Check it out.
Here's what I've accomplished so far..
My car is a 99' 2.2l..
I've installed my custom log manifold with a new GM exhaust manifold gasket.
Turbocharger is a T3 w/ a .60 (Super 60) trim on the compressor side. .48 exhaust side.
So far the turbo is mocked in place with no gasket.. Charge pipe is mocked in place.. Blow off valve flange is welded to the charge pipe. (Not in picture). Gunna use an HKS SSQV BOV.. Have it already, just not installed.
My setup is about 1/4 the way complete.. Any thoughts, feel free to express them...
Nice! Good luck with everything
MaximumBoost.net
1-888-TURBO-31
sales@maximumboost.net
TAX ID: 45-8013458577-3
What is the black bar going above your manifold???
you scratch my ride IMA EAT YO CHILDREN
Cavgold96 wrote:What is the black bar going above your manifold???
Thats the coolant hard line
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
is there like a braket to hold it there ???Also where would i find a resevior (like in this pic) with 2 hoses off the top.....mine only has one......
you scratch my ride IMA EAT YO CHILDREN
non-intercooled SUUUUUUUUUUUUUCKS!.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Going for simple and cost effective right now. Intercooler may come later, but non intercooled is just fine with me for now. It'll get the job done.
although I know you want this done quick and want it turbo'd.
I would have to tell you Injtercooling it will enhance it greatly.
www.johnyracecar.com
www.speedpartsrus.com
those two places have great prices
Believe me you will like it
horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you
Lee_J wrote:Going for simple and cost effective right now. Intercooler may come later, but non intercooled is just fine with me for now. It'll get the job done.
cost effective????? NO, its cheaper to put an intercooler in now, run more boost (=more fun) then rebuilding the engine....how much boost you gonna run anyway?Other than that, looks like its coming along pretty good...
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
looks nice.
i would intercool it.
It is an E-bay manifold. Awesome, excellent quality and only payed $190 shipped for it.. From CANADA!
Plans are to run low boost ... 6 PSI at most for a little while.. Didn't see the point in intercooling it right now, so, we'll see how she runs without.
that looks good, but as hard as I tried to find it, I just couldn't see the intercooler
they're so easy to get a hold of.
the ebay mani's are pretty nice, and the dude only lives like 30 minutes from my place
yeah dude. get a dsm side mount or something. anything is better than nothing.
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
Looks good so far keep us updated
99 Turbo Sunfire GT | Ram 2500 | International Rollback | Mr Hanky the Suburban
OKAY LISTEN....
EVERY SINGLE PERSON IS TELLING YOU TO INTERCOOL THE SET UP BECAUSE IT HELPS GREATLY WITH ENGINE WEAR........ IT REDUCES ALL THE WEAR AND TEAR THE CAR WILL TAKE FROM THE RAISED INTAKE AIR TEMPS... BECAUSE OF THE TURBO..... DON"T RUN MORE THEN 2 psi..... she'll blow soon... haha intercool it .... 10 psi all day !!!! see the difference.....
if you don't intercool it and it blows please tell me so I can laugh...... intercooling is the BEST !!!!!!
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
OK man look I'll be straight with you. Intercooling isn't just an IN thing to do these days. Let's say you run 4 psi non-intercooled. Sure, that's super. You'll make another 35 horsepower max from that 4 psi. And your motor will get very very angry at you for running EXTREMELY hot IAT's. OR you could buy a $155 intercooler from Johnny Racecar, give a shop a few hundred bucks to make 2" or 2.25" piping for you. Run 6 psi, intercooled, and enjoy the benefits of 65 to 70 horsepower from the more cool, HIGHLY MORE DENSE compressed air. To give you a better idea. On our turbo sedan we built, we used a Greddy FMIC with 2.25 in / out end tanks. Now, we took it from a cold startup, and ran it on a 5 minute trip (and it hits boost instantly). Came back. The hot side (from turbo to intercooler) was naturally pretty damn hot. The pipe from intercooler to turbo was literally and I kid you not, literally COLD to the touch. Don't think about it. Just do it.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
^^^^^^ yep
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
Lee wrote:OKAY LISTEN....
EVERY SINGLE PERSON IS TELLING YOU TO INTERCOOL THE SET UP BECAUSE IT HELPS GREATLY WITH ENGINE WEAR........ IT REDUCES ALL THE WEAR AND TEAR THE CAR WILL TAKE FROM THE RAISED INTAKE AIR TEMPS... BECAUSE OF THE TURBO..... DON"T RUN MORE THEN 2 psi..... she'll blow soon... haha intercool it .... 10 psi all day !!!! see the difference.....
if you don't intercool it and it blows please tell me so I can laugh...... intercooling is the BEST !!!!!!
You're a retard, seriously.
Intercooling will not reduce "wear and tear" on a engine in any way. Intercooling will add power simply by cooling the intake charge making it more desne. This will allow your motor to actually intake more air at the same boost pressure than it could non-intercooled. The other main benefit of intercooling is to prevent detonation. The higher the intake temps are, the higher the risk of detonation is. It is a very
very good idea to intercool your turbo set up but not 100% necessary. It is probably every bit as risky to run 5 psi non-intercooled as it is to run 10 psi intercooled.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
^ I was thinking the same thing. You can easily run 6psi of non-intercooled boost. Just make sure you're on the rich side fuel wise.
2000 z24
1985 z28
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/825536
on a day with temps anywhere above 75, you're still going to have detonation problems with 6 non-intercooled psi.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Not that Im sticking up for anybody here but "Detonation" in my book classifies as wear and tear. Not really the best of either. So in a sense the intercooler Does in deed reduce wear and tear. Sorry I just thought it was comical you saying he was an idiot for saying that and then you turn right around and say it yourself, lol!
Back on track though. You really should run an intercooler and it really doesn't cost that much to do. In the long run or in some cases short run will greatly enhance your new coming to forced induction.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
Josh Csepegi (CUYOTE) you still f*cking with that thing? You have something to run me yet now that my Z is gone?
-----------------------------------------------------
2001 Buick Regal ..........
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/wayslowregal
Spotabee Racing wrote:on a day with temps anywhere above 75, you're still going to have detonation problems with 6 non-intercooled psi.
I said what i said because the intake temps of 5 psi non-intercooled are probably just as hot if not hotter that the intake temps of 10 psi intercooled.
[quote=CaliforniaDomestics®]Not that Im sticking up for anybody here but "Detonation" in my book classifies as wear and tear. Not really the best of either. So in a sense the intercooler Does in deed reduce wear and tear. Sorry I just thought it was comical you saying he was an idiot for saying that and then you turn right around and say it yourself, lol!
Detonation is destruction, not wear and tear. Ware and tear is like bearings and other friction surfaces waring down over time, not shattering pistons.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
nice and clean lookin man.
