Ok so i did it... i got a fully built LD9 for my twin charged set up... My question is.. I have it tuned right now with the bone stock internal LD9... and the engine thats going is full built from the 8:1 JE pistons, forged rods, secret cam swap ported head ect...
I am just wondering how bad/ruff its going to run from any of you who have done a swap from bone stock to built engine with lower compression and new cams... as my tuner is 2hrs away from me..
So i know if im going to need to rent a trailor for my truck to pull this up to the shop of if its going to be ok to drive it there (going easy of coarse) keep in mind its a 2hr high way drive
Also kind of on the same note... how do i work this break in period? If i got to get it tuned and it has 0kms on it (litterly all brand new) wont that be hard on it?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
The break in period on my current engine lasted as long as it took to remove all the air form the cooling system and get to the first stop sign.
mitdr774 wrote:The break in period on my current engine lasted as long as it took to remove all the air form the cooling system and get to the first stop sign.
really? i always thought it was a lot more then that? and nothing close to wide open throttle? As well i have heard always use regular oil from any where from 1000-5000kms (aka for your first oil change period) before going to a synthetic oil?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Josh F wrote:Ok so i did it... i got a fully built LD9 for my twin charged set up... My question is.. I have it tuned right now with the bone stock internal LD9... and the engine thats going is full built from the 8:1 JE pistons, forged rods, secret cam swap ported head ect...
I am just wondering how bad/ruff its going to run from any of you who have done a swap from bone stock to built engine with lower compression and new cams... as my tuner is 2hrs away from me..
So i know if im going to need to rent a trailor for my truck to pull this up to the shop of if its going to be ok to drive it there (going easy of coarse) keep in mind its a 2hr high way drive
Also kind of on the same note... how do i work this break in period? If i got to get it tuned and it has 0kms on it (litterly all brand new) wont that be hard on it?
i can tell you what I did josh, but everyone will say something different
went from a stock motor 10:1 to a built motor 8.9:1
i did 500 miles stop and go, with normal driving WITHOUT excessive acceleration. (new clutch break in) then the 500-1000 i would still varry the rpms even up to redline at after 800ish. still didnt go balls out till about 1000-1100 once we changed the oil. ran dino oil till about 6-7k on the motor.
whatever u do. dont go on a 1000 mile drive at one rpm.
now im sure people will tell you that you dont have to do what i did or exactly how. im just telling you what i did and i didnt have any problems.
the whole break it in how u drive it, i dont recomend. usually race cars that do that. are tore down and rebuilt after a few runs.
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
John H [CavalierKid] i think i like how that sounds.... i dont mind dragging it out over a long period of time... i want to break it in properly... so im thinking i will follow the way you did... but how did it run after you did all this? like im thinking because im going ALOT lower compression and different cams and ported head.. that it will run like crap and not even be able to drive at all? or am i totaly off? like i have my boost controler set to 11psi... and i know if i run that with the new engine its going to be alot more air in the engine and my tune right there is going to be way off i could turn it right down to 6psi which is what the wastegate spring is set to... but im just not sure how its going to run..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
just tow it up to you tuner.. better be safe than sorry.. if the car is excessevily rich you will take the chance of washing out the cylinders and the new rings will not seat.. tow it, start it there with the tuner ready to tune idle, break it in on the dyno
there is a write up on the net that has you like go to 3k rpms then decel in gear go back to 4 decel in gear then go back to 5k decel in gear hen 6k decel in gear and then they say it's broken in.
I did what John did cept I changed my oil every 250 miles up to 1000, then at 1500 and 2000
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
I asked the guy that built my engine the same question. How long is the break in process. He told me drive it with a few pounds of boost and go up from there. He did not say X amount of miles then go ahead. In the hanes repair book i think it says 4000. I told him that and he said no. But it my camshaft book it says break my turbo cams in for 30 min at 2500 rpms.
owner of 2002 ls sport cavalier and 2007 cobalt ss
there's as many engine break-in procedures as there are engine builders it seems... The way I've been hearing pretty much my entire life is what John H said, which is to drive it normally, but try to avoid staying at the same rpm for long periods of time. I would go full throttle or redline it until after the first oil change.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
I'm going to do incremental acceleration and engine braking. However I see many people tell you to turn the car off and let it cool down. I disagree with this, an engine with colant running thru it is going to avoid hotspots, and cool down faster to the point of nominal engine temperature.
