Well its sad news imo. The place I went to ( Wont say names ) did far less quality than they are capable of. First off all 3 of my pulls that I paid for were a joke! The car was only in boost for about 1 to 1 1/2 seconds on each run!!! All three pulls were done from about 3500-4000 rpm and ending before redline! So in the end I drove over one hour to get there and did not get there A game at all. Results of 3 crappy pulls... 178WHP. Anyone else think I should not have paid for that? Id like my money back what do you think?

Here have a vid and see for yourself what went on...

CRAPPY DYNO

Also please keep this on JBO. Ill be heading to a local place next week for a diff dyno run .

i think you got robbed

if they didnt want to dyno it right they shouldnt have done it at all

i woulda accepted , we dont have the time , or we dont feel like it , more than i woulda taken those runs

You were most definately robbed. Should be like a 4th gear pull to redline. Definately try to get your money back i woulda said @!#$ like then an their butt thats just me. Good luck.


*2012 mazdaspeed3*

yea dude, as I told you on the phone, you got screwed......



P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

jackasses, i dynoed today the guy was really cool... ima be making a post later on so i dont jack yours

go some where else, and ... you shouldnt have paid...



|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|

yea, i have another dyno on a dyno jet this comming weekend as long as the weather holds out. I need a baseline before I do a mod im hoping all the eco charged guys will like .

wtf was that?!
You were serious abot the 1 1/2 seconds. lol

I wouldnt have paid or left till they did it right



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

Rodimus Prime wrote:I wouldnt have paid or left till they did it right

|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|

Are you serious?? Who are these asshats? Did they have trouble getting a tach signal?


___________________________________________________________________

WTF was that?

How much you paid for that s&%t

Wow...I mean just wow...that was suppose to be your run huh?




Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

Yeah when Eric showed me that vid i was like

Well I'm pretty sure I know why this happened. You are a auto, and auto cars can be very tricky on the dyno. You have to find the sweet spot to keep it from dropping down into third gear, or you have to put it in third gear. If you find the sweet spot in fourth then you have to worry about the speed limiter. I still think they should have either cut you a deal, or gave it to you for free. Talk to Skilz since he is a auto and has dynoed to see how they did his. You might want to consider doing a speed override to get a full fouth gear pull.



FU Tuning

BlackEco wrote:Are you serious?? Who are these asshats? Did they have trouble getting a tach signal?

the place i went to yesterday just kept hooking wires until their computer read the same as my car.... i forget which one it was though... he did it in like 10 seconds though...

John Higgins wrote:Well I'm pretty sure I know why this happened. You are a auto, and auto cars can be very tricky on the dyno. You have to find the sweet spot to keep it from dropping down into third gear, or you have to put it in third gear. If you find the sweet spot in fourth then you have to worry about the speed limiter. I still think they should have either cut you a deal, or gave it to you for free. Talk to Skilz since he is a auto and has dynoed to see how they did his. You might want to consider doing a speed override to get a full fouth gear pull.

To stop this from happening, I just put the trans into the 3rd gear spot on the shifter, and then accelerated to 50/60 and pulled from their... it wont down shift in those conditions....I have my speed limiter off, so i can get to around 115/120 before i hit the stock rev limiter



|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|

i saw them run it in 2nd and 3rd, then the final pull was in 4th.

WOW!!! That was horrible. Now you know what HP your making at that RPM O boy. Screw those guys

You need so find a dyno that can be programed for your exact gear ratios so that you can get a accurate full power band reading from any gear you wish to dyno in, even 1st.

The shop i go to uses a Dynapack 3000 chassis dynamometer, which has a bunch of advantages over the typical roller dyno.

A quote taken from their site....

The Dynapack is a unique dynamometer with many advantages over other types.

First, unlike many dynos, it has active load control so you can tell it EXACTLY what you want it to do. It can hold engine speed at 3300rpm regardless of throttle position, it can do a power pull from 2000rpm to 7500rpm in exactly 8 seconds, it can do a power pull with steps instead of one constant ramp, the possibilities are endless. This ability is a must if you're doing any serious engine mapping. This dyno is top of the line.

Second, unlike any other chassis dyno out there, it bolts directly to your hubs instead of relying on your tires to spin a big drum. The advantages here are clear. You eliminate the unpredictable error caused by tires as temperature, inflation pressure, and slip % change- results are consistent from run to run. You take heavy/light wheels out of the equation. You don't melt your expensive tires. You also don't run the risk of the tie-downs coming loose allowing your car to leap off the dyno- with the Dynapack there are no tie-downs and the car is in no danger of moving.

Finally, with wideband O2 and intake pressure and temp sensors, the data produced is extremely helpful to the tuner. You know exactly what's going on in your engine and how to optimize it.




- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

178whp? thats all? Yeah I would not have paid for that as that is kinda obscene they way it was run. With the 3.0 pulley and everything else that car should have shown a dyno of over 200whp....Definitely call and talk to the management on this....

Oh, I checked my chart that I recieved and it shows the rpm's stopping at 5700!

And they did not hook up a tach signal. only real numbers i got from the dyno was my boost, turnos out my autometer is dead on it though

God that blower sounds badass.

Please videotape the next dyno with the camera on the charger, please?


I want to hear more!

if they didnt hook up any rpm how the heck do they know 5700 ??

here is my 2 dyno vids

outside
Click here to see Video

inside
Click here to see Video

what the heck.. Damn. That was a quick hickup of a dyno run. Try to get your money back.













~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