Ok, Ill try to make this short. Finally have the car 99.8% complete and have some ?'s. First: My BOV isnt working properly. I have adjusted the set screw in and out and between, I still get the chattering sound when it comes out of boost. No smooth "Pssh". Could something be wrong internally, or maybe a vac leak (couldnt find one)?
Second: The cartech FMU likes to whistle when I tighten the set screw to raise pressure for boost. Why is it doing this? Air in the line??
Third: Has anyone running 30lb injectors on a 2200 had problems with starting, like having to hold the foot feed down to start, and then a really crappy itle then stall?
This seemed to clear up today after sitting with the battery unhooked for a couple of hours, but I only ran it once for about 15min. shut it off and started again. It started right up both times and the itle was better (...better for 30lb injectors on a stock FPR that is.)
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Thanx.
OK, first off... I had the chattering w/ my BOV 4ever, till I ported a vac line DIRECTLY into the mani, in the big center part under the TB. That cleared everything up. I have my BOV and wastegate hooked up to this line...I think its a 5/16 vac line(BIG). About the idle problem, u need to get a AFPR to lower your fuel pressure at idle and/or get a s-afc to help tune it. I have 370cc injectors and w/o lowering the pressure it idled like a trunk with a huge cam. As 4 the FMU IDK.
Failure is not failure if you learn from it
My vac line is from the mani. Same spot you mentioned. My BOV, FMU, Map sensor for the ignition, and my boost gauge are all run from that.
The idle seemed good today, once it warmed up it was fine. I just cant run defrost or a/c witout it having fits. See what tomorrow brings...
The a/c and defrostis giving u problems cause the PCM adjusts the A/F mixture when they are turned on to help with the extra load on the motor. It richens the mixture, I read that in a post on here a month or so ago...someone w/ a wideband had noticed that when they turned on the a/c there A/F went up like 1.0-1.5 I think. As for the chatter problem, are your vac lines running to the BOV big enough? My BOV recommends that I use at least a 1/4" line to it. Plus, the length of the vac lines need to be as short as possible. I would hook it up as close to the source as possible, or isolate it on the line itself. Another qusetion, what type of BOV is it...if it is a knock off brand that could be why also. Like the saying goes" you get what you pay for".
A thought on the FMU whistle, it might be when you are tightening the set screw that air is passing by the threads. My Accel AFPR did this cause the screw was really loose, ended fally out and I bought a new one. I tefloned taped the hell out of it, no problems since. MAybe take the screw out and teflon it and see if that helps.
Failure is not failure if you learn from it
I might try that. I also am going to try to use a different vac source for some of the things I am running. The retard adjustment on my ignition has an indicator light to tell when it is active. It will stay strong when boost starts, but when i let off the gas & the BOV does its thing, the indicator light flutters. So its picking up the quick change in vac/pres when the BOV chatters. I think it might be a junk bov. I'll mess with it for a while, then maybe go to a turboXs if it wont work. The BOV looks like a HKS billet style that I saw a while back. Got it from a friend like brand new (scratches from install was all). But I dont know where he got it from. Probably e-bay b/c I see the same one there for $100.
Now having oil leak problems with my oil filter relocation kit... never ends.
Thanx!
