I have a 04 cavy 5 spd, about 40k miles ago the slave went out, I had replaced that. Now, My clutch sometimes feels soft untill I pump it, it has been that way the past month or so. But today, if I pump it or shift faster than just a normal shift, it will stick. Such as, if I push it in fast, it stops half way down, and I have to kind of pop it back up, and if i get off the clutch too fast, it will stay down. I looked and I didnt see any leaking around the resivoir or the the master. I could really use some help here, I dont want to have to take it to a shop if its something I can fix by myself.
Try bleeding the clutch. Also, is it feeling normal or excessively soft?
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Ok, so I attempted to bleed the clutch. I pumped it up, had someone hold it down, and I opened the bleeder vavle. it was like spitting air and fluid out for a half a second, then nothing but moderate drip. I then closed it, pumped it again, but as I pumped the clutch pedal, it got hard from the bottom up to the point where the pedal would not go down. So I opened the bleeder and the pedal hit the floor, and again fluid spit out for a half a second, and then nothing but a very light drip. So I then closed the valve and began to pump the clutch pedal again, but after 20 minutes of pumping, it still would have no pressure and it would stay on the floor untill you pulled it back to the top, and also there had been no clutch fluid lost from the reservoir, it was still between the recommended lines. Anybody got suggestions?
Sounds like your clutch master cylinder is shot.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Put a new master cylinder in it. It did the same thing.
I cannot get pressure built up, I have gone through 2 bottles of fluid, and still nothing. Any help?
no reason why you'd need to run 2 bottles for the clutch line other than you need a throwout/slave cylinder and or a Master while your at it.
Reverse bleed the clutch for starters. I had a similar problem, and it's that the way the slave and master are designed does not allow air to escape properly when bleeding. Air wants to naturally travel upwards, but our system pushes everything DOWN, and unlike the brake system on our cars, the bleeder is not at the end of the line, where all the fluid is forced to (slave cylinder/throw out bearing) it's only halfway in-between the master and slave. So when you try to bleed the clutch like the brake system, all you're doing is trapping air in the slave/throw out bearing (again because it's at the end of the line where all the pressure is) and you'll only be able to let out a little bit of air from the bleeder, but mostly fluid.
What you need to do is get a moderately large sized oil can that is equipped with a ball and spring pickup, and the right sized diameter tubing to connect to the bleeder screw. Fill the can with clutch fluid, open the bleeder screw and SLOWLY pump the fluid backwards through the system, which will cause your master to fill up, but also will aid in removing all the air trapped in the slave. Continue this process until the pedal is proper.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=473894&t=412097&p=7
Scroll down to my last post on that page fore more info/pics of the bleeding setup I used.
Hope that helps, good luck.
Just buy a mighty vac or pneumatic vacuum bleeder from harbor freight. They are amazing at bleeding clutch. The cost about $25.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Thanks for the tips, I will try them and post back.
