alright, i have everything mounted to the car. yes its the crappy 97 ohv. Anyways havin trouble with the oil lines. turbo is smoking, getting way to much oil. looking for a final fix. any1 know where i can get a feed line, and return + some restricters. or some help on what to do make my own or whatever mainly looking for some idea's. or any1 that can make them for me.

thanks
Emry

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

well what type of oil are you using ??? your regular 5-30 won 't do turbo in our cars.....

you need 5-50 ...... syn......

as far as oil feed from the back of the head from the oil sending using...... tee off of it .... and use a 3-an line ........get an oil restrictor.... and make sure your return is at least 1" THICK I.D........

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

Quote:

your regular 5-30 won 't do turbo in our cars.....

wtf are you talking about?

i do run 5-50 oil syntec. call me and idiot if you want, but whats a 3-an line? im not using the oil sending, i took a plug out of the orfice, that plugs like directly above the oil filter. does any one on here sell lines and restrictors on here, or know where i can find them?

really this is the only thing thats setting me back, ive lost my license for 2 months and trying to get this done, times running out fast. any1 with any info please post. thanks

Emry

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

Excidium wrote:wtf are you talking about?

dude my buddy ran 5-30 in his car the first start up and it smoked like a bitch we drove it around and then realized we needed 5-50 so went got it and did a engine flush and oil change and the car INSTANTLY stopped smoking....................

5-50 is better in my opinion for a cavalier that isn't turbo stock that becomes turbo

it fixed my oil smoking problem

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

anyways lol. still where could i get lines? or who makes them? is every1 taped out of the oil sending? cuz i tapped in right above the oil filter where those 2 plugs are. just trying to get an opinion and some help trying to find this stuff out.

emry

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

ya out of the oil sender............ do it there.... never heard of people doing from the plugs hmmmm

is that on the head or on the block ??

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

its on the block, its hard to see in the 2200 because of the throttle body. somtime when ur undernieth ur car reach ur hand right above ur oil filter ull feel one, there easily takin out with a 3/8's bit, or just the ratchet head.

Since i didnt buy a kit i really need oil lines and one run a custom kit and know where to get them? i work at oreilly auto parts, and can crimp or make and hydrolic lines i want, but id still need the restricors. I was hoping to find some premade lines for cheap. guess not

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

Quote:

5-50 is better in my opinion for a cavalier that isn't turbo stock that becomes turbo

My opinion is that stock oil weight should be used always. The engine is designed with these things in mind and you can't just go switching it around too much. My car also smoked when I first started it up -- that was because the oil pressure was reaching over 70 psi, as it tends to do cold. A feed line restrictor has since solved that problem...

As far as feed lines, you should hit up lowes/home depot and get yourself a nice collection of brass fittings. Talk to any turbo nut and he'll tell you some stories about brass or aluminum fittings. I'm personally using a globe valve designed for compressed air. I half expected the rubber seal to deteriorate a long time ago, but it hasn't and has served its purpose flawlessly thus far. What you really want is a needle valve which can be had just about anyway that sells fittings. If you search enough I'm sure you'll find some pictures of some brass setups. Don't forget high quality teflon tape, and wrap it the correct way or try teflon based paste.

Excidium wrote:

Quote:

5-50 is better in my opinion for a cavalier that isn't turbo stock that becomes turbo

My opinion is that stock oil weight should be used always. The engine is designed with these things in mind and you can't just go switching it around too much. My car also smoked when I first started it up -- that was because the oil pressure was reaching over 70 psi, as it tends to do cold. A feed line restrictor has since solved that problem...

As far as feed lines, you should hit up lowes/home depot and get yourself a nice collection of brass fittings. Talk to any turbo nut and he'll tell you some stories about brass or aluminum fittings. I'm personally using a globe valve designed for compressed air. I half expected the rubber seal to deteriorate a long time ago, but it hasn't and has served its purpose flawlessly thus far. What you really want is a needle valve which can be had just about anyway that sells fittings. If you search enough I'm sure you'll find some pictures of some brass setups. Don't forget high quality teflon tape, and wrap it the correct way or try teflon based paste.

stock oil weight yes, but DEFINITELY synthetic. I only run Mobil 1. And yes definitely teflon tape / locktite. We've had sealing problems with the oil lines and fittings on our turbo civic sedan since day 1




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Quote:

but DEFINITELY synthetic

Hey bud, I enjoy my 2000 mile oil change interval...

I've had zero oil leak problems *knocks on wood* using teflon paste for all the oil connections. I redid them 3-4 times as well to make sure they were all perfect and such too.

Excidium wrote:

Quote:

but DEFINITELY synthetic

Hey bud, I enjoy my 2000 mile oil change interval...

I've had zero oil leak problems *knocks on wood* using teflon paste for all the oil connections. I redid them 3-4 times as well to make sure they were all perfect and such too.

I'm hoping that mine go just fine, which is why I'm picking up an extra oil pan... because I want it done right and I might also do some baffling work on it as well.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Quote:

because I want it done right and I might also do some baffling work on it as well.

