on one of my amps there is a built in voltage display, there is 2 gauge going into 4 gauge to the mono amp and 8 gauge to the the 4 chanel. The capactor is on the 4 gauge to the mono amp which puts out 1100+ RMS...
the voltage display hits 12.1 volts while the car is idling and the stereo up. since there is already a capacitor what is next? optima battery (which one is dirrect fit for 04 cavi)? or high output alternator (where can I buy a direct fit)?
any advise is apreciated
I think before I changed too much, I'd check to be sure that you have everything grounded well. Take a digital voltmeter, start the car, and check the voltage at the distribution block and the cap with respect to the grounding point. They should be the same, and at idle with nothing operating should be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts. Also, if you haven't already done so, I'd ground everything to the same place if it's possible. That often solves a good portion of the low-voltage issues. GMs aren't as bad about it as Fords, though. If that all checks out OK, I'd begin by removing the battery from the car and checking the voltage without any load at all. You might have a battery with a weak cell and the alternator may be working overtime to try to keep it charged. Cells can go bad and you may not know it until either extreme weather hits (which, as you know, it can do in your neck of the woods...I came from that area) or you put extreme stress on the electrical system (which a real system will do). Finally, I'd have the alternator checked. Occasionally, a diode can get flaky and cause the same issue. I'd also wonder if you've upgraded your battery cables under the hood. It is possible that your alternator isn't able to supply the current the battery needs because the charging wire from the alternator to the battery isn't large enough. Be sure you ground the battery with the same size wire as you use for power, though, or you risk heating up the ground wire at the battery and having other issues. Good luck!!
My car is not broken and everything is installed how it should be (i fix cars for a living I knwo when the problem is with the car) idle voltage is the normal 14.4 volts. While the car is idling when heavy bass hits it will touch 12.1 every so often, all I want to knwo is if the next step is a battery or an alturnater
and it is a real system
upgrade the wire from the alt to the battery, and buy a yellow top. then see from there.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I wasn't trying to offend, and hope I didn't. I'd looked at your site and noticed that you worked on cars for a living, but didn't know to what extent. Glad you're aware of that portion of the system and how it functions. I'd also noticed that you had a real system, and that's what I was trying to make sure was understood...seems I missed that mark too, sorry about that. That said, have you upgraded the charging wire from the alternator to the b+ or the ground to the body? I've seen that as a real weak spot in many cars before. I've been upgrading audio and electrical systems for around 19 years and have had to do that in most of the vehicles I've owned for one reason or another....mostly audio, though. If you've done that, and the battery and alternator have tested as good, I'd consider a parallel upgrade to an Optima and a reasonable alternator. Most auto parts stores have available small-case GM alternators that are a one-wire type of alternator and pretty much universal. We've put one of those in a 1997 GMC 1500 with 3 Xtant amps and two Optima yellow-tops. With his cap, his voltage stays around 14.4, where it should, and only drops to around 13.7 during hard-hitting fast-attack transients, which is very respectable overall and gives excellent sq. Again, sorry if I offended, I wasn't intending that. Hope this helps!
BTW, just checked www.optimabatteries.com, and their site doesn't show any direct fit for any of the cavis. I can't believe that, honestly. I'd check their site for a dealer near you (there's a dealer search function, hopefully it's accurate), and visit them for a face-to-face. There may be something they've done that Optima hasn't documented yet. HTH
no harm done, no hard feelings
I'll try battery to alturnator wire and engine to chasis gorund and see what happens, regardless I'm gonna change to an optima or add an optima and do the alturnator cause the planning for the next system is already in works
take the cap out and see what your voltage does..i wouldn't be surpised if it went up.
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for the power your running...an alternator shouldn't really be needed. the first thing you should do is upgrade the big 3...you'll notice the voltage won't drop as much after you do that. are you on a stock battery as well??
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Good idea. I've got a 200 amp (or so...haven't been able to peg it on a VAT40 yet!) small-case custom-wound GM alternator in my Ford. Got the Ford before the Cav, so it's gotten the toys. The Cav is to save on gas...wonder what your prices are...they're around 2.20 here in MO. When I was in Mt. Prospect over Thanksgiving, they were already much higher than here. Back to the alternator, though, I don't know what the original cost on it would have been, but I'm sure it was nuts. The guy I got it from was just trying to get it out of his stereo shop...someone had given it to him as payment for something he'd gotten. I picked it up for a measly $50 when I was desperate for an alternator....7 Ford alternators, four 1000ca batteries, and 2 high-current welding-capable regulators after I started the install.....OUCH! Glad I didn't offend, thanks for the quick reply!
