can i buy just a turbo manifold for a 2001 2200 engine on my sunfire? i was wondering if i can buy just the manifold from j tuners?? if not where .. besides ebay

yes....................................... and yes............ email jtuners and find out..........

get an ebay manifold..... cheap......reliable...... strong........

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

cc fabs and exploited racing and ebay. the juners manifold is expensive. and make sure you have it ceramic coated.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:cc fabs and exploited racing and ebay. the juners manifold is expensive. and make sure you have it ceramic coated.

JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

The only thing I saw on ebay is a log-style manifold. Is this the only style being offered by the other companies?

I think the Jtuners manifold is tubular. Im pretty sure Exploited and the ebay
ones are all log style.

i'm looking for a tubular style i will see how much j tuners wants for theres...

I love my J tuners. I bought it when it was Cav connections tho.

KEN 2.2 wrote:I love my J tuners. I bought it when it was Cav connections tho.

Same here . But mine was modified afterword for a 3 inch downpipe and for the wastegate to dump into the atmosphere.


275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

hey adler whats goin on .. i wanted to buy ur turbo kit a while back but didn't have the money .. now i do lol anything left for sale that would help me ? what is ur setup ? thanksfor the info

well j tuners said it would be 495 plus shiping for there tubular turbo mani and downpipe jet coated .. not to bad i don't think but then they said that it would take atleast 30 to 45 days to make ... i think i might as well just save up and buy the complete kit .. the only thing that worries me if i have stock internals.. i wouldn't be riding with no more then 5 psi until i build up the spare block i have .. so would my stock 2200 be good for the 5 psi ? with the right fuel and tunning?no inercooler eiyher just a base turbo kit .

^^^ with proper tuning you should be safe in the 6-7 psi margin on stock internals, even.

I'll be sure to let you guys know what the price on our tubular manifold will be when it's done. Might be a little more if we do equal-length primaries, but we haven't gotten to that point yet.

$495 is a good deal for that. I remember Mike was selling it for $600 w/o the coating back when he owned the joint. Also, the design must be more than adequate, considering how fast it spooled Adler's behemoth turbo...



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

blade0604 wrote:well j tuners said it would be 495 plus shiping for there tubular turbo mani and downpipe jet coated .. not to bad i don't think but then they said that it would take atleast 30 to 45 days to make ... i think i might as well just save up and buy the complete kit .. the only thing that worries me if i have stock internals.. i wouldn't be riding with no more then 5 psi until i build up the spare block i have .. so would my stock 2200 be good for the 5 psi ? with the right fuel and tunning?no inercooler eiyher just a base turbo kit .

NO DICE.......................................

I won't condone you to put a turbo set up on your 2200 and NOT use an intercooler................................. the single most important part of the kit if you don't want to blow up in a month.............. even at 5psi...........................

run 2-3 psi non intercooled.................. safely ..... daily...................... anything more I'd start to worry about intake air temperature

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

dont get a ccfab manifold he just throws them together with NO testing...



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

ok well before i do a turbo i wanna relocate my battery to the back like u did lee ... can you tell me how you did that?? and i will get an inercooler just not the one from j tuners .. because a thousand dollars for a inercooler and piping just s ounds ridiculus... thanks for the reply and info .

ya 1000 is rediculous.....................

you could fab up some piping with basic hand tools from one of those 159USD kits on ebay........ an intercooler can be purchased on ebay for around 130USD........ thats much more of a saving and the result will be just as good ...... as long as you have the time .....

as far as the battery relocation. I DID infact relocated the battery to the trunk

Step 1.

disconnect battery, remove from engine bay

step 2.

get 15' of 4 gauge power wire, run along the drivers side of the car

step 3.

connect the 4 gauge wire to the positive terminal that goes out to the cars accesories in the front ..... (the thing that is actually attached to the battery)

Step 4.

Rap it in electrical tape 10000000 times to ensure no chance of ever shorting out or having any exposed metal from the 4 gauge wire and positive terminal. ground out the existing ground in the engine bay..... (I used the rad support)

step 5.

choose desired mounting location in your trunk, drill holes through trunk flooring, install two 2' bolts (might be shorter, don't remember)

use a metal tie to hold the battery down with those 2 bolts that are around 2' long

the metal tie runs across the battery to the holes on each side where the bolts come through the flooring

step 6

find a proper grounding spot on the car in the trunk (I used the mounting bolt for the seat belts since I am gutted)

make sure the ground isn't any longer then 2'

step 7

connect positive 4 gauge wire to the battery, connect the negative 4 gauge wire to the grounding location of your choice...... if the interior light comes on ..... you have just successfully relocated your battery.

Step 8

install turbo set up and let us know how she pulls........

oh by relocating it to your trunk you actually counter weight the batterys weight with your own................


good luck .... if you need pics.... just pm me and I'll host them on my car domain.... unless there are already some there.......


Lee








JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

if u can send some pictures that would be great .. my email address is blade0604@aol.com and my aim name is blade0604 and yahoo is blade06042001

^^^^^^WOAH WATCH OUT BATTERY RELOCATING PROFESSIONAL!^^^^^^^^^^
Sorry Lee but the 8 step program isnt working for me. Im gonna have to find somthing that lets me work at my own pace.. like a 24 step or so.

96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.

2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust

1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.

And the notec critique...

Lee wrote:step 2.
get 15' of 4 gauge power wire

Go bigger. I used welding cable

Lee wrote:Rap it in electrical tape 10000000 times to ensure no chance of ever shorting out or having any exposed metal from the 4 gauge wire and positive terminal.

Use some wire loom and zip ties, save the crappy tape, it's too messy.

Lee wrote:step 5.
choose desired mounting location in your trunk, drill holes through trunk flooring, install two 2' bolts (might be shorter, don't remember)
use a metal tie to hold the battery down with those 2 bolts that are around 2' long
the metal tie runs across the battery to the holes on each side where the bolts come through the flooring

Just get a el-cheapo battery tie down from Autozone or something. It's a red 'H' shape with two jbolts and wing nuts.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

when relocating the battery to the trunk many tracks will require a total loss switch mounted somewhere on the rear of the car with an (OFF) label. by total loss i mean it must be connected to the alternator and unable to continue running once swiched off. My old cavy was set up like this and man what a pain in the a$$ just to move the damn battery. so on this car i moved it to the other side of the engine bay, heck it might just be helping traction a microbit. Oh ya welding cable is good stuff i got a-hold of like 30 feet for free ,saved me lots of money and its massively insulated.