did a search and called a shop to ask on a quote, i was quoted at $350 US and he said he would change some kinda gasket or washer or something while he was in there (forgot what it was) now the question is which to buy? i found a couple things searching but didnt get a really good idea on what the better and more reliable ones were to get, also is there anything else i should get done while they have the engine pulled thats not going to cost me a fortune?
cavs dont need torque converters.
if u want better shifts search a b&m shiftplus
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
TORONTO CAVALIER wrote:cavs dont need torque converters.
if u want better shifts search a b&m shiftplus
You might want to search and see what one does.
It will make you faster and is actually pretty cheap for the performance gain. faster shifts will do nothing for you so can-x on the bm shift plus
I have been in the TC business for awhile and I will tell you right now the following auction is your best and cheapest bet. Those are new units with torrington bearings, OEM style carbon ceramic lockup clutchs, and number 5 pumps/turbines which are furance brazed. They aren't ones that someone bent the blades on to restall it. I seen what goes into Yank's converters first hand and if you ordered an F body converter from them in the last five years I have probably touched it at some point.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8066087051&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT
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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...
I have a yank
.. Not in the car yet lol.. Rezlo also makes them for our cars.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Cool dave, i just ordered one, is there anything else im going to need when i bring this to the shop or will they have everything they need? (there a well known local tran shop that seemed like they new what i was going to do on the phone)
But is there any way to tell if those are the 3K converters?
Would hate to end up with a 2800 or 2500 one.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
'That is a 3000 stall unit. You don't need anything else. It comes with three new converter bolts.
The swap isn't too bad for most shops as you leave the engine in the car and just drop the trans. If this shop has done a couple it don't be a hard task for them.
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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...
You better hurry. Those converters are going fast. He started with 10 yetsrday morning and at the time I posted this he was down to 6.
Of course I helped!
I want to get that baby in! I know it will help the performance alot.
Ok, 3K,
Will check it out.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
I got mine in! Looks good, I'll let you know how good it is when I get it in, sometime in the next two weeks.
For those who didn't get one, sorry. I found out the next morning they were sold out. From the looks of it, if you see some one selling them on e-bay, it's probably one of these. I bet they wont sell it for what they were selling for!
All good.
Get that thing in and let us know.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
got mine other day looks great, my tran guy took my car to get it on the lift to make sure he wasnt gonna bump into any problems (more money) so he could give me an accurate price which finalized at what i thought was a very fair $300 getting it done end of next week i'll let you guys know how it runs, and a question should i use the B&M kit with the converter while on the strip like will they compliment each other or should i just scrap the the shiftkit?
You'll be fine with both.
Dang $300?
I'd have a tc on by now with that price.
May have to come out where you are.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
We'll as I'm typing this it's raining out and my transmission is hanging half out of my car, while in the middle of replacing my TC!
No rain for three weeks and now the summer afternoon showers want to start.
If you live in the Ocala Fl area, I could use some help, when the rain stops.
Hey its getting quiet out there as I type this! I might get this done!
A BIG THANKS goes out to Kinetic, I couldn't have finished it tonight without your help!
I have a few pics to post soon.
No flashing the converter or power braking for the first 150 miles. Thats a week for me.
what exactly does that mean jack? i read the install on it and it said no brake stalling for so many miles, and whats flashing the converter mean like a gm reflash?
Ack,
Just keep us posted.
Target torque break is anything above 2500 rpm.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
The shift kit won't help you much unless you suspect slipping. The trans will automatically adjust. It is firmer than you think but you can't feel it due to the looser converter.
Because of the converter, using the shift feel for judgement is very biased. If your car throws a code then look at playing with the shift firmness. You shouldn't run into that problem with this converter.
Break-in is an excellent idea. Not running the crap out of the car for awhile allows the clutch to wear a more even surface on the converter cover as well as reducing wear on the material. All converter covers are machine surfaced for the clutch and not polished due to cost and machine time.
Also break-in polishes the sprags and rollers in the bearings for smoother operation before you just lay on the hammer or leave it in 3rd.
300 is a pretty good price for install.
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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...
The
Yank Converters Installation Guide says not to do any WOT starts or brake stalling for the first 150 miles. Seeing as I drive 23 miles each way to and from work plus any regular drivng, I only need to do my regular rutine for a week and I should make that 150 miles no problem.
I going to try to make atleast the first couple of legs of the
HotRod PowerTour, where the first stop is at Gainesville Raceway, before I make a full run. I'll let you know my results, when I get back.
still havent figured out what brake stalling means, anyone?
Black Ops Ecotec wrote:I picked one of these up from Ebay recently and I am awaiting your review, MadJack. 
Well, first off the installation was a PITA!
You had be very mechanically inclined to do it your self. Even better have someone there to help. Ina RWD car I could have done it in about 4 hours. This one took almost 10 hours, but it was hot as H@[[!! and it rained in the middle of the swap! Gotta love Florida Summers!
Before my review, let me tell you this is purly subjective, no track testing has been done yet.
Under normal driving conditions, such as part throttle acceleration the rpms come up a little higher and quicker, which puts me closer to my powerband for my motor. This means, normal acceleration is slightly more brisk, it doesn't seem to bog so much on accelartion. The shifts seem to be a little more firm and the shift points are ever so slightly higher. While crusing, it behaves the same as before.
After four days of "normal" driving to and from work and a couple trips to the store, I'm well above the break in period. Last night, I decided to give her a moderate push, about 80-90% throttle, with a mderate brake stall. I brought the rpms to about 2300rpm (a full throttle launch was at about 2400rpm on the old TC, w/ a 2560 stall TC) and sliped off the brake. That thing took off faster than ever before! Where before I had a moderate bog at lauch, there was only a slight bog and she went! My shift points were up about 200 rpms, so I can use more of my power band. I still have more stall rpms to get into to see what she'll really do. I'm definitely excited about this thing.
Seat of the pants tells me it is good! I really want to get to the track now! The last time I went to the track was probably about the last of the mild temprature night till about October, so that will probably slow my times down the next time, but I know my E.T.s will be faster. By how much, I can't wait to find out. I should be going to the track again in about a week to 10 days.
This was more than worth the what I paid for it and the PITA day to install it. It will be worth the cost of it and the installation, as long as it works within you power band.
Sorry, I haven't downloaded my pics yet, but I'll get to them soon!
HondaRapist wrote:still havent figured out what brake stalling means, anyone?
Sorry about that! Brake Stalling is when you use your left foot to hold the brakes firmly and use your right foot to bring your rpms up to a predetermined amount to get the motor into it's power band for launching the car off the line, as in drag racing. The stall speed of you torque converter will limit how high that rpm is, before it over powers your brakes.
For a more thorough explanation,
read this, by Yank Converters. That will explain allot about what the TC does. Brake Stalling is on the bottom of the third page.
I'm glad you are enjoying it MadJack. If I still lived in Florida I would have helped. I helped a friend put one in his 2000 Tahoe and I don't even think it took 3 hours. FWD is a different world isn't it?
Everyone that has installed one has LOVED it. Once you drive a car with a high stall in it you don't go back!!
The best part of that converter is it is totally new. Everything down to the bearings. It will hold up to a modded GTP so you don't have to worry about it failing.
I used to have an 02 Ecotec with that converter in it and it would pop up to 3000 and run like a SOB! After 40K miles of running that converter I didn't have one single problem. The current owner loves the car.
If you wouldn't mind posting times and pics that would be neat.
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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...
