Any tips? I've been ripping on it, and can't get it to desperate. Using the haynes manual and says starter doesn't need to be removed, right?
I've honestly layed on the floor and kicked it trying to get it to separate, and i got it to move about a hair.
I don't know about the started on an Eco, But from much experience, Just look over it again, make sure you arent missing any bolts. And just wiggle and lift with your hoist till it slides out.
Typically, I will drop the entire subframe/tranny/engine and go from there.
If you are not getting any separation at all then you still have a bolt in.
FU Tuning
Take the starter off,and there is a bolt above the starter.you might have missed.
I guess I ended up missing one behind the part that holds the shift cables, didn't see it at all. It's out and ready to go now. Thanks!
idk about the eco's but LD9s have line up pins in the block that make separation a real bitch while in the car. but... its nothing a long flat blade screw driver or hell, even a tire iron cant solve.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
Arp's will ship out Monday. Ill post the install specs for the bolts tomorrow if I remember.
Post those when you can please! Loctite on the ARP's? or just oil and torque them?
And PM me your Paypal when you get a chance.
There is a tq setting for if you use arp moly. Or a certain weight oil. Ill grab it now.
Lightly coat the threads of the ARP flywheel bolts with 30weight motor oil. Then torque them in a cross.cross pattern to 85 ft/lbs.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
So no loctite on the ARP's?
No. ARP Moly Lube or 30weight engine oil, Per ARP's instructions.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Alright so 30w it is then!
Cool, thanks guys. Just waiting on the bolts
