quick question are these for our cars?
and do they work as well as they are supposed to?
are they worth the money?
can you just plug it in and start tuning?
thanks in advance guys.
.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
hey man, its not as easy as plugging it in and going. It requires an OBD1 style ECU connector. They work as well as any other standalone (holley, etc) IMO it was worth the money I paid.
I am in the midst of installing my haltech into the car to run on the stock engine, and am just getting some long needed answers from someone who's experienced with them.
you will have to make your own engine harness, but its really not all that bad. IM me later on and I can fill you in.
If you're looking for help with Haltech products in addition to stevefire's information, you can try emailing my friend (get his email from his profile). His name is Lee Lemoine and his location is Woonsocket, Rhode Island. He's a certified Haltech tech. and he'll be able to help you out. From what I hear, they're a great system and a solid piece of equipment.
link to profile
Blown.
hey thanks filip, that might actually come in handy for me too
cheers!
I forgot to mention, if neither of you can get in touch with him, let me know and I'll get him for you.
Blown.
John H [Cavalierkid wrote:]listening
John, if you have any questions about the Haltech unit, please let me know and I'll find out what I can for you. Shoot either him or myself an email and we'll get back to you with as much info as we have.
Blown.
u got msn messenger?
big_worm187@hotmail.com.
i spent awhile on haltechs site. kinda curious how much of a "plug in play" it is with the gm delco computers. or if theres alot of rewiring/new sensors like a tec 3 or megasquirt.
No, sorry, I don't have MSN messenger, I only have AIM. You can get in touch with my friend or myself via e-mail if you like. As for plug-n-play, I can't say too much simply because he used it in an engine swap so he had alot of work to do on the electrical systems. He'll be able to answer that question better than I can.
Blown.
one thing i noticed, you have to have an obd1 computer?
As far as I know, he's only used the Haltech for OBD-I, pretty sure. But that doesn't mean the Haltech units can't be used with OBD-II computers.
I know I'm not much help, he only explained a couple things to me while we were working on a car.
Blown.
how hard was the install if he didnt have rewiring to do wiht the engine swap? did it come with a base map or anything to run? how hard was it to set it up to run larger injectors?
Well for him he made it seem quite simple, but that's because he knows his way around the system. It seems like the wiring is like a Megasquirt since it is a similar system. I don't think it came with a base map because he had to create all the maps himself. If all you'd like to do is run larger injectors then this may be 'overkill' in my opinion. A Haltech unit is like Megasquirt, you splice it into the wiring system to control the entire engine. I'm not one to purchase a system like this for larger injectors when an FPR/FMU would do the job.
Blown.
yeah but a fmu only works for so much... i wouldnt feel safe using an fmu to run 20+ psi
Ah, I didn't know you were running such high boost. Tell you what, I'll try and convince him to come back to the Org and take a look at this thread. He left a while ago and since then hasn't been back on a regular basis.He's working tonight but I'll try and get him to look at it over the next couple of days. Keep an eye on this thread.
Blown.
that would kick ass. thanks man.
No problem, bro, I'm glad to help.
Blown.
To answer all your questions....
Yes, they're for any car with which has a current fuel injection system on it, or which your looking to retrofit fuel injection into (say, an old chevelle)... Anyways, you really need to know is that this unit will do ignition and fuel injection (some systems only do fuel, or ignition, not both)... and is completely programmable. Are you planning to turbocharge / supercharge? Are you planning on raising / lowering compression, goign with wild cams? It can compensate.
The downside of this is that if you don't know what your doing (or, in my case... do know what your doing, and accidentally enable a table that you shouldn't have at 6,000 rpm at 14 psi of boost).... it is possible to destroy your motor. Very fast. and very precisely.
If your needing any help during your install, let me know.. or if you need any more info let me know.
-=[2004 JBody Bash - '82-'94 Street Modified - Third Place]=-
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/
[TZ3] 1994 Cavalier Z24 Convertible, Automatic, (Boost around the bend)
[TZ2] 1993 3.1 Liter V6 Intercooled TurboChevrolet Cavalier Z24 Convertible 5 speed
:: REST IN PIECES :: (Parts available, PM me!)
1994 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon 5sp/EJ22 - Daily Driver
N3LEE - Amateur Radio
could u give details on the install/ creating a base map? im currently boosted running 14psi through a 16g. i have .020 over wiseco pistons with a 8.9:1 compression waiting to be installed. i need something that will controll a larger injector and give me a safe a/f accross the band. (not rich and lean like a fmu). i would also like to bump the redline up to about 7k since the valvetrain and rest of the engine will be ment for it. another major concern is elimating phantom knock.
any details/pictures of your install and process/exerpies would be appreciated.
also, could u please elaberate on what u mean by "accidentally enable a table that you shouldn't have at 6,000 rpm at 14 psi of boost"
Well, here's the deal...
