ok so i timed my car wrong when putting secret cams in and scored the pistons to wear they cant be used. so with that being said i have about $2500-$3000 to built my car iam talking like piston rods bearing rings and a turbo set up. and do you guy have any idea how much this might cost with the turbo kit and rods and pistons,bearings,rings,and LSD,and what about fuel upgrades???
i was thinking about building for N/A but not sure if iam gonna see the power i want i was thinking about 220hp-250hp is that a reasonable hp with all i will be doing ?


Thanks
Paul

Well depending on what you want turbo wise, it could cost you easily up to $3k or more. Turbo and a built motor... now that's where it gets expensive. Try thinking more into the $5k-6k range if not more. I bought most of my turbo kit from adler but still have guages, hptuners, headgasket, etc to buy which is going to put me around $3200 total. I fully believe you could piece something together a bit cheaper but not by much, especially if you want to be intercooled. If you do everything right the first time though, I could see 220-250hp out of a decent turbo setup on a 2.4. I'm hoping to be around 220hp at 10psi on my stock 2.2. Good luck.

Unless you spend 3-4 months scavanging for used parts and do EVERYTHING yourself, I don thtink it will be possible to build your motor AND get a turbo setup together.

all above statements are true.....your talking 3000 for just rebuilding your 2.4 if you are planning on running boost you may as well buy forged pistons and rods because the stock internals blow and are in no way setup for boost.... now if you were talking about an eco rebuild thats a different story just because they are that much stronger and better parts and so on.... i will tell you right now, dont even waste your time and money on a boosted 2.4 unless your willing to fork out the money.....thats where alot of people go wrong with boost, they dont wanna spend any money but they want boost. if you build a forced induction engine, you need to be willing to spend money for good reliable parts and they arent cheap for the 2.4's. but yes doing things yourself can definately save money but building and engine especially one for forced induction is something that needs to be done right by someone who knows what they are doing. good luck.....

how did you wreck the pistons? im about to do my cams and thought it was easy to do? line up the 8mm holes on the spockets and put the chain back and thats its?

nick renaud wrote:how did you wreck the pistons? im about to do my cams and thought it was easy to do? line up the 8mm holes on the spockets and put the chain back and thats its?

LoL in a nut shell that is what you do, but there more to it all then just popin' the housing off. Make sure to check your lifters while you are in there. One thing to remember if you are timed right you can turn over the crank two times and the cams will then still be timed. If they are not then you did something wrong.

make sure you reset the timing chain tensioner, just push it all the way and it will snap out, thats my only advice.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

isnt there a hole to put a small scew driver in and then you release it by pulling it out in the tensioner? do you think im going to get alot of lifter noise. i heard one guy say that after he did the cams? also do you but silicone on the cam covers? and on the cam carrieres along with the gaskets? thanks for the info hopefully put them in next weekend

Can I be so nice to ask who the hell is tellin' you this? First off don't use any silicone on the cam housings, next GM calls for you to take out the tenisoner. Then you put it on a flat area and push it down till it bottoms out. That should reset if you you take it all the down. Then when you are ready to reset it in the car you take a flat head screw driver bottom it out again to release it onto the shoe. 7.5 ft lds is the torque on those bolts.

silicone... hmmm, I hope not, they have some gasket seal or copper seal, I have heard of people using it, but very very very very very very sparingly.

and you have to push the tensioner in to reset it, with a big flat screw driver once it is all bolted into place. no sticking @!#$ in anything. And if you are sticking something into @!#$, just make sure you wash your hands.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

okay thanks for the help, one more thing do you use silicon on the cam carrier covers? i got the gasket set and they have the orange and red gaskets do you silicon them at all? it says to silicon the power steering pump right?

man we are thread jacking abit arent we? man tonght this guy was @!#$ talking with his prelude and i was pissed cause i said let run and he said basicaaly why wste my gas i'll beat you. he said he has 220hp and 160 torque. so man i want to put those cams in and give him a run for his money i guess.

thanks for the info on the tensioner i would of known

actually you have to make sure you have the cylinders at top dead center and we for got to put it at tdp and thats where we went wrong all timing marks were lined up.

Paul Tjepkes wrote:actually you have to make sure you have the cylinders at top dead center and we for got to put it at tdp and thats where we went wrong all timing marks were lined up.

I will have to say you dont understand what your doing.

One...... cylinders one and four need to be at TDC
Two...... When you have the timing marks all lined up, you will have cylinders 1 and 4 at TDC
Three..... There are 3 timing marks..... Crank and each cam

You say the pistons are messed up....... but how are the valves?




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well i dont under stand how it wasn't timed then because all my timing marks lined up and the exhaust valves hit the pistons but the intake valves didn't,

i know i don't understand cuz that would mean only the exhaust cam was off timing but all my marks were lined up i double checked so i don't get it and then we turned the crank freely by hand we turned it 3 full rotations nothing hit. we broke 3 exhaust valves only hit the 2 out side pistons

is there anyway i have the wrong exhaust cam?? or intakes cam?


the vin # on it are

exhaust 225
455

intake 245
742

thats the #s closest to the timing cover

thanks
Paul

sounds like you were out one tooth on the exhaust cam, i've seen it where someone has been out a tooth, can rotate it by hand all they want, start it up and as soon as the heat gets it it smacks. without actually being there or seeing the damage thats my theory.

could also be a few other things


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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

well are the #s right i knew what i was doing when i took it apart so i just dont understand.
and it only ran for like a half sec then i shut it off.
every thing looked good but i just dont want the same thing to happen after the rebuild.

Thanks
Paul