I'll be running HD-30 through the first 500miles for breakin changing it after initial startup and breakin (50 miles or less.), then 450 miles with the second change. After that I'll switch to mobil 1 EP.
-Chris
lol i think ill still do what John said... but i think i will have it towed up to edmonton for the tuning
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
I'm with sweetness on this. Computers can make up for a lot of variables. It will likely run strange in open loop and then clean up as soon as it goes into closed loop- big problem i had with big injectors and FMU on stock tune. It shouldn't give you troubles to drive though just don't beat on it till you have a decent tune on it.
_
Now with northstar V8, IRS, 20's n 22's
Then my next question is how did you guys prime your engine before you started it?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
I was going to ask you what injectors are currently on your stock motor and tune? What injectors will be on this new motor? I would probably run the motor with the injectors mastched to the tune you ECU currently has. As for breaking in the motor. I feel you should do so. As stated there is many ways to do so. Speaking with whoever built the motor might be a good idea as well. I know the Hanyes manual tells you to drive to like 45mph let your foot off the gas for 5mph of decel, increase speed by 5mph and do that again. This is for helping the riungs seat correctly. That might not be exactly how it reads but something close.. I would probably start the car let it come to temp look for leaks etc..... Take it out for the first drive and seat the rings. Then change the oil. Then change it again around 500miles, and again at 1000miles. Then again at 2000 miles and then again at 3000miles. After that do what you do noprmally.
FU Tuning
440cc Green top injectors
HP tune on it for 250whp & 240lbs/tq
Well for the cam break it dont you have to let it idle at like 1500rpm for like 30min? As it has new cams in it too... wont that hurt the engine being at one RPM for so long?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
For priming I pulled the fuel pump relay out of the underhood fuse box and disconnected the injector harness (you can't do this on 99 up high impedence systems)...
I then cranked the engine quite a bit.. 30-40 seconds worth of cranking to bring oil up to the head. I then plugged in the injectors and put the fuel pump fuse back in and primed the car twice by putting the key in the on position.
After checking to see if my rail pressure what what I expected, I turned the key and prayed. lol IMMEDIATELY upon startup I watched the oil pressure gauge to make sure it went up to what I expected for cold idle, if it didn't I would have shut it down within 3 seconds.
I let it warm up to operating temps looking for leaks, then I burped the cooling system and made sure all was well there.
The first time my car was started with the new cams I had to do a cam break in which was hold it at 2000 rpms for 10 mins and then 3000 rpms for 10 mins.
After that if no leaks, she's ready for the road.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
so then you did your cam break in before you even drove it ... meaning it shouldnt be to hard on the engine?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
SweetnessGT wrote:For priming I pulled the fuel pump relay out of the underhood fuse box and disconnected the injector harness (you can't do this on 99 up high impedence systems)...
I then cranked the engine quite a bit.. 30-40 seconds worth of cranking to bring oil up to the head. I then plugged in the injectors and put the fuel pump fuse back in and primed the car twice by putting the key in the on position.
After checking to see if my rail pressure what what I expected, I turned the key and prayed. lol IMMEDIATELY upon startup I watched the oil pressure gauge to make sure it went up to what I expected for cold idle, if it didn't I would have shut it down within 3 seconds.
I let it warm up to operating temps looking for leaks, then I burped the cooling system and made sure all was well there.
The first time my car was started with the new cams I had to do a cam break in which was hold it at 2000 rpms for 10 mins and then 3000 rpms for 10 mins.
After that if no leaks, she's ready for the road.
-Chris-
I agree with this as well. Not many people are going to need to break in a cam on a 2.4, because not really any options for brand new never used cams.
FU Tuning
Josh F wrote:Then my next question is how did you guys prime your engine before you started it?
put the oil in right before we were ready to start. waited a few minutes to make sure it made it to the pan but not all collect in the pan. cycled the pump, and it started right up. i was hitting 15psi by 1500 miles. only problem i had/have is the oil line that we tapped in the pan spots every now and then. and a couple broken axles.
iv got videos up on my youtube if your interested josh
http://youtube.com/profile?user=jhor86
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
