What are the pros and & cons of using a mechanical boost gauge vs an electric one? Im leaning towards the autometer cobalt series and just looking for some help on making the right decision. The only post I came across was someone having a problem with an electrical one, and I wanted some more information on how the two are different. Thanks..
thanks for the help...if thats the main difference between then two then ill probably end up going with a mechanical and save some cash.
only time you want a electrical one really is for things having to do with oil/gas.... you dont really want to be running thoughs into the cabin....
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
my fuel is in the cabin but stainless steal braided lines are used for it.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Respooled2k3 wrote:my fuel is in the cabin but stainless steal braided lines are used for it.
When running a fuel pressure line into the cabin, you're supposed to use an isolator. In fact, it might even be a law.
I run my oil line into the car. Don't need an isolator for that.
i like mechanical guages myself where posible. electrical rely's on excellent contact to wor properly so if one isn't quite spot on, it will give a bad signal. i also run my oil line into the cockpit. never had a problem when done right.
mechanical
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
okay, ive got another question now...lol. How does an Air/fuel gauge differ from an EGT (pyrometer). Not in the obvious sense, but I was told that you can tell whether or not your car is running lean or rich based on the exhaust gas temperature. I'm not even sure if that makes sense I just wanted some clarification. I'd like to run 3 gauges in the pillar. (#1 Boost/vac #2 Oil pressure # 3 egt or a/f.) to give you an idea of what im blabbering on about. Thanks...
and can i jack my own post?
I'd go with Boost, EGT, and A/F in the pillar. You can put the Oil Pressure somewhere else, you don't really need to know what's going on with your Oil Pressure at a quick glance.
Alright, well how do you read an EGT then? I know its the exhaust gas temp., but whats that tell me? Like, what does the change in temperature tell me? Can you elaborate on that a bit, like how the EGT affects everything.
The exhaust temperature (EGT) can give you a rough idea of the cyl. temps. I would go with EGT, OIL Pressure, and Boost. An Air/Fuel gauge is absolutely useless besides the light show it emits. If you really are that concerned with your a/f's, get a wideban- end of story
Blew it up
Yup, mechanical is just fine.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:Yup, mechanical is just fine.
Not only is it just fine, but I'd say it's better. Whenever you can use a mechanical gauge, you want to do so. Electric gauges exist for convenience of running wires instead of pressure lines and, in the more advanced cases, for datalogging and stuff.
I would always prefer electrical over mechanical. Ive heard a few people saying that there boost gauge is off but then i here the same from people with electrical gauges and they say they have no problems with theres
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/827643
boost will be soon for me....
an electrical guage is only as good as all connections done. mechanical, as long as the guage is zeroed, is pretty much fail safe. i believe the issue of some boost guages reading incorrect was addressed in another thread close by.
