These four pictures are just some rough pictures from every angle. The font valance was cut out for no real reason (didn't originally plan on setting up the intercooler this way.) I have a plastic welder and that will be going back together. The hood clears the radiator but not the charge pipe up top or the idle air controller. I'll be cowling the hood today to make up for that.




These two picture are the turbo area. I had to make my own bracket to hold the wastegate because the stock one bolted to the SIDE of the compressor and I couldn't use it with the turbo clocked. I am leaving for Exploited Racing before Wednesday for a custom stainless turbo header as well so the whole manifold is being replaced this week for something better. I have a 40mm HKS external wastegate going on with it. We are also moving the turbo further down and to the left to shoot the turbo outlet directly into the intercooler.


These are just shot around the engine bay. The bracket welded to the strut tower holds the nitrous solenoid and fuel pressure sending unit. Both solenoids are hooked up on the feed side but not yet on the out. You'll also notice a little orange wire jumping that unplugged gray harness. That harness went to the automatic transmission and activated when in park or nutral, allowing you to start the car. There were other wires as well but I just crossed these wires to start it. I will be adding a clutch switch to wire this through. You can also see the boost gauge line routed through the car and the new idle air controller wired up (which is now propperly sealed and wrapped.) All of the red wire loom is around aftermarket ignition wiring and the orange wire is going to the new O2 sensor and I am going to hide that better today.




I made a short throw shifter by lengthen the bottom and shortenning the top of the shifting arm. I kept it the stock height because I liked where it sat, but the throw is about 3" shorter than normal. You can also see the AEM wideband in the picture. I am building a fiberglass center console holding my boost, fuel pressure and nitrous pressure gauges.


Here you can see the massive 3.5" in K+N cone filter from a turbo diesel truck as well as the temporary downpipe and the oil return line. The oil return is 1" diameter. It started to kind a little so for the first few miles I am running a hose clamp around the center so that it can mold that way by heat. I can always shorten the pipe it bolts around by about 1/2" if it doesn't keep from kinking.



A better shot of the blow-off vale plumbing and the nitrous solenoid set-up. I am not going to spray on the engine until I upgrade the fuel pump. I am running only 10psi until then as well but I've got pretty much all of the safety precautions covered when it is ready to boost higher. The nitrous system is a direct port set-up with a progressive controller. 50hp should so it for now.. maybe 75 in the future.


Hope you enjoy!



Cardomain|Myspace

Damn...you do great work.

Can't wait till we do mine



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

thats cute, i should turbo my sunbord beater.

absolutely awesome!


http://www.cardomain.com/id/StylezTA

Cool man, you work pretty fast.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Looks fun.

I'd suggest getting rid of those open screw hose clamps immediately though. Over time, they'll rip into the couplers and destroy them. Replace them with either lined hose clamps that don't expose the screw pattern to the bare silicon or purchase a whole set of t-clamps that properly clamp down with even force and a solid band of metal.




I will NEVER change my sig. HTML 4 EVA!!
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">

Nice downpipe flange, lol!


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

Haha, the downpipe flange is extremely temporary!
I am no machinist. Can you tell?
I only had to mock something up to get the exhaust under the car (mostly) so that I could take it to the Exploited shop where we are makinga stainless equal length turbo header and a full 3" downpipe. The rest of the exhaust I can take care of.

The worm clamps are temporary as well. I ordered T-bolts.. they just didn't come yet so I pieced everything together with worm clamps to get to wisconsin and back.



Cardomain|Myspace

- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

You accomplished alot and did alot of work so far. Its looking great and its gonna run so mean when its all done. Good luck with the rest.



Blown.

So is it fired up running and driving now? Wow great work and looks great. Go ride with the top down, even if its cold. Do you mind me asking how much you picked the car up for, I thought I remember someone getting one for lilke 400$, was it you? Car appears to be in good shape.



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible

Is that turbo water cooled ????

What boost you going to run ?????

is that motor fully built ?????

Wow...... Nice work ........
you even used red zip ties..... WOOT ........

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

You're lucky you mentioned the worm gear clamps are temporary! But you're unlucky that you told us you already ordered some T-bolts... I was gonna order you some! No need for worm gears on such a nice setup. Good luck man. Looks good!

looks great. make sure you get some good pics of the new mani and downpipe