Did a search and as the topic says. its time to get out of those 7mm acdelco factory plug wires. but I have bosch platnum 4's I would like to know whats the best combo for a 2.2 want to keep the spark as cool as can be. any help would be great.. thanks
Ryan
**changes are here**
I went with the nology wires that are sold on ebay all the time.
I told you 2 years ago that when you run boost on your car run NGK TR6's...Remember the box of them sitting next to my computer at work?!?!
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
I have Magnecore wires, they're fine. Go with the ACDelco R42LTS plugs (I think that's the number). They're 1 stage colder, and cost like $2 a piece. R42LTSM are 2 stages...for the MAD boost
<img src=http://hometown.aol.com/yogiandbooboo7/images/french.jpg>
OHV notec wrote:I have Magnecore wires, they're fine. Go with the ACDelco R42LTS plugs (I think that's the number). They're 1 stage colder, and cost like $2 a piece. R42LTSM are 2 stages...for the MAD boost
those are good too Chiply.......BTW, I need to come visit ya when I come back into town....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
I'm running MSD coils, Accel 8mm wires, and NGK TR6 plugs. Go the TR7 if you can get them.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
ImPhat0260/Cavattack2000 wrote:OHV notec wrote:I have Magnecore wires, they're fine. Go with the ACDelco R42LTS plugs (I think that's the number). They're 1 stage colder, and cost like $2 a piece. R42LTSM are 2 stages...for the MAD boost
those are good too Chiply.......BTW, I need to come visit ya when I come back into town....
yes you do.. how's STL? and yeah I remember those plugs you had them layin around for a bit..
**changes are here**
ok I just recently bought the R42LT5M or the GM# 5614197. the guy at the counter said that these plugs were more designed for the luminas and the cutlass's. I wouldn't think that would matter would it?? now remember I have a 2.2.
thanks
**changes are here**
I have the same plugs in mine. They seem to work alot better then my denzo's even! I had mine gapped to around 40 and it was a little clippy. I put them down to 32 and it has been running great since. also, IIRC, these are 2 step colder plugs and the R42LT5 is only 1 step cooler.
Failure is not failure if you learn from it
You could also try the NGK 7 Racing Plugs. They are alot shorter than the NGK TR6s.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
the "M"s are 2 stages, and IIRC factory Corvette plugs
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
AC Delco plug numbering, old style, the 4X number is heat range. 42 is coldest, 46 is hottest that I can think of.
I don't believe most aftermarket 8mm wires are any better than a set of quality 7mm parts for street performance. Considering how many I've seen that are chafed or have internal opens, I'm using Delco 7mm wires on my turbo Cavalier along with factory Delco plugs for a 2002-ish supercharged 3800. These plugs are Denso Iridium plugs reboxed as AC Delco parts. I bought mine through Advance Auto (part number 41101) for substantially less than a set of Iridium plugs cost new. I spent about an hour cross referencing heat ranges to find out that these plugs are slightly warmer than I was looking for, but reading the plugs (they've been in the car for maybe 8-9 months now?) shows that they are the correct heat range for the engine. I made a post in either the performance or boosted forum with more technical info on these plugs many moons ago.
The problem I had with a cold plug is that the engine didn't like to run well when cold. With my manual transmission and 180 deg T-stat it wanted to stall after coastdown or downshifting. Since tuning the car, I'm not really convinced that super cold plugs are the best choice for this engine. If you're having problems with pinging or detonation, you might want to investigate alternate ways to adjust your timing.
BTW I have a short video with the cav just sitting and idling. I started it up after it had sat for several days when it was between 10-20 deg out. This video is after the car has idled for about 3-4 minutes, before it's gone into closed loop. You can clearly see that the 55#/hr injectors are not running rich enough to blow black smoke by looking at the snow under the car.
turbo" target="_blank">http://[URL=http://www.grolen.com/shannen/j-car/93Cav55_1.AVI]turbo 2nd gen idling I've got video from the initial startup but I'm not patient enough to upload 17 Meg on a dial-up.
This car is super reliable. It 's sat since before Christmas, and the wife was able to start it up on Friday, drive it down to visit family in this dang Nor'easter we just had, then drive back with no problems.
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