Ok im going boost here soon and im going to invest in a fuel pressure guage and ive heard to go and get an inline one but the problems is i cant find a good one anywhere. Where can i get one? Also would a Autometer ultra-lite fuel pressure guage that goes in my guage pod be just as reliable and easier or harder to hook up?
Im gonna soon be boosted also.
Im using the auto-meter ultralite fuel psi gauge. The electrical one so i wouldn't have to run fuel lines in my car. it works real well, and was fairly easy to hook up. All i had to buy was an adapeter in the line to hook up the sending unit. I think its much better having the guage in the car so i can see what the fuel presser is at all times.
2004 Turbo cavalier 11PSI and blown!
What type of adapter did you have to get for the electrical and how easy was it to hook up? Also how many wires and where do they all go to? Cause i dont understand how you read fuel pressure electrically and nto by runnign wire. Anyone
Mine was really easy to hook up. I have N2O so i have a tee fitting to supply with both. here is a
post and I dont know if it will help you any.
For an electric guage it is just a pressure sensor taped into the fuel line that will send the pressure to the guage electronicly.
~Riki
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Ok...if this isnt a big problem. Im going to be running a cartech FMU that will be tapped into the fuel line. Where should i tap into for the sensor on the fuel pressure guage and if you can, can you give me a list of wha im all going to need to do this. Like hoses, fittings and anything else. I think the FUM hook up looks like this below. Should i replace hte rubber hose with braided lines also or is what is shown good enough? Im just doing my reasearch before i tackle this stuff.
Yea, all you would need is a "T" to hook up the sensor. I belive you would probably put the "T" inbetween the cartec FMU and the fuel rail, for boosted setups.
When i was running the n2o setup i just put a "T" at the shrader valve, and plugged in the sensor there, and it read the fuel pressure well.
But yea, i belive after the FMU cause fuel pressure is gonna be different that stock fuel pressure.
If im am wrong someone please correct me. Because Im soon to be boosted also with the same setup. HRC stage 2!!
2004 Turbo cavalier 11PSI and blown!
I would change it all to braided line just to be safe. (but thats just me) Here is how you should tap into the fuel line for the guage...
1) Relaeve the fuel pressure
2) Take the Schrader valve out (use a tire valve remover to get the valve out)
3) Screw the fuel line into the Schrader valve and route it however you like(use AutoMeter Part # 3227 it comes with the fuel line and all the fittings for the sensor)
4) Put one of fittings at the other end and screw in the sensor (use thread lock on the sensor thread to make sure it doesnt leak)
5) Install the guage in the car and run the wires through a grommet in the fire wall.
6) Plug in and tune away
Now I'm not 100% sure on how to hook up the FMU in there but what I am thinking is this:
Does that make sense? I'm thinking that the FMU should be tapped and returned before the Scharader valve so that the guage gets the correct pressure. My guage gives the right pressure even though it is before my AFPR.
IF ANYONE CAN CORRECT THIS IF I AM WRONG PLEASE DO.
Disclamer: I am in no way responsible if you damage your car or yourself or anyone else while doing this.
~Riki
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So run a line from the Schrader valve. At the end of that line attach the supplied fittings for teh sensor to screw into and thats it. I dont have to have a return for the fuel line at the end of the sensor?
So is this what your saying i need to do. ff of the Schrader valve run part # 3227 from autometer which is the braided fuel line w/ fittings and at the end of that lines put on the other fitting and screw the senor for the fuel guage into that and end the line? Here is a diagram.
Black is the briaded lines.
Red are the fittings
Blue is the sensor
Yellow is the wiring
Yep thats it. The autometer one is long though. Mine reaches all the way to the side between the strut and my clutch res. I dont think you need a fitting at the Schrader valve but I'm not 100% sure. It should just screw in and be the same size of fitting.
~Riki
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So its ok if the fuel line just STOPS at the sensor. I thought it would have to have a return to somwhere instead of just stopping cause it has nowhere to go. Correct me if im wrong
So this is what i need.... The left end is where i can screw it into the Schrader valve and the right side would be where the sensor screws in.
Im not sure if this is right, but doesn't the FMU when you adjust it change the fuel pressure? If it does, youll prolly want to put it inbetween the FMU and fuel rail. But if it doesn't change fuel pressure. Then going off the shrader valve is the thing to do....
2004 Turbo cavalier 11PSI and blown!
i dont wanna make a new post, jus a quick info on what is a shrader valve and is this also on a 2.4 or jus the eco, thank you
I think if you don't put the gauge infront of the fuel reg. it's only going to read while you're in boost.(if it's between the reg and the fmu.)
What if i just tap into the fuel rail and insert the sensor that. That should give me an accurate reading on how much pressure is going on under boost.
Hopefully there are guys with more experience that are going to chime in, but the most accurate place to put a gauge or sensor is right in the rail. If you put it after the pressure regulator you will be seeing the pressure that is returning to your tank, not what is available to your injectors. Also, your FMU should be on the return line after the FPR. It increases pressure once the FPR is maxed out when you go into boost. It might be worthwhile having a gauge branched of your sending unit that is tapped in the rail as well as having one in the car.
Having a fuel pressure gauge in the car seems redundant though, because you should already have a wideband o2 notifying you of any fuel problems. Then, to diagnose these problems you will need the pressure gauge right in front of you in the engine bay. I understand the concern of constantly wanting to know your fuel pressure, but you also need to know your a/f ratios, oil pressures, boost pressures.....how many gauges are you wanting in your car?
Boosted Eco @7psi for now....GTO come spring.....
This is from the fuel system sticky in the boost fourm:
Fuel system modifications
In the turbocharged kingdom, fuel is the king, queen, and town drunk. Most people will buy a fuel management unit (FMU), that goes in the fuel system and increases fuel pressure in a ratio with the amount of boost. Here is how an FMU goes in:
...--[Fuel Rail]--[FPR]--[FMU]--[Return Line]--...
Yes, the FMU goes after the FPR. (Ironically, in some fuel systems, the FMU completely replaces the FPR, this happens in the Hahn turbo kits for the Eco, but only because the FMU they picked also has a boost onset pressure, which regulates the pressure when you are not in boost as well). The FMU takes over after the FPR is fully open (in boost, you are making positive pressure, the FPR is maxed out at 0 PSI), and increases fuel beyond that, usually in a ratio with boost.
Now people who buy fixed rate FMU's are usually just buying the maximum ratio FMU they can buy, which really isn't all that smart. Buying a 12:1 FMU increases fuel pressure 12 PSI for every 1 PSI of boost, and it does this OVER stock pressure. So lets say your FPR at 0 PSI is putting out 55 PSI of fuel pressure, but you are boosting at 10 PSI with a 12:1 FMU... You are adding 120 PSI to your fuel system! This is WAY over the amount of pressure the pump is capable of supplying, and is WAY too much fuel for the injectors.
The best thing to do is to buy an adjustable FMU. These can adjust the rate, usually from 1:1 through 12:1 so you can pick and choose what the best ratio is for you.
~Riki
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He is what my setup is going to look like below. I will have the AEM UEGO wideband 02 in the car all well as a autometer boost guage and the autometer fuel pressure guage. Im just going to tap into the fuel rail like the other picture shown below.
Any objections?
That might be your best bet that way you know exactly what psi is going to the injectors.
~Riki
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