First off, this isn't a weekend build. It may take a weekend to get the parts on, but I have a Megasquirt 3 coming back from the shop this week, and plan on running fully standalone. Which means by by everything including stock gauges. :o

Parts so far:
Hahn stage 2 kit---
Inter-cooler and charge pipes
Hahn billet BOV
Mitsu Super 20g
running 8psi on the internal wategate
BEGI FMU - comes with hahn kit
00-02 fuel rail
630cc injectors (not sure what brand, I looked them up when I bought them, forgot.
Magnaflow full exhaust
3" down pipe
cat-deleted by original owner.

Other misc stuff


I'll start the log with picture of where I'm at today:

Mounting the intercooler. Hahn makes this super easy! The thing is a direct fit to pre-existing bolts, Just a little shaving the bumper absorber I'm imagining.

I'm going to have to ditch the fabbed' intake manifold for now. I don't want to cut up the charge pipes, so until I get money for cold side charge piping, I'm swapping a 2.4 intake manifold on.

I did not however get the inline fuel pump that comes with the kit, so any suggestions? The cheaper the better. Will an inline pump work, or would it just make more sense to get high flow in tank pump? I would have complete control over a 2nd pump via MS.

More pics tonight! Off to the garage




I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

Can a mod move this to the Photo & Media section? Or leave it here, i don't care, but I don't think this is the right section for this. Sorry!







I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

Progress before lunch. PIZZA HUT FTW
I'm stuck on the top bolt on the exhaust flange from the manifold. Thing won't figgin' budge. About to take the dremel to it.

Battery tray's coming out. Air box is gone. Need to make/buy a windshield washer fluid reservoir, and most importantly I need my gosh darn MegaSquirt back from the dealer. They sent me a bad cpu, and I had to ship it back for a replacement.

Does anyone know where I can find stock timing, VE and fuel tables? And PE, pretty much every stock table lol.
^^Does anyone have a solution to my fuel pump issue?



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

...F-ed Up pictures








I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

If you have a torch or even some mapp gas, put the heat on that stuck bolt and get it nice and hot, cherry if possible. Then go away for a bit while it cools off then try to get it loose.

Yeah, I did that about 3 times.... I just cut it into 3 pieces with my sawzall, then the downpipe from the hahn kit bolts right up to the flange after the cat. I'm sticking with the stock cat-back for now. Possibly selling the Magnaflow cat-back, who knows.

I'm missing the inline aux fuel pump, and I guess the stage 2 kits were designed to run at 8psi, with the aux pump, without a tune and be okay. I'm guessing it has to do with the BEGI FMU included with the kit. What is an equivalent inline pump I can buy?

I'm also missing like a gazillion misc nuts and bolts, so I'm off to sears. I'm going to look like a dumba$$ walking around sears with a turbocharcer in one hand, and a fuel rail in the other



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

You can buy a racetronix in tank pump that will do more than what you will need. This is the W-body pump which fits perfect.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPA-007&eq=&Tp=

someone posted a cheap ebay alternative to that but Ill stick with my racetronix.

I'm with vince just go Racetronix, prooven to work by multiple members. I've had mine over two years and my car is my dd just make sure you get the harness upgrade as well.

Yeah, that's in my price range to! I'm gonna pass on the harness. Optima Yellow top in the trunk, #2 up to the stud, then #0 from the alternator to the stud.

I have plenty of 8 gauge and relays hanging around to save the $50 on the harness.



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

That harness is worth every penny they charge. 100% plug and play. All the connectors are plug and play. Not to mention designed to work with the kit.

JUCNBST wrote:I'm with vince just go Racetronix, prooven to work by multiple members. I've had mine over two years and my car is my dd just make sure you get the harness upgrade as well.

X3 for the harness you'll regret it later if you dont!!! that harness made it to where I can run the tank down with no problems with out it better fill it every time you hit 1/4 tank! plus its $50 save yourself the hassle dont have to go back and drop the tank like me.

I was going to make an access panel underneath my backseat :x



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

that wouldn't be a easyer solution you'll still have to remove the tank to cut a plate out and by the time you make a door you could have the harness in with the tank!

just trying to save you time and not complicating things

I mean from inside the car, just cut a big hole, do the pump, and tack it back on, and a little rtv... then just grind the tacks off if I ever need to get back in there... or I could go all out and put hinges and a seal on it. My point was that I hate dropping gas tanks, and would rather cut a hole in the floor.
Besides that though, I'm still going to put the "harness" in, I'm just going to make it myself.

All it really is, is a "hefty" 10 gauge wire. Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.
I'm going to chop up the harness, use the actual pump power wire as a signal wire for a relay in the trunk, then 8 gauge to the pump connector [off of a fused distribution block at the battery]. I guarantee you there will be no voltage drop there. There ad is total bs also. They claim that putting the wire on the alternator give you 14 volts instead of 12.... When your car is running, there is 13.5-14.9 volts everywhere. If anything, connecting it to the alternator may actually lessen the life of the pump, as your car battery acts as a sort of "shock absorber" for voltage spikes and dips, evening out overall system voltage. Plus when you put the pedal to the floor, and that pump needs to draw more current... where do you think its coming from? The battery, not the alternator. The bigger wire makes sense. The +12 point does not.

