Well did I few pulls on a dyno today. The car is daily ran on 20 psi and like that I made my 1st pass.
1st pass was on 20 psi and pump 93 octane and the car was pulling timing pretty bad so it put down in 4th gear with VSS disconnected. 295.05 hp and 326.22 tq.
That was pretty bad for 20 psi but you can run 30 psi and if your ECU is pulling more and more tming you will NOT make any more power. lol
2nd run was with 2 gallons of C12 mixed in with about 4 gallons of 93 which gave it about 99-100 octan mix and on same boost same fuel pressure just left the way it was it put down 318.13 hp and 341.39 tq.

THAT WAS 23 HP AND 15 TQ JUST SIMPLY RAISING OCTANE 7 POINTS!! lol What a gas.

Next pass I raised the boost and the fuel pressure and richened it up on the S-AFC about 5%.
Total boost about 22 psi and it put down 328.97 hp and 357.55 tq.
I raised the boost another pound to 23 psi and it started pulling timing one more time to give me 335.56 hp and 357.48tq.
If I had more C12 and bumped it up to 105 octane the car would have put down about 370-ish to the wheels.

I was expecting 370 and I got 357 whith timing being pulled so it's all good.
Bill Hahn put down 403 hp on 25+ psi, I think they were saying something like 28-30 psi on a 20G and they were running straight 109 octane unleaded (highest octane it gets unleaded) VP Import with timing being left where it is factory at 18 degree max advance.
Octane matters A LOT GUYS!! I know a lot will back me up on this one. lol

BTW all the pulls on the dyno A/F meter were below 10:1 A/F but my Innovate was showing 12.2:1 on the last pass and this Innovate is pretty damn accurate, acctually dyno did show 10.6:1 A.F at one point for a spread of 200 RPMS.

Next time on the dyno I will have following.
Valve springs.
Titanium retainers
Machined keepers (to prevent valve rotating)
Maybe cams
Adjustable cam gears.
720 cc injectors (right now they are DSM Style Fuel Injection Clinic 650's)

I am hoping I can run on straight 112 or higher octane so that timing is not a problem anymore and the car will be logged while dynoing as well, and 25-26 psi.
I am hoping to crack by the 403 hp or 410 tq whichever.

Also, right now there is so much crank case pressure being formed in the bottom end that it is leaking oil at the oil return line and clamps are small that hold the steel braided line to the fitting in the girdle that it is leaking right there.
I am hoping all the pressure is NOT back feeding up the return line cause return is not pressurized oil and it needs to flow out of the Turbo cause if the pressure is blocking the oil from coming out of the Turbo it could cause premature Turbo bearing failure.
How would I go about getting this situated anyone??
Also, I have a lot of air coming out of the valve cover fitting and I don't have a breather filter on it, not oil just air, but I think I am gonna tap it and run a braided line to a catch can.

If anyone wonders I think this 335/357 hp/tq to the wheels translates with 17% drivetrain loss in a 5 speed car to 392/418 hp/tq to the motor.

P.S. We couldn't get the car to dyno in 3rd for nothing it was spinning on the dyno and my tires are some meaty ones 225/55 R16's.
and also, I broke my Idle Air Control Sensor it fell apart seperated from the plug the white from the black piece and broke the 4 little wires and now the little mechanism it is doesn't work we manualy set it for 1100 RPM's idle.

Also, question for the boosted guys, do you guys run the vacuum to your wastegates from a charge pipe that way the wastegate doesn't see vacuum or from the manifold so that it DOES see vacuum, I was told to run it off the charge pipe it is a lot better as to responsiveness.

Sorry for the long post guys, I am a little excited.
Valve float DOES NOT happen at this particular point in my car.



Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's

If anyone cares BTW, this was done in STD correction and smoothing 2 on a DynoJet which are the same settings I always use, if you want SAE numbers they are about 10 less for the HP and the TQ.

My last pass was dyno run number 94. lol Dyno time at Race Related RULES!!! One of the best shops in Florida!!


Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's

uh, where's the graph? lol

what size turbo are you running again? i forget...

anyway, there's no need to give the wastegate a manifold vacuum source... running it off the charge pipe is fine.

Now, i'm going to try to word this very carefully, because I don't mean to "talk smack" or get anyone's panties in a bunch, but there are plenty of import cars, vw, hondas, etc, with less displacement, and higher compression than your built motor, who are putting down 400+ on 93 octane dude. This is why I keep telling you to invest in some real tuning and stop farting around with a stock timing map and that safc/fmu stuff. 335 whp would be pretty impressive on pump gas, but the fact that you have to use pretty high octane race gas to achieve that number, well, its kind of depressing in a way because you're handicapping yourself when your car could be doing so much more if only you'd get some real tuning going on. I'd say nice numbers, but I honestly can't, because they're not that good considering your hardware. Just recently I saw a t3/t4 50 trim 1.8t over on vortex that put down 344 whp at 22 psi on 93 octane, tuned by a pro, on a mustang dyno, which is far less generous with hp readouts than the dynojet you're using.