I just took a look at your profile, and it listed your system as an SPL system. If this is the case, than a cap most likely isn't the best way to get the most out of your equipment. When the amp starts trying to reproduce notes that take a lot of power to create, it first draws current from the cap, which it's happy to supply, then from the battery. While the battery is supplying the amp, it's also trying to recharge the cap, which it isn't able to do effectively. If you're looking for pure SPL, I'd consider setting the cap on a shelf. SPL-only systems are often better off without them. Caps work better in high-transient environments, such as extreme-sq systems. Just got to looking at that, and figured it might help out a bit.
Caps are great devices, but they work best in the correct type of system. HTH and GL
aqua95 wrote:I just took a look at your profile, and it listed your system as an SPL system. If this is the case, than a cap most likely isn't the best way to get the most out of your equipment. When the amp starts trying to reproduce notes that take a lot of power to create, it first draws current from the cap, which it's happy to supply, then from the battery. While the battery is supplying the amp, it's also trying to recharge the cap, which it isn't able to do effectively. If you're looking for pure SPL, I'd consider setting the cap on a shelf. SPL-only systems are often better off without them. Caps work better in high-transient environments, such as extreme-sq systems. Just got to looking at that, and figured it might help out a bit.
Caps are great devices, but they work best in the correct type of system. HTH and GL
hahah everythign in my profile is a joke all the real info is on my site. Everythign I have I got for sound quality, its a full Alpine system, Type R subs, 6.5 inch components, 6X9's Alpine IVA-D300 in dash touch screen, ALpine V12 amps powering everything, quality wiring, lots of dynamat, the subs are in a sealed box thats meets there specs, all profesionally tuned ect... I wanted sound quaility and be able to listen at high volume and still have it perfectly clear.... its exactly what iwas going for but I got a nice suprise of having the subs @!#$in pound!! its hits hard and clean I love it
oh and live about a blcok away form Mount Prospect... I filled up in Schaumburg today for 2.41 or somethign t rediculous like that
Oh jeez! That's crazy! Glad I'm not there any longer. My wife and kids wanna go back and tour Chicago, so I guess I'll take them sometime. Possibly this summer before the prices go completely through the roof. My sister still lives in MP, so we've got a place to stay. My niece is graduating from college in Champaign soon, but we won't be able to make that due to my travel sched with work. My first year in high school was at Forest View (it was the last year it was open before they closed it for a time...tells you how long ago THAT was!).
Ok, so the profile is a joke. Got that loud and clear (pun intended!). In that case, as you'd understand, the cap is definitely recommended. You can check my profile if you want and take a look at #3. It's the beast from the nether world when it comes to mods....at least of the electronic nature. Most of it is custom-built, including the signal cables, and I didn't list them. Head back a couple of posts and watch me eat my words
That should help a bit!
Whic optima battery was it agian?..if its the red top..you can use the same one as N bodies use..
On my digital in dash volt meter, i regularly run 11.0-12.1 volts when my bass hits. Then again i have to infinity bass link T's, and 2 infinifny Basslinks.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
the optima for our cars is the 34/78
I have a Optima Yellowtop in my car. Pics on my site - link under my sig.
I went to TNT Automotive by my house and they only had one model of YellowTop so I got it, and it fit just fine.
I like it cuz its got top and side posts so Im using the side posts as they were stock, and the top for auxileries.
I was reading in the little booklet that came with it... its says "Use the side posts for factory electronics only. Use the top posts for factory or aftermarket electronics"... Why would it matter what posts you use?
Also... If you do get an Optima, a YellowTop would be what you want. Reds are starter batteries, not meant for big drops like the Yellows are.
Any other questions? lol im seaking a sponsorshiop from Optima thats why I know so much lol.
AS FOR THE ORIGIONAL QUESTION OF THIS POST... When my car idles with lights, subs, neons, everythign on... I hit about 12.2 (Digital readout on capacitor) at a bass drop. I dont think its anything to worry about.
My elec setup isnt much... stock alternator (105 AMps?) Optima YellowTop, VR3 1.0 Fared Cap, re-ran the "Major Three".
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... The YellowTop also comes with a warrenty. If it dies for ANY reason, they'll replace it.
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my lights dim when i turn my heater on...guess i need a cap for that huh?
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Since your car doesn't have an electric heater, You should probably have that looked at.
You're sarcastic remark was probably meant to refer to the fan, right?
well considering the heater and blower come on at the same time....when i turn my HEAT on...the lights dim...
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Everyone else with a 2003 cavalier has the fan come on when the switch is taken out of the "OFF" position.
The heater "comes on" because of redirection of the airflow through the heater core when the temperature knob is turned to the heat position.
Darkstars, sorry about jacking your thread. I'm done now.
