I'm trying to purchase the downpipe flange. Now, I want to do a 3" downpipe but it seems like I can mostly find flanges that have a 2 1/2" center hole. Can a 3" downpipe still be created with a 2 1/2" center hole downpipe flange? If so, do you guys know any places that sell a 3" center hole flange besides ATP Turbo?
FYI, I'm running an external wastegate.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Adam are you keeping your exhaust you have now?
Or are you upgrading it?
Ad1kTed 2 SpE3d wrote:Adam are you keeping your exhaust you have now?
Or are you upgrading it?
I'm doing an 3" downpipe and in the near future I'm doing an exhaust dump but I atleast wanted to do an 3" downpipe.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
you can deffinately put a 3" downpipe on it. You may need to do some pretty fancy welding work around where it meets the flange because the 3" pipe WILL obstruct the mounting holes. You can ding the pipe in or something. I have a good idea how to do it with my 6 bolt nissan flange. I will show you when I do it.
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What's wrong with buying from ATP Turbo? Their flanges should solve your problem.
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Mr. Pute wrote:What's wrong with buying from ATP Turbo? Their flanges should solve your problem.
I was just checking my options. If I can find a flange that's the same quality but cheaper in price than ATP, I wanted to know about it.
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Good luck. There's honestly no comparison to ATP's stuff. Very high quality company with very high quality products.
Keep this in mind. With such a big DP, going any thinner of a flange will cause it to warp when you're welding. There's so little amount of metal around the lower three bolt holes that this will happen. I'm not saying you'll sacrifice thickness for a lower price but you might consider it if you're looking for a cheaper flange.
Then again, grow a pair! It's only $28.00. hehe
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Mr. Pute wrote:Good luck. There's honestly no comparison to ATP's stuff. Very high quality company with very high quality products.
Keep this in mind. With such a big DP, going any thinner of a flange will cause it to warp when you're welding. There's so little amount of metal around the lower three bolt holes that this will happen. I'm not saying you'll sacrifice thickness for a lower price but you might consider it if you're looking for a cheaper flange.
Then again, grow a pair! It's only $28.00. hehe
I know it's not that much but a good shopper finds all his options and makes the smart decision on quality vs. price. I know ATPs a very reliable company and makes great products so overall I don't mind spending the extra couple bucks to buy this. Like I said...I was just weighing my options.
Other than that, thank you for the help.
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Not a problem. I've told you before, I LOVE your car. Looks wicked cool and it will have gone that extra mile once you boost it. Best of luck.
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like ive said hes just cheap
lol
The one, the only, ME.
i went with atp's vband flange, works like a charm and makes life easy.
I don't understand why an ATP flange would be better than another company's flange made of the same metal and the same thickness cut from a CNC machine....?
I didn't even warp a 1/4" flange that I am using temporarilly while I wait for my turbo header to get finished. All you need is an experienced welder willing to take the time and you will be fine with any thickness in metal. Please do go at least 3/8" though.
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M I N I O N - Sinbird wrote:I don't understand why an ATP flange would be better than another company's flange made of the same metal and the same thickness cut from a CNC machine....?
Show me another company that makes the V-band adapter shown above, this beautiful internal v-band wastegate,
or this 3" 5-bolt flange that NJHK needs:
Most places buy from ATP instead of milling their own stuff. I've seen the same 3" 5-bolt flange on numerous sites for $5-$7 more due to the fact that they purchase from ATP.
I'm plugging ATP because they've been great to me. They've fixed screw-ups on their behalf by providing me with free stuff, they have amazing technicians on hand to deal with any forced induction question you want to throw at them (with respect to individual products such as a type of Garrett turbocharger and the like), they provide super fast shipping on parts (CA to MI is a long haul), and they're more than willing to take back stuff that you don't need without hassle or restocking fee.
Oh and, you ALWAYS get what you pay for.....
M I N I O N - Sinbird wrote:I didn't even warp a 1/4" flange that I am using temporarilly while I wait for my turbo header to get finished.
You probably did and just bolted it down anyway, causing the thin flange to take regular shape. If you didn't warp it, then there's a good chance you didn't penetrate the flange well enough and the weld will eventually fall apart under enough heat cycles and stress. No matter since you've already said it's a temp flange.
3/8" is good for most flanges. However, NJHK is looking to purchase a 3" DP flange for his turbo. Using 3/8" along the edge of the flange that has the DP on it will not be sufficient enough to prevent warping of the flange since the metal is so thin around the circumference of the DP with respect to the three lower bolt holes. This is why ATP uses 1/2" on that flange in peticular. They probably use 1/2" on all of the other flanges because that's the bare minimum for the flange we are talking about in peticular
I'm just going off of what I learned in my own welding classes and experiences. Please don't take offense to what I'm saying. Refute it if you want. I'll definitely listen.
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Mr. Pute wrote:Not a problem. I've told you before, I LOVE your car. Looks wicked cool and it will have gone that extra mile once you boost it. Best of luck.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
BTW, you should see when I'm done with the paint job
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
those V-band adapters are very cool and I bet they are well worth the money. I was just talking about flanges though. I hadn't seen Adam mention a V-band anywhere so I assumed everyone else was talking about just flanges as well.
The downpipe I did was definitely penetrated though. I cut the hole for the pipe and stuck it in all the way down, tacked it on the top of the flange and then tacked on the underside as well, then welded the whole flange.. I did it slowly and let sections cool. Most of my welding is done on thin body panels where warpage is catastrophic so I take my time.
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