i am building my '04 ecotec motor to turbocharge it and was going to use the Hahn stage 2 kit. Where can i get my internals like rods and pistons, valves, cam gears, camshafts on an online site. i have roughly $10k to work with and i want the motor to be bullet proof and plan to have my tranny rebuilt at a local shop. i have no chance at building a custom because of lack of knowledge prohibits it, but will have the grace of fiance to supply funds hopefully enough to have installed by shop. is mantapart reliable with parts? or importpermance.net?
thank you
set the example, never let the example set you.
I used (amoung others)
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/
www.car-part.com
www.carcustoms.net
www.rksport.com
www.wingswest.com
www.ebaymotors.com
there is 2 other really good sites on this forum, I just can't for the life of me remember, I have bought from both.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
I can help with the HRC stuff and a few of the other things. Shoot me an email and I'll help you all I can.
ge-force: There's APlus, TTR, and myself on this site as well.
I'm guessing you were thinking of Aplus and TTR though.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
^^ team vision, and A+, those are the ones
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Also ATP Turbo has been a great source for parts.
_________________________________________
450WHP Turbo Ecotec swap in the works...
thanx
set the example, never let the example set you.
Is this a good buy?
From Mantapart
2.2 Ecotec Turbo/SC engine- this is a completely built engine-with forged lower compression pistons, billet rods and race quality internals.
Full headwork and HD turbo cams and valve train. HD oil system mods and setup for a turbo drain down incorporated into the block already.
It is ready for your manifolds and turbo or SC- this is a bullet -proof engine!
This is the same engine Gm is making 1000+HP with and is a great engine for a turbo/SC project or a kit car conversion too.
(We can provide a RWD bellhousing for them now too) $3750 + truck frt
set the example, never let the example set you.
Quote:
This is the same engine Gm is making 1000+HP with
by that they mean that the 2.2 ecotec. That engine is not capable of 1000hp, unless it is sleeved, plus other huge mods,
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
well will it work for the range of 300-400hp?
set the example, never let the example set you.
you can run 300-400 HP with just rods and pistons. Check out my list, or Spyhunter's list, he made 434whp on an LD9, I believe stock main bolts, stock head gasket, and stock head bolts. (I am 90% sure and don't have time to check now.
And I will try to post an article relating to the ecotec, but there was an older post pertaining to the HP capabilities of the 2.2, I believe completely stock the engine held 283hp (nitrous) then snapped rods. For around 700-900 you can get rods/pistsons, few hundered to balance/blueprint, and couple hundred to get bottom end assembled. If you own a torque wrench, a computer, and (can rent) an engine hoist, you can do an engine swap. Bolting the head on is a simple task too, if you can following instructions from a piece of paper.
just a thought.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Quote:
Analysis
It's amazing that any components whatsoever designed for a stock 140 hp 2.2-liter Ecotec would survive on an extreme power plant making more than six times its power. However the stock Ecotec block and main/girdle structure did survive to 750 hp, as did the stock sleeves. The stock main bearings survived. The stock stamped roller finger-followers were effective to at least 9700 rpm, as were the hydraulic lifters. The oil passages remained stock to 800 hp. The stock chains, guides, tensioners and water pump worked all the way to heaven. The stock head survived with minor strengthening and massive breathing modifications. Many other components were good for two to four times stock power (see chart). GM Powertrain engineers designed a base engine with many stock components that were above and beyond what was needed for stock performance. "The crank support structure of the Ecotec is unbelievably strong," says Bothwell. "We detected no core shifting under the most extreme conditions."
The engine-fuel combination turned out to be extremely knock-resistant. The Ecotec combustion chamber is efficient, with an excellent tumble and high flame speed, and the engine was able to run 10:1 compression without knock at boost pressures as high as 36 psi at 21 degrees spark advance. In a vehicle, the on-board computer is aware of which gear is in use and varies maximum boost accordingly to avoid detonation and traction control problems.
From the excellent power-boost ratio of 750 hp at 24 psi, one can infer that careful turbo selection, camshaft selection and timing, good intercooling and carefully considered turbo system geometry result in a happy situation in which inlet manifold pressure exceeds backpressure in a happy phenomenon called crossover, where horsepower really skyrockets.
