well i fitted a new clutch and slave today, the old one that came off matched the sizes of the new one installed. i made sure the flat side of the friction discs is backed to the flywheel. so all is installed right. but when i go to bleed the clutch i have no pedal and there isn't any air coming out of the bleeder, and yes the flow of fluid coming out the bleeder seems fine. i've been doing this for at least 2hrs and still no pedal. the clutch won't disengage...i do get a slight pressure at times in the pedal but not much...all help is great
The first couple of pumps you may need to pull the clutch pedal up. But after 1 or 2 times, it should pop up on its own.
Press the clutch to the floor, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal and repeat. It really helps to have someone in the car to do the pedal while you mess with the bleeder.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
thats what i have been pretty much doing, with someone holding and i release pressing. yet the pedal stays stuck to the floor every time i open the bleeder then close, pedal stays stuck down. you need to pull it up.i'm doing this at work and none of the other tech's can even figure this thing out, just doesn't make any sense. i'm prob going to let it settle over night and come back in the morning...hopefully it'll think about it and it'll start woking on its own.
Your throw out bearing isn't blown is it?
Josh
SLK 32
Your throw out bearing isn't blown is it?
Josh
SLK 32
i dont know if it makes any difference but when u get a new throw out bearing it has the 2 lil plastic strips on it to hold something together mine tranny wasdone by the dealership and i was back there watching and they damn near forgot to take off the tabs off the throw out bearing.. lol luckily i seen it i dont know if it makes any difference but it seems like a easy thing to forget i dont even know if it would matter about the pedal
um....you are not supposed to remove those plastic tabs. It says so in bold, all capital letters on the instructions. Damage to the bearing could occur if you do. Those tabs keep everything aligned. The first time you press in the clutch, they release and fall off.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
Brown eye wrote:Quote:
Slave won't bleed...PLEASE HELP!!!
get a bigger whip!
lol..yah for real..ne-waz thanx guys but i figured it out today. i noticed that my clutch pedal was loosing pressure, yesturday i couldn't feel this. so i changed the master cylinder hoping for a cure. i had now amazing pressure and a even smoother feel..hehe yet the disc wouldn't disengage..soo i said f*ck it..maybe its just jammed..i pulled the hand brake slap'd it in reverse and started the car, course she wanted to go back but i pressed the brakes..after about 3 full rotations she squealled like a hore' and was free'd...WOO-HOO WE HAVE DISENGAGMENT!!..so yah i don't know if the master cyl helped or even was half the cure but the finial diagnosic was that the disc was jammed
lol thats weird.. dealership took them off no problems yet i would imagine if i dont hav any yet i wont have any?
Brandon Schmidt wrote:lol thats weird.. dealership took them off no problems yet i would imagine if i dont hav any yet i wont have any?
its just if you take them off you can chance damaging the seal, but put it this way if they didn't take the plastics straps off and the bearing wasn't able to break them..do you really think that the bearing is going to have enough pressure to push the pressure plate
