My transmission seal has a slow leak i'm going to be getting fixed here soon. Not doing the work myself due to a lack of time, skill, or care to. To mention a few things about my '03 here, it is 5spd, the slave needed replaced the 5th day I had it last summer, and the master went out on me back in September. Pretty sick of the transmission issues with this thing. I have the common 1st gear fights and such, but the car drives very nicely. I daily drive it and my aim is always for good mpg. I do not plan to build this thing up for high horsepower numbers.

That being said, if they say my clutch looks a bit worn I will want to replace it with a stronger unit so there isn't any future worry. I bought it at 74k miles so I don't have a clue what it has been through on those previous miles. Should I get a Stage 1 clutch or should I go right for a stage 2 clutch? It won't ever be seeing 310 ft lbs of torque, but is the stage 2 a better option for strength, durability, comfort for daily driving, and possibly teaching a person how to drive a manual? My research has lead me to believe a stage 2 will be alright but it all depends on the brand of how firm it will be. I think with a clutch upgrade, getting a light weight aluminum flywheel and stage 2 clutch should result in smooth OEM feeling pedal feel?

Also I read that there are stainless braided clutch lines out there, if there is any for these cars out there should I grab one? I know braided stainless brake lines improve brake performance very well, they won't flex like rubber will. Worth it for the clutch?

Seems like Spec is the most popular choice, any other particular brands to look at? Budget friendly is preferred, but quality, strength, and good daily driving is most important. Just trying to have choices ready in case I want the clutch changed out.

Good clutches here?
clutchnet.com.



'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

Here's the thing about aluminum flywheels, they suck in traffic and on hot days. I have one in my car and I can't wait to get it out. Sometimes when the fan kicks on in traffic the car will stall out, or just when I push the clutch in and let the rpms drop too fast it does the same time. If you have the AC on, forget about. Not to mention that it really sucks trying to smoothly operate in high traffic situations. If you want it for the performance go for it but since this is your daily I don't suggest it.

The spec clutches, at least from my reading, have about as many complaints as they do compliments. In fact, most of our clutch options have at least a few complaints.

I really think stage 1 or stock replacement is the way to go for you. I've beaten the hell out of stuck clutches are they manage to survive quite well. When I bought my car it had an exedy stage 1 kit from ebay installed for about 10k miles. I've put 20k more rough miles on it with 250whp, 258tq and surprisingly it's hanging in there just fine. The feel is nice and smooth like stock and it's never slipped on me despite the stiff suspension, mounts, bridgestone tires, and tq I run through it.

I know I read somewhere that someone used an ld9 clutch disk from ACT that was a sprung 6 puck with the stock pressure plate/flywheel and they were very happy with it. Not 100% sure if that's still a possibility but if you're set on upgrading maybe you can look into that?

Whatever you do, make sure you use a gm part for the slave if you replace it. They're more expensive but the aftermarket ones are known to not hold up as well. You already know how much it sucks to replace the slave in these cars..



"In Oldskool we trust"

Never heard of that place, I've heard good things about ky clutch's, I think I would put in a stage 1 if I needed on. ky clutch I think the slave cylinder is made by the manufacture that makes GM's slave cylinders.


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Rick wrote:Never heard of that place, I've heard good things about ky clutch's, I think I would put in a stage 1 if I needed on. ky clutch I think the slave cylinder is made by the manufacture that makes GM's slave cylinders.

I was set on a ky clutch too but then mike had some complaints about his slipping like crazy.



"In Oldskool we trust"

I have a KY clutch on my LD9 and love it.

I would say go stage 2 if you have to do a clutch.



FU Tuning

Alright thanks for the replies. Still flipping back and forth on what route to go, sort of leaning to stage 1.

The dealer I bought my car from replaced the slave for free ( within 30 day dealer sale ) so I imagine it is not a GM part. Hopefully it is then. All has been good since June though.

I'll go with resurfaced flywheel over aluminum replacement now also.