Turbo configuration and size would change three times during the tuning process. The highest-flow turbo is currently capable of delivering 40 psi boost at very high power levels. The largest Innovative wastegate is unable to divert enough exhaust to keep boost from creeping to a minimum of 15 psi when heavily loaded on the dyno, though this is not a problem on the track.
What is the Ecotec's final frontier? So far, unknown; but we'll be looking to the track in 2002 for the answers to that question.
http://www.year2032.com/ecotec.htm
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
so this motor along with the hahn stage 2 kit would prolly net me a high hp?
2.2 Ecotec Turbo/SC engine- this is a completely built engine-with forged lower compression pistons, billet rods and race quality internals. Full headwork and HD turbo cams and valve train. HD oil system mods and setup for a turbo drain down incorporated into the block already. It is ready for your manifolds and turbo or SC- this is a bullet -proof engine!
if so im gonna boost the hell out this motor!...only one problem can my auto tranny be built to withstand those conditiond?...parts
400hp is gonna be my set limit on power.
set the example, never let the example set you.
who offers a better crate motor then?
set the example, never let the example set you.
that is a great motor. I recommend doing a little more research, as I do not have the answers, I am very limited on the ECO. But I will say when taking HP into consideration, all you need is rods/pistons and you can easily support 400HP daily. Other options like, ported head, balanced engine, compression, etc make this easier to do due to effiecency. But wiegh out the options of a nice tubular turbo manifold or log style maniold (could be the difference from $1000 to $190 on ebay), take turbos into consideration GT30R compared to a t3/to4e compared to a t3/to4b, could be a difference from, $400 rebuilt to $1200 USD with water cooling and ballbearing setup.
Another thing to consider is, "what kind of car do I want" or "why do I want 400hp?" If you are looking for a nice 1/4 mile car, larger turbos will net more high end horsepower but less low end horsepower. if you want a autocross car, maybe something with way more low end torque and horsepower would increase your speed. I suggest looking around on this site, and decide what you want to do with the car, then spend money wisely. Look at peoples mod lists, dyno charts, then apply it to your style. I went with a t3/to4b, because it spools around 2800rpm, which means on the highway I can drive in 5th and not boost, but if I autocross I can still have boost at 2800rpm. The turbocharger allows for hgher pressures should I decide to push more power in the future.
That engine is a really good engine. But with a good engine, setup, and higher HP goals, tuning and money into tuning increase. Make sure you can tune it just right and understand what and why, so when something goes wrong you can figure it out. I have never used a Hahn kit, but they have really good products from what other people have posted. I am not trying to be a dick, I am just trying to give some things to take into consideration. Take a look at some of these threads might find some good info.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=15572&t=15572 ----list of many boosted J's and there mods
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=133072&t=133072 --- take a look at the dyno sheet (rpm that HP comes on and compare to turbo size)
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
thanx and your suggestions are duely noted. I want boost at low rpm and steady boost throughout the rpm range. drivablity and acceleration with low end torque but high end boost when needed. i will check those links out. i know 400 hp sounds high, but i set a goal to be an import threat.
set the example, never let the example set you.
what is the stock size of the L61 pistons and rods?...what parts need replaced in the bottom end to handle 15-20 psi?....
set the example, never let the example set you.
Richard Neihardt wrote:L61 Pistons are 86mm (3.38in) and Rods are 94.6mm. (3.72in)
thats the bore and the stroke. the bore works for the piston diameter, but if the rods are 94.6mm long I think its a coincidence..
because thats the stroke which is a measure of the crank, not the length of the rod
Sorry I haven't gotten back to your email yet. My only access is from school and work right now while Dell is fixing my computer. I'll make sure I get back to you tonight.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
i ownly found your supercharged cam grind not a turbo grind hypsy
plus you dont carry fuel pumps or injectors
set the example, never let the example set you.
I carry a lot more stuff than what is listed on my site. Ask PJ
I'm just one person working full-time, going to school full-time, running a business, building a race car, and working on the website. The website usually takes a backseat to everything else.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
i have an account on your site
but if you find time can you send me a list of waht parts you would reccommend going along with the satge 2 hahn kit to produce 400hp or at least 350hp...quick accel and some top end
set the example, never let the example set you.