Like I said I have a giant bucket of 8+ gauge wire a bajillon relays, and too many ring terminals and weather pack pins to count. I'd rather save the $50 and take the knowledge from learning the fuel wiring system.

/end dickishness

Got the 02 fuel rail on. I seemed to have lost an injector somewhere on my desk
Coming along nicely, maybe I'll have it running tonight hahaha



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

BTW my injectors are Siemens DEKA IV's this makes since, because it seems that the flow increases as the pressure does. Up to 89psi
I'm loving this hahn kit so far.



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

ok lol

just watch you dont cut the tank hoses or top of the fuel container

hope it works out for you

I'll rethink the plan in the morning. It's getting late.



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

Eric Knight wrote:All it really is, is a "hefty" 10 gauge wire. Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.
I'm going to chop up the harness, use the actual pump power wire as a signal wire for a relay in the trunk, then 8 gauge to the pump connector [off of a fused distribution block at the battery]. I guarantee you there will be no voltage drop there. There ad is total bs also. They claim that putting the wire on the alternator give you 14 volts instead of 12.... When your car is running, there is 13.5-14.9 volts everywhere. If anything, connecting it to the alternator may actually lessen the life of the pump, as your car battery acts as a sort of "shock absorber" for voltage spikes and dips, evening out overall system voltage. Plus when you put the pedal to the floor, and that pump needs to draw more current... where do you think its coming from? The battery, not the alternator. The bigger wire makes sense. The +12 point does not.

While your harness sounds like a great idea and upgrade, I'm going to disagree with you on the voltage part of your statement. Yes, in theory, every part of the electrical system that is designed to see alternator voltage SHOULD see 13.5+ volts while the car is running, but there is significant voltage drop since the fuel pump circuit is ran from the battery, which is also where every other circuit in the electrical system is getting it's power. Not to mention the small style fuel pump relay, electrical resistance, and the aformentioned smaller gauge wires that GM uses helps contribute to the loss. Think of it in terms of a river. You're going to have a helluva lot more flow at the source of the river than at one of the many streams that branch off of it many miles downstream. Depending on the vehicle, with the stock wiring harness you should see slightly above "battery voltage (12.7 volts)" at the pump while it is running, but nowhere near the 14+ the alternator is putting out.

All the Racetronix harness does is esssentially "bypass" the entire electrical system and helps to eliminate voltage loss. You're esentially getting the voltage "straight from the tap" without any loss from excessive resistance or other circuits. The upgraded wires, connectors, and relay helps with this as well. So while Racetronix's "battery vs. alternator voltage" explanation might be flawed on their site description, the basic theory and purpose behind their harness upgrade is correct. Plus, the plug-and-play aspect with the nifty voltage booster option is quite handy.




Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!

Eric Knight wrote:
Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.

There has been proof that JUST the harness alone being installed, nothing else but the harness being added to the pump, AFR's dropped a FULL point from installing the harness. I noticed it on mine instantly. Would never go back from it no matter how much wire and relays I have laying around. Theirs is nice, neat and complete plug and play.

You are missing the point here. All of this is coming from people with experience. Me especially. Been there done that. Racetronix's job is fuel systems and components. thats what they do and know. Ill take their word for it. Why do something twice or half way only to redo all of it again if something goes wrong. let alone with a fuel system.

both them have valid points, we can all assure you that harness isn't a joke some of us have thought it and had to do it again some hot lucky and listened to the advice they got.

I respect the fact you want to make your own harness, just not with the fuel system. fuel is a key point in boost you can't risk doing some thing wrong, and you can end up doing damage yo your stock harness.

if it were that easy someone woulda done it by now and posted a diy for all us.

BuiltNBoosted wrote:

Eric Knight wrote:
Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.

There has been proof that JUST the harness alone being installed, nothing else but the harness being added to the pump, AFR's dropped a FULL point from installing the harness. I noticed it on mine instantly. Would never go back from it no matter how much wire and relays I have laying around. Theirs is nice, neat and complete plug and play.

You are missing the point here. All of this is coming from people with experience. Me especially. Been there done that. Racetronix's job is fuel systems and components. thats what they do and know. Ill take their word for it. Why do something twice or half way only to redo all of it again if something goes wrong. let alone with a fuel system.

Yeah, Vince is correct.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

You guys sound like salesmen. Does this make me outted if I don't get it?



I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/

For somebody asking for advice you are starting to be a bit of a d!ck...

We all respect that you would like to make your own harness, the above members just wanted to point out from personal experience that it is a good idea to upgrade the harness to the fuel pump as it makes the racetronix upgrade run to its full potential.

I just finished installing my racetronix and harness last night, wasn't too bad.

If you want to make your own harness then get a good weatherpack exterior 4 post relay, and run a good heavy gauge wire back to the alternator yourself. All we are saying is do yourself a favor and upgrade the wiring to the pump and run it right to the alternator as it will help your turbo setup tremendously.

And I know what you mean about walking around the store looking for bolts feeling like an idiot, I did that about 2 months ago with my supercharger at Home Depot. I got a lot of "wtf is that!?" looks while I was sitting there figuring out what bolts I needed.

Make sure you get grade 10+ bolts for that turbo btw.

-Chris-



-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...