'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

All tho i have no experience with a spec clutch in a jbody i did have a spec in my 99 z28. Put in at 60,000 and i totaled car at 231,000. Was still grabing as good as new and had that just right pedal feel. It was a spec2 btw


I Love My J ♡

DarrenWS6 wrote:
Seems like Spec is the most popular choice, any other particular brands to look at?

I drove a spec clutch in a Ecotec powered cavalier once. The engagement point was all over the place and never in the same spot twice. Total junk.

DarrenWS6 wrote:
Budget friendly is preferred, but quality, strength, and good daily driving is most important.

With that criteria, a stock replacement is what you need. I recommend a LUK brand stock replacement. I have had ran them before in my other cars without issues and they came highly recommended from a seasoned ASE Master Tech. I am over 100,000 miles on my 03 and close to half of them have been boosted. My stock clutch has held fine(even with the TVS) and i am not the only one to have good luck abusing the stock clutch.

I will agree a stock clutch will hold decent power. More than a N/A setup will give it.





FU Tuning

Alright thanks for your information guys.

So if I need a new one and don't ever plan to go 250+ lbs of torque, just stick with stock?

I just don't want anymore transmission BS with this car. And being that the engine needs pulled for the gasket repair I'm tempted to replace the clutch as I mentally think that's the next piece to go. I figured stage or 2 replacements would hold up to abuse better, like accidental start ups without taking it out of gear, and teaching someone to drive a manual. I especially don't want to replace it down the road and I will be averaging 25k miles a year on it.

What about a stainless clutch line, worth changing over to one? One available for our cars? Now and then my clutch squeaks a little, mostly when its cold. Goes away once the interior is warm. But there have been timesthe clutch pedal has hardened up some and went soft again. Right before my master went, it would seize up and then free itself after cooling off but once it got hot again it seized up.


'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

I also agree on LUK clutch as well. I put one in my civic (upped compression, cam, exhaust exc.) And i could be dead stopped put it in 4th bounce it off the 7500rpm rev limiter and dump it. The car would jut flat out die no sliping at all not a little bit at all. If your plans are not in the high power range i would say stay stock like a LUK.


I Love My J ♡

If I was replacing the clutch in a car like yours it would be a stage 2. Yes stock will do the job.

Also for the SS line. I know a couple people have done them. I believe they are somewhat custom, but info is posted on here about them. I do not think needed. Most people with 3 times your HP do not have them.

Also why are you pulling the motor?



FU Tuning

Addicted to meth wrote:If I was replacing the clutch in a car like yours it would be a stage 2. Yes stock will do the job.

Also for the SS line. I know a couple people have done them. I believe they are somewhat custom, but info is posted on here about them. I do not think needed. Most people with 3 times your HP do not have them.

Also why are you pulling the motor?

The dealership told me the engine needs pulled to replace the seal, and that these two items needed replaced if the trans became separated from the engine.. Its expected to be a $700 job, that is why I am going to a transmission shop this Monday to get another quote. Does this sound off to you? Judging by your reply I hope it is and I hope this won't be as expensive as I was quoted.




'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

Transmission shop ( well known for their work in the area ) said should be $490 if he doesn't need to pull the trans apart, worse case, $890 as I have already been quoted. In that event i'll be going for a Luk OEM replacement and resurfaced flywheel. Debating if I can do a LSD if they have it apart, will probably cost as much as the clutch or more just my guess.


'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

I'll get back to this in an hour when I get to work but I know someone selling a barely used team green insert. Shouldn't be too astronomical in cost.



"In Oldskool we trust"

Y3llowCav wrote:I'll get back to this in an hour when I get to work but I know someone selling a barely used team green insert. Shouldn't be too astronomical in cost.

Anxiously awaiting your reply!


'03 LS Sport 5spd, Amsoil fluids, Vibrant cat-back, 5% 3M color stable tint, Z24 trunk lid

Sorry haha. I told him to post here or hit you up. PM me your email address.



"In Oldskool we trust"