ok running almost everything now just need to get the damn charge pipes on with the current set up you guys think it would be allright to just go from the turbo to the throttle body and just run like 5 or 6 puonds and runn her real rich ???? i dont see a problem with it as long as i dont go to high on the psi numbers
"dude, thats a girls car"
NOT ANY MORE!!! PSHHHTTT!!!!
As long as you have some decent fuel modifications, I'd say that it's typically safe to be at 5 psi, but I wouldn't go ANY higher than that without having an intercooler. They really make things a lot different man. Get an intercooler and raise the boost to 8!
MaximumBoost.net
1-888-TURBO-31
sales@maximumboost.net
TAX ID: 45-8013458577-3
i have an intercooler mountedjust wanna run up to dallas and show thes boys a thing or two
"dude, thats a girls car"
NOT ANY MORE!!! PSHHHTTT!!!!
MUFF do you have a FMU to increase pressure with boost if not i wouldnt run any psi till ya get that even witha SAFC becuase that cant read boost at all
A friend with an ecotec that he just turbo'd was running pretty good at 5psi spikes with no intercooler
although he had eManage and larger injectors... so he could retard timing as well as monitor the duty cycle on the injectors...
also has an EGT guage in there to make sure the temp wasn't getting too hot... (result of lean condition)
its your car man... I say wait it out to be honest...
yeah im all set ive just been waiting to get some time i have to much stuff going on i have stuff on the car thats not in my registry sorry i havent updated but yeah i got a wideeband ,egt gauge, 310cc injectors (ford red tops), fpr, and walbro 255lph fuel pump so i dont think leaning out should be to big a problem i just dont want to drive her far with the turbo just spinning to beat hell ive been walking pretty much everywhere unless its an emergency i just didnt know if that would be bad on the turbo or if i should hook up a pipe minus intercooler to give itr some sort of resistance and as of now i have no way to retard timing but i think thats just an excuse for not having enough fuel but i may be wrong
"dude, thats a girls car"
NOT ANY MORE!!! PSHHHTTT!!!!
TheFlyingSquirrel (PJ) wrote:
also has an EGT guage in there to make sure the temp wasn't getting too hot... (result of lean condition)
its your car man... I say wait it out to be honest...
EGT's mean nothing unless you know where to base it from
getting to hot is not just a result of a lean condition it can pertain to a rich condition as well, if you knew how to tune with one youd understand what i was saying
MUFFmy man an FPR will not save your ass at 5psi or any for thats matter you can only increase your base pressure with that which doesnt do any good at all YOU NEED A ADJUSTABLE FMU other wise your car will blow up ok
im just telling it to you straight if you dont have something to raise fuel with Boost then yes you will go lean even with a fpr and safc and larger injectors and pump you will destroy your engine simple as that, the fuel needs to be properly curved with the boost other wise you will have lean spots everywhere and cause detination
i have a FMU for sale for a cheap price but thats not why im writing this i dont wanna see ya have a post saying CRAP BLEW UP MY SH!T lol
crap blew up my @!#$ lol j/k car runs awesome wideband says get this 13.1 at full throttle all the way up to 14.4 at low throttle cruising speeds its like free nitrous yay time to turn up the fuel and spray on her oh yeah i tuned it in about 1 hour thanks to my egt wideband and safc-2 so now i have some questions its not intercooled yet but im gonna run like this prolly till i can save up the money to do the piping cause im a moron when it comes to that type of @!#$ ok
#1 what is the funny chattering noise my boy said my bov isnt opening true or false
#2 can i use a boost control instead of getting a new wastegate (internal) i think if i read right i can boost more with one but not less lemme know if i got this right
"dude, thats a girls car"
NOT ANY MORE!!! PSHHHTTT!!!!
sweet thanks for the info i was looking at the specs for the bov and it says its a 6 psi so it prolly isnt opening
"dude, thats a girls car"
PSHHHTTT NOT ANY MORE!!!!!!!
13.1 is very lean just to let you know
you should be in the low 12's
your gonna blow your @!#$ up
i dont know how 13.1 is lean a perfect air fuel mixture is 14.7 to 1 thats perfect PERFECT once again i am new to this but how am i too lean with a 13.1 i just dont understand i guess i need to be schooled better heres some reading
Traditionally, the greatest tendency to knock was near 13.5:1 air-fuel
ratio, but was very engine specific. Modern engines, with engine management
systems, now have their maximum octane requirement near to 14.5:1. For a
given engine using gasoline, the relationship between thermal efficiency,
air-fuel ratio, and power is complex. Stoichiometric combustion ( air-fuel
ratio = 14.7:1 for a typical non-oxygenated gasoline ) is neither maximum
power - which occurs around air-fuel 12-13:1 (Rich), nor maximum thermal
efficiency - which occurs around air-fuel 16-18:1 (Lean). The air-fuel ratio
is controlled at part throttle by a closed loop system using the oxygen sensor
in the exhaust. Conventionally, enrichment for maximum power air-fuel ratio
is used during full throttle operation to reduce knocking while providing
better driveability [38]. An average increase of 2 (R+M)/2 ON is required
for each 1.0 increase (leaning) of the air-fuel ratio [111]. If the mixture
is weakened, the flame speed is reduced, consequently less heat is converted
to mechanical energy, leaving heat in the cylinder walls and head,
potentially inducing knock. It is possible to weaken the mixture sufficiently
that the flame is still present when the inlet valve opens again, resulting
in backfiring.
"dude, thats a girls car"
PSHHHTTT NOT ANY MORE!!!!!!!
THATS N/A DUDE! 13's are for N/A cars
you should be running in the low - mid 12's @ wot boosted and down to 14.7 at idle
you need a FMU i dont understand how you cant understand it lol
ugg please just get one you will not be able to have a correct fuel curve with out one, and no your safc cant make a good one for boost as it cant even see it, its only good for tuning the curve the fmu makes so that you can have a proper curve other wise you will have spots that are lean and spots that are to rich , basicly you need both if you wanna run right
get it right buy a FMU OR BOOM!!!
put down that turbo and pick up a book
cant beleave i wasted my last post on ya hope your happy : )~
buy premium damn it geez i got the fmu it still doesnt do anything just sits and throws CEL codes (system too rich bank 1 ) like its a bad thing! im about to break the bulb outta it like i did the airbag idiot light if i wanna turn the fuel up i still have to use the safc sooo...... like i said my egts are still around the 1200 mark and the probe is pretty much same place everyone else puts theirs so i THINK im good now im gonna turn up the boost like they say its easier to blow it up than build it up but not untill i can get this damn fmic hooked up im thinking about using a diy kit off e-bay and no im using t-bolt clamps not worm gear clamps and i drove to dallas today and stomped the @!#$ out of the gas pedal no problems (fmu not hooked up) as high as the egts ever got was 1400 when i was hovering around the 0 mark on the boost gauge at like 20% throttle and 3000 rpms had the safc set to -22
"dude, thats a girls car"
PSHHHTTT NOT ANY MORE!!!!!!!
