hit the local mustang dyno with the skwirl yesterday...

NOTE: if you're looking for psycho numbers, stop right there. I did this purely to check the health of the engine, and to see my powerband and what it looked like. I'm pleased with the results because it shined a light on a few problems with my tune and what not.

right click save as
Skwirl's dyno day

for your malice....

ehh, i was hoping for a better song

its a short, lame-ish video. thats why i didn't use the whole tune =P


better footage = better songs

Hey I couldn't help look at a orange glow coming from your left brakes, I'm not sure maybe the pads are rubbing to close to the rotor?

hmmm, im lost.

it didnt make anything after 6100?? i thought she pulled at least til 7000....

yea but its ok it gives me a good idea what to do next

i'm gonna see if i can upload the curve in a lil while...

So..Eco's pull 14's with 135HP?

I've seen your vids on youtube, man, I just thought your car had more HP.


----------------------------

doesn't take alot to go fast, specially with a base model

i got some ideas tho to make the car faster, believe me. this dyno session pointed out a lot of probs

Mustang dyno's suck anyway. I have a buddie with a gtp that put down 280wtrq, and 200 whp, with a 3.4 pulley, headers, rockers, intake, and hp tuner. The torque was pretty close to what it should have been, but the horsepower is no way correct. Stock gtp's put down around 190 -195 whp stock

Dang I really thought you would make more power, but does show room for improvement. Also shows how good of a driver you are.



FU Tuning

John Higgins wrote:Dang I really thought you would make more power, but does show room for improvement. Also shows how good of a driver you are.

definatly. it also shows us that with a good launch we can acomplish much better times. i must REALLY suck at driving, mine put down 151whp (2.4) and i couldnt even break 14's.

don't forget, weight plays a role as well

base models with decent power are formidable opponents in the 1/4

So, the Patriot head did very little for the N/A motor...

Admiral Jedi wrote:So, the Patriot head did very little for the N/A motor...

not nessisarily, i wanna see the power curve...

dyno numbers are for bragging rights, for bench racers..

using a dyno the right way ( what pj seems to be trying to do) will get your car set up to have real bragging rights and put it to use



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Admiral Jedi wrote:So, the Patriot head did very little for the N/A motor...

It shows that just putting a head on a motor without tuning is not going to add much.

PJ, you did not by chance make a pass with the stock tune did you?



FU Tuning

You're one good driver & I want that cluster.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't you already had this car's computer tuned?



>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----

Horsepower is just a number .


Hope you work everything out ...

Looks good PJ are you coming to the Jersey J meet coming up?




side note... JerseyKid i didnt know you lived around me judging from your sig lol exit 14B is mine

Already mentioned, but yes, I thought it would be closer to 165hp. Well, hail, hail to the base models! I will join you soon my base brother.

yea i did a basic street tune on the car but haven't spent much time with it otherwise

the pulls on the dyno weren't with tuning, just pulls for #s with AFR. I went to a cobaltss.net event at a local dyno shop TuneTime Performance

red is power
blue is torque
green is AFR



problems I noticed:
-AFR goes screwy @ 7000rpm VE table doesn't go higher than this. I assumed it repeated the final value over and over, but apparently I was wrong.
-torque drops below 100lbs-ft by 7000rpm
-power dips at 7000, but would be a flatter curve if AFR was better. note power rises again when AFR almost normalizes

conclusions/ plan of action:

-HPT is limited by our ecu's parameters. I'm looking into a stand alone solution and removing the ecu from fuel and spark calculations altogether. I thought I had a good understanding of what the ecu does when out of range on factory maps, but apparently my theories were wrong. This makes me wonder about my spark advance as well.

-my cams from LevelZero are actually a mild grind. very mild. I only have .394 and .392 worth of lift on the intake lobes. A bumpier cam with closer to .500 lift would make a lot more power.
-my exhaust sucks. I'm looking in to trying out a much better designed 4-2-1 header for the cobalt SS, and eliminating all unnecessary bends.
-my bottom end is tired... if you look on the first pull in the video, you can clearly see smoke coming out my PCV breather. My engine passed a recent compression check, but that doesn't mean all is well..

I also have a few ideas that the stand alone ecu would let me try that normally would be impossible. This may revolutionize which ecos we can use in the jbody. If my idea works out, any ecotec will be able to be swapped into the Jbody chassis.. in other words, the LE5 and the LSJ. straight up, as is. IF this ecu works that is...

a new short block with a few mods may be installed int he car very shortly. I have a forged crank and rods lying around.. all it needs is pistons. not to mention a balance-shaft delete kit that I STILL have not installed.

I may do one last modification marathon before the end of this season, and go for broke one more time before winter during record-breaking season (optimal weather conditions for nj between oct-dec).

This will be my last hurrah all-motor.

DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:y
I also have a few ideas that the stand alone ecu would let me try that normally would be impossible. This may revolutionize which ecos we can use in the jbody. If my idea works out, any ecotec will be able to be swapped into the Jbody chassis.. in other words, the LE5 and the LSJ. straight up, as is. IF this ecu works that is...

i would love you forever....

building a supercharged 2.4 eco is my dreeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaam




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DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:don't forget, weight plays a role as well

base models with decent power are formidable opponents in the 1/4

my 97z basically IS a base model-it didnt come with any options. it weighed in at 2800lbs with me in it.

Yeah, I think it just needs tuned. My Car put down 127whp and 141 ft/lb of torque with an intake and exhaust and it's an auto. These cars just crave boost. But it def tells how good of a driver you are. I'd be lucky to run in the 15's

Going off that dyno plot seems like a good shifting point would be somewhere in the 6500-6900 area. Even with better fuel tuning in the upper RPMS not sure if you can still be even with your max power (I do realize that if your spark advance is off as well that could affect it as well), but it could be the higher RPMS are not good power for a stock motor. Keep the RPMS in the power range and things could be better.



FU Tuning

Do you think the awesome 1/4 miles times have a lot to do with the fact that you can launch it at 4000+ rpm, hook up, and ease into your 6000+ rpm powerband? Like you said, the weight is a big factor, but being able to launch it hard (as a result of not having gobs and gobs of low end), lets you accomplish amazing times with seaminly little peak hp. As a driver, I'm sure you have tried many techniques, but its refreshing to show people that it doesnt take 200+ whp to break 14's or even 13's