Creating base maps can be a rather tricky ordeal, especially when a large turbo and after headwork / compression drops. Creating tables is simple, and getting one that 'runs' your car enough to move it is tricky enough, let alone one that emulates something that you'd want to drive every day. Having access to a dynomometer is invaluable, because tuning on the road left me with holes in my forged pistons. Be aware
Anyways, as far as tuning for timing... you'd want to slope the table out. IE: 20 degrees of timing at no load, 12 at "absolute" pressure, and then retard the timing .5 degree per 1 psi boost all the way to redline is usually a good guideline for intercooled turbo motors. (more retard for less intercooling to prevent knock)
For example... Usually you start the left side of your tables with a fair amount (ie: 20 deg plus) of timing at the 1000 rpm table... then at the 1500 you'd use slightly less... say.. 18... then 2000 you'd drop the timing down to 15 (if your base timing is 10 degrees that is -- most GM's are)
Anyways. we're talking about the maximum load bar on the vaccum side of things... If you've never looked at the software, usually it goes left to right from left being the most vaccum, to center (absolute atmospheric pressure) then to the right is your boost...
You can program whatever red line you'd like. Also weather your fuel cut is a spark or fuel cut.
Your ECM will average the tables out to make it nice and 'smooth' between tables. For instance, at 1600 rpm your car uses 90% of the value of the 1500 rpm table, and 10% of the value of the 2000 rpm table, to come up with a final 'value'... (same for both fuel and ignition)...
I melted my pistons by accidentally enabling a 6000 rpm table on my ECM. I only mapped fuel through 5500 rpm, so when i got to about 5800 rpm, it had already begun to lean out the motor, and by the time the O2 caught 'wind' of it, the car was slowing down and it was too late.
-- Lee
BTW: it does support closed loop mode if you wish to let it 'adjust' automatically under cruise conditions.
-=[2004 JBody Bash - '82-'94 Street Modified - Third Place]=-
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/
[TZ3] 1994 Cavalier Z24 Convertible, Automatic, (Boost around the bend)
[TZ2] 1993 3.1 Liter V6 Intercooled TurboChevrolet Cavalier Z24 Convertible 5 speed
:: REST IN PIECES :: (Parts available, PM me!)
1994 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon 5sp/EJ22 - Daily Driver
N3LEE - Amateur Radio
and i've got a few pics of my haltech install (mines the E6GM, older model) on my website listed in my sig... check out the gallery.
-=[2004 JBody Bash - '82-'94 Street Modified - Third Place]=-
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/
[TZ3] 1994 Cavalier Z24 Convertible, Automatic, (Boost around the bend)
[TZ2] 1993 3.1 Liter V6 Intercooled TurboChevrolet Cavalier Z24 Convertible 5 speed
:: REST IN PIECES :: (Parts available, PM me!)
1994 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon 5sp/EJ22 - Daily Driver
N3LEE - Amateur Radio
are we obligated to use a second water temp sensor for the haltech, or is it possible to splice into the factory sensor?
also, the new Haltech Wideband Controller, is it compatible with the E6GMX? Do you have to create a general mapping of the extra load (say you're tuned for 10 psi and turn it up to 12psi) when you use the controller? As I understand it, the controller can adjust fuel +/- 20%?
I emailed speedmachineperformance and they haven't gotten back to me (that is where I got my E6GMX from)
in terms of factory ignition timing, is it the same advance throughout the entire rpm range? If not, what is factory spark advance? I'd like to get my stock engine running on the haltech before I throw in the new motor, just so I dont have to fiddle with the engines initial 'start up' and 'run in'
I would like to buy the haltech wideband controller right away, do you have any contacts you'd recommend I go through?
thanks for your help!
I never really tried to use the O2 functionality in my engine, due to problems with exhaust manifold warpage and having leaks. What's supposed to happen is you can setup 3 different 'points' in the RPM table and have different sampling and correction intervals (response time) for your o2 setup. The Wideband controller simply takes a WB02 and has two outputs, one for the display unit they have (rich/lean meter) and the other is a narrowband simulator which you can put on the O2 sensor wire in your haltech for datalogging / tuning purposes.
As far as your 'adding boost'. As long as you've got at least a 2 BAR map sensor installed, you should have the full table mapped for boost. IE: "0" to "15" psi should have all values defined. The reason for this is because somehow if you got compressor surge or other sorts of boost surge, you'd simply melt the pistons because it would lean the mixture out as soon as the mixture got rich enough
Base tuning is really tough to figure out, my car was OBD1 and i was able to find a program that i could edit the PROM chip on, so i converted all the values for the Mclaren engine back to numeric values, then wrote down all three points on the table, and averaged them out to make the points connect (linearize is what haltech calls it)
Spark advance is generally 15-20 degrees above base under light load, and slowly falls off towards "zero" (atmospheric). Boost is genearlly 6 degrees or so above base timing (which on most gm's is 10 or 12 degrees) and is retarded at the rate of .5 degree per psi. You can add more timing until you start to get knock. just add a half degree at a time and keep an ear out.
Haltech doesn't have an option for a knock sensor.... so ALWAYS be listening.
-=[2004 JBody Bash - '82-'94 Street Modified - Third Place]=-
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/
[TZ3] 1994 Cavalier Z24 Convertible, Automatic, (Boost around the bend)
[TZ2] 1993 3.1 Liter V6 Intercooled TurboChevrolet Cavalier Z24 Convertible 5 speed
:: REST IN PIECES :: (Parts available, PM me!)
1994 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon 5sp/EJ22 - Daily Driver
N3LEE - Amateur Radio
really appreciate your feedback on all of this.
Who would you recommend I go through for the Haltech Wideband Controller? I want a quick response from whom Im buying from as this money's burning a wideband hole in my pocket
cheers!