Now before I start getting the flames, I'm not saying this to put you down. I want to see your car get to its full potential instead of having band-aid fix after band-aid fix applied to it just to get a few extra horses out of it. The potential of the ecotec is great, but it can only go so far on amateur tuning with limited tools. You're still making more power than probably 99.999% of the people on here, but it could be much much more if only you'd do it right.




Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

hell yeah man! thats sooo sick! good work. I believe that the drivetrain loss for an ld9 with a getrag is 12% from what I remember reading, not to sure about an eco but I can't imagine its that much different being the transmissions are just about the same. Could be wrong tho. Again, sweet job!




Scott

When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.

I'll need that shop's number when things start rolling for my eco build ; )

A couple of tampa guys went out to Bradenton last night. I wish I would have thought to tell you sooner.

Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:uh, where's the graph? lol

what size turbo are you running again? i forget...

anyway, there's no need to give the wastegate a manifold vacuum source... running it off the charge pipe is fine.

Now, i'm going to try to word this very carefully, because I don't mean to "talk smack" or get anyone's panties in a bunch, but there are plenty of import cars, vw, hondas, etc, with less displacement, and higher compression than your built motor, who are putting down 400+ on 93 octane dude. This is why I keep telling you to invest in some real tuning and stop farting around with a stock timing map and that safc/fmu stuff. 335 whp would be pretty impressive on pump gas, but the fact that you have to use pretty high octane race gas to achieve that number, well, its kind of depressing in a way because you're handicapping yourself when your car could be doing so much more if only you'd get some real tuning going on. I'd say nice numbers, but I honestly can't, because they're not that good considering your hardware. Just recently I saw a t3/t4 50 trim 1.8t over on vortex that put down 344 whp at 22 psi on 93 octane, tuned by a pro, on a mustang dyno, which is far less generous with hp readouts than the dynojet you're using.

Now before I start getting the flames, I'm not saying this to put you down. I want to see your car get to its full potential instead of having band-aid fix after band-aid fix applied to it just to get a few extra horses out of it. The potential of the ecotec is great, but it can only go so far on amateur tuning with limited tools. You're still making more power than probably 99.999% of the people on here, but it could be much much more if only you'd do it right.

You took the words right out of my mouth. The only reason adding a higher octane fuel gave you more power that fast is because you were getting detonation and your car was pulling timing to compensate for it. Once you added the higher octane (harder to burn) fuel your detonation went away and your PCM did not have to pull any timing hense the increase in power. Too bad that won't last and might even get worse on the street (but in your case you don't run that much boost on the street so it shouldn't be a concern). Without getting too far into it it will also have an effect on your PCM's fueling and spark tables (STFT, LTFT, VE table, high and low octane tables, etc.) Once that fuel is gone in the tank and you drive around for a bit your PCM will "relearn" the proper fuel trims for your setup on pump gas and it will go right back to the way it was. Now if you were to get an HPtuners (wow suggesting the other product, lol too bad DHP doesn't make anything yet for the j's). you could do up a complete bin file for when you are running the high octane fuel (dyno and track use) and one for normal everyday driving.

You have done some really great things with your setup and the numbers are impressive for sure but with a tuner it really could be so much more and you would have the ability to catch any problems before they happen and at high HP numbers that is what you want. If you don't get a tunner try this, add that high octane fuel, set your boost where you want it and then go for a half hour drive (abviously add enough to get back and on the dyno ). While your out on your drive vary the throtle, cruise a bit, roll into it, go to WOT. I would resist the erge to just stab the throtle unless you have a scanner because you might get spark knock and without a tuner you have no way to tune the AE table (lol..see how you need a tuner?). This will give your PCM a chance to "learn" the new fuel so that when you get back to the dyno you can take full advantage of it.

As for the crank case building pressure. Since you are now turbo'd and running lots of boost your stock PCV system is pretty much useless. If you don't find a way to let the built up gases excape from the block than you will, like you said start to blow out seals and have oil leaks. In fact I just had that problem after installing my IC last year and ended up blowing out two dome gaskets. Most guys just run a line from the top of the valve cover to a catch can, just make sure to put an oil separator in the line. If you are still having problems you might have to run two lines.

Good work so far and keep us updated for sure, good luck with everything.



Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132

nice work man


keep it up





RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...

listening...



15.574 @ 89 mph stock without charger. new times with charger coming soon.

why you dont invest 600ish dollars(what ever Hp tuners cost) is beyond me.

Pllleaase get some serious engine management. I guarantee you'll pull the same numbers or better on 93 octane with the HP stuff.



(website under construction)

I agree with what everyone else is saying!

HpT Pro on c12 with your mods would easily warrant mid/high 400's, maybe even low 500's with extra tweaks besides just fuel curves, timing, etc.


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200

As stated above - those #'s are neither good nor safe Yasmin. Look at Spyhunter, he smashed your #'s on an LD9 with less PSI... somethin is up, you've gotta know it.

Get some management goin before you hurt this engine something fierce... you're playing with fire for sure.

Good luck with it, progress is progress afterall.

-Chris-



-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...