Spoken like a true enthusiast. Definitely a good idea to use extra care on the oil pan too. I still remember being broke and tapping the threads like I was working for nasa, praying I didn't fuxor em all up.

Absolutely. One screw up and it's off to buy another oil pan. For a 300 hp motor (shhhhhhh ) I won't trust JB Welding a mistake.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Do most of you guys tap the pan? I found it to be much more direct and shorter to use the oil dipstick tube with a 5/8 heater core nipple welded to it on the 2.2ohc. not to mention how much eisier it is to take apart. Cuz u know we take em apart all the time, or is that just me And if you want the oil in line cheap you can use those braided lines from auto meter that are used in oil pressure guages along with some earls fittings.

If that's what you'd prefer to do, cool, but I like to make sure my stuff is done right.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

so basically the size of my feed line needs to be about the size of and oil pressure guage line? if this is true then ill make somthin that'll work out of the hydrolic stuff at the parts store.
somtimes i think it would of been easier just to buy a kit, but its been so much cheaper getting stuff as they come along at the right prices. ill post some pics up soon.

Im just trying to figure this oil feed thing out, im mainly looking for what size of hose/line i need to run. the return is already to go. I just need some more information about the feed line what size, and has everyone here just tapped into the oil sending? thanks for the feedback on this stuff.

Emry

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

Yeah I know what you are talking about with the plug in the block. It is an oil gallery plug. They have to drill the block for the oil passages so they just put a plug in it when they are done. Anyways, that is where I took my oil feed line from. Also put my oil pressure gauge sending unit there. Works just fine.

But, I would like to know where I could find that 3an restrictor that everyone is talking about.



Boosted 97 2.2L 5 Speed
Boosted 3.4L soon to come

Austin Emry wrote:alright, i have everything mounted to the car. yes its the crappy 97 ohv. Anyways havin trouble with the oil lines. turbo is smoking, getting way to much oil. looking for a final fix. any1 know where i can get a feed line, and return + some restricters. or some help on what to do make my own or whatever mainly looking for some idea's. or any1 that can make them for me.

thanks
Emry

Click -> 1/8" NPT - Oil Inlet Restrictor from ATPTurbo.com (0.060" hole)

Cool. Thanks for the info. Maybe that will help with the smoking problem.



Boosted 97 2.2L 5 Speed
Boosted 3.4L soon to come

Non-adjustability is poo poo. Use a regular garden variety brass needle valve and an oil pressure gauge, can't go wrong.

Emry wrote:so basically the size of my feed line needs to be about the size of and oil pressure guage line? if this is true then ill make somthin that'll work out of the hydrolic stuff at the parts store.
somtimes i think it would of been easier just to buy a kit, but its been so much cheaper getting stuff as they come along at the right prices. ill post some pics up soon.

Im just trying to figure this oil feed thing out, im mainly looking for what size of hose/line i need to run. the return is already to go. I just need some more information about the feed line what size, and has everyone here just tapped into the oil sending? thanks for the feedback on this stuff.

Emry

Id use -3an line. And i think i saw a post from you asking what that unit of measure actually meant. an stands for army navy. They call them an fittings or army navy fittings. the number in front of it is like this. 3an=3/16" 4an=1/4" 5an=5/16 and so on. I have a cavalier ecotec turbo and the 3an line does need an oil restrictor in it so the turbo inlet seal does not leak. custom kit is the way to go. i would think about taking oil from the block but its up to you. Im not sure if you have access to a galley plug but i would seriously thinking about taking oil from a point were other oil is not in need. But good luck with your kit and hold on tight for boost.



*2012 mazdaspeed3*

thanks respooled. you helped a lot. basically at work yesterday i played around with the hyrolic fitting machine. I put a 1/8" nylon tube through a smaller hydrolic hose, with steel reinforcemnt, heavy duty i know but it was free scrap, then i crimped steel braid on it, looks semi profesional. Im pretty sure it will work, I installed it last night. Since i used 1/8" line im going to try it with out the restrictor. If i have problems i will definately buy one. hope it works, really thanks for all the help everyone.

Now off the topic, today i come home and my moms boyfriend said "hey I think I ruined your radiator" i walk outside side and where i had my intercooler leaning up against the wall, he got it wil his is truck...he was right, it was ruined. so if anyone has some old intercooler they want to get rid off let me know, i just need a small one, mainly with the inlets on the same side. hopefully everyones still active in this post.

thanks
Emry

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

hey go on ebay check out this link i dont know how much your looking to spend but this intercooler should do you fine.

Intercooler 28x7x2.5

31x6x2.75

I know these will both fit i have a 34x10.5x3.5 these will be great for any application.



*2012 mazdaspeed3*

Excidium wrote:Non-adjustability is poo poo. Use a regular garden variety brass needle valve and an oil pressure gauge, can't go wrong.

How much oil pressure should the oil sending line see? I bought a oil restrictor thats .065 and its still leacking oil a little bit. Not sure if the drian lines are doing there job and its building up or what. I need to get out there today and take a look at it.