 57 Trim stage 3, .63a/r turbo. Not sure what turbo parts you have so far but Paul Richwine is selling a manifold.
250 is east to get out our cars, even with a Hahn kit. Its going to take a lot more to beat a 500hp mustang though.
As for the TG Insert. Do it yourself. Its VERY simple to separate the trans and install it. no need for a shop to tackle it. save your self a lot of cash. Its hard to find getrag parts to replace the internals on our cars... I know, im on trans #4 I think.
As for relocating the ECU, you can put it under the wiper cowl, or I put mine under the dash above the pedals, you have to cut the grommet a bit more where the wires come through the firewall but unplug the ecu, thread the wires through and hide it up under the dash.
Your car, but I think black would look better than lime green for accents.
Pistons and H-Beams seem unnecessary for 225whp IMO.
Brian wrote:Pistons and H-Beams seem unnecessary for 225whp IMO.
forged > stock regardless of power level. Not to mention if he decides to turn it up to 300+
I have off the top of my head:
T3 Garrett Turbo 60 trim .60/.63
turbo mani
RDFabs intake manifold with an LS1 TB
intercooler
as you know.... forged internals on the way
38mm Tial Wastegate
50mm Tial BOV
32# gtp injectors
oil feed line fitting for my head
oil drain line with a fitting in an oil pan i bought
2" piping I bought real cheap
Boost gauge
Oil pressure gauge
triple pod pillar
and I think that is it
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Right away I can see that your going to need different injectors. The ones you have listed are much to small.
Find yourself a set of #42 injectors. They will support your goals and allow a little headroom.
Otherwise cant wait to see the build.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:Brian wrote:Pistons and H-Beams seem unnecessary for 225whp IMO.
forged > stock regardless of power level. Not to mention if he decides to turn it up to 300+
I like to burn money in piles too.
Money better spent elsewhere IMO but good luck to the OP nonetheless.
Philly D wrote:Right away I can see that your going to need different injectors. The ones you have listed are much to small.
Find yourself a set of #42 injectors. They will support your goals and allow a little headroom.
Otherwise cant wait to see the build.
id go bigger than that even... I know he said he wanted 225, but realistically, with that turbo, and some 60# injectors he can be at 300 EASILY.
With already doing forged rods, simply pull the injectors, swap in bigger, 300+hp for $250. Much easier than tearing the motor down to upgrade later.
OP: While you have the block out of the car, tap the girdle for the oil return. Its a spot on the back of the block that drains back down into the pan and is where the factory turbo ecos drain. Best spot by far. For turbo feed, there is also a spot on the back of the block where the saab feed comes from that works perfect for that turbo. If you are looking at the back of the block, its behind the coolant pipe on the right. Grab the
Oil adapter and a 1/8"NPT to -4an fitting, some -4an line, and a -4 an 90 and use that for turbo feed. Will regulate it perfectly. As for the return... a -10an should work perfect as well if you drain to the girdle.
sounds great. tearing apart the crank today... and attempting the unattemptable from many amateurs.... the tranny!!! Dun dun dun dunnnnn!!!
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Ok guys...Sorry about the abandonment for a couple of weeks. I've had a job offer for another job, and have been studying night and day for the certifications that are required. So I have, since my last post, cleaned just about all of the internals up (block, head, lower end... scrubbed clean). I got a couple new goodies also that are pictured!
I have decided to get internals so that I do not have to get back into the block later on, unless it is for motor failure, which if done right.... I won't have to.
I also started to take apart the tranny, and it is a pain lol but I now know what gear is what and the positions the linkage has to be in for each gear.. I've learned alot guys.. Plus my best friends Big Dan and Daniel (Yes two Daniels) have helped out alot... Thanks Guys so far!!
Here's my engine in pieces to be cleaned, all laid out on tables in my garage
My pressure plate.. wore quite evenly as well as the clutch and friction disk.. but the springs on the clutch disk were loose in their slots.... hmmmmm
Looky what I got!!!!
Shiny things!
When I got my rods and pistons.... It was like X-mas! I almost had a tear of joy in my eye
Rinsing off the block of just being honed and cleaned... using brake parts cleaner
And the start of the tranny rebuild. Oh what fun!
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Ok guys. I'm Sorry for the delay! I just got this new job as an IT technician and I love it. I haven't been posting cuz my car is 100 miles from my house in a friends garage.
So I have a bunch of photos this time to show a bunch of my work.. plus my best friend helped me and was using his new GoPro generic camera. I'm soo excited to get this build on the road, cuz I miss driving my Ecotec.. currently driving a 2002 chevy cavalier base 2 door coupe 5 speed.
Here we go.. I'm proud of my work and was very pleased after I got some things straightened out.. thanks to everyone on the forums.
Took the engine harness from the engine bay, sitting on the floor, preparing to clean the bay
This is what happens when you have a "click" type torque wrench and you don't hear the click (Only supposed to be torqued to 15 in. lbs)
THIS IS WHAT WAS IN (and on) MY ENGINE!!!!!!
Me cleaning the silicone off the block from the first mishap..
My valve cover
A clean block to start with.
New forged internals to get the job done
Comparison? I think not!
Puttin in the crank
My Clevite rod bearings
Putting the lower crankcase back on
Every cylinder was honed
I don't think this is where that goes....
This was awesome to see... in MY engine!!
This snail will not be slow
With help from people like BuiltnBoosted, I found the port
With the oil pressure sender T'd off
And we were just positioning things to get an idea of where everything goes.. Head isn't attached yet.
With my RDFabs turbo intake mani just hanging on one nut for now
Me calling it a night
My best friend Daniel was happy too
My new lightened flywheel from Roofy, BIG weight difference.
Thanks everyone for you input. I will be going back in about two weeks. Hope to clean the block, and paint it.. SUGGESTIONS on color???
I wanna hear suggestions on colors for:
Piping (Charge piping)
Couplers (Charge piping)
Valve Cover
Head
Block
Tranny will match Block
Intake Mani
and anything else I should paint
My interior gauges are green.. I hope to hear a lot of suggestions.
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
F-in' gay!!!!!
Just make sure you use plenty of oil and assembly lube when you assemble it all. Keep us updated!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
whats so gay? lol and I have been
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
Looks great. Keep up the good work. Interested to see what kind of number you put down.
Glad its figured out! I personally like clean, simple engine bay color schemes... Maybe bring in the body color onto something and pick a color that accents but doesnt make the engine bay look too full. Black and yellow go together quite well, not sure what else you could do with yellow... Just take your time and make sure you have everything right. Also be sure to have some tuning lined up.
Did you already upgrade fuel pump?
This might as well be called "The .org's spare and leftover parts build" !!!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
