I have a 1100 watt memphis amp that is running my 3 memphis` 12" subs, well I went to the car place that I deal with and told them that I would like to upgrade my system because I want more base, well they said that with the 3 subs I have, I should be pounding the heck out of my ears and I shouldnt need to upgrade, well hear is what they said.......
I am running 8gauge power wire and it is supposed to be 4 gauge,they told me to upgrade....
Each sub is supposed to have 1qf, well I cut it down to like 9"x1' per sub, they told me to make a box that it 1x1....
Do you guys think it would make a difference?
yes, and yes. Def upgrade to at least 4 ga, if not 2. And then make the new box 1x1x1. It will make a difference. And you will hear it.
Brakes? I don't need no stinking brakes....I have air bags
http://members.cardomain.com/charlzo_2000
yep..what he said
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build the box(es) exactly to the specs that came with the subs, get power wire that can handle the amount of power you're trying to pull, make sure your ground is adequate, and make sure your amp is putting out the wattage those subs want too. With 3 12's, you should be able to wake the people on the next block if you want to.
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Hell hath no fury like a pissed off balloon animal.
"Sup, G?"
"Aren't you white?"
"Only on the outside, craka."
Jason, how do you figure you'd get more bass out of a less-than-ideal enclosure? I've had boxes too small for a sub, and it was crap. As soon as I got the box re-built to spec, it was a million times better.
Brakes? I don't need no stinking brakes....I have air bags
http://members.cardomain.com/charlzo_2000
I believe he's working from the fact that less air means less energy needed to compress it. Correct me if I'm wrong. The thing is, those specs aren't just numbers they thought up. Those are the numbers they've tested to optimum performance.
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Hell hath no fury like a pissed off balloon animal.
"Sup, G?"
"Aren't you white?"
"Only on the outside, craka."
Bloodspiller wrote:Those are the numbers they've tested to optimum performance.
manufacturer specs are not always optimal....
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Offical dealer for the following-
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DB LINK
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really? Elaborate, I was under the impression they were.
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Hell hath no fury like a pissed off balloon animal.
"Sup, G?"
"Aren't you white?"
"Only on the outside, craka."
the manufacturers specs are generally a run of the mill spec. think of a car. why do we get more hp out of an engine by swapping out the intake? because the manufacturer sacrificed a bit of hp, to get the engine queiter, we wanting hp are willing to sacrifice the quietness of the intake for something a bit louder if it will give u an extra hp or two. when you say optimum, the question is optimum for who? and spl and a sound quality will have to distinctly diffrent boxes with the same subs because optimum for them means two diffrent things. so the manufacturer gives you a safe guidline to run in. that does not mean its the best size for everyone out there.
i stated less then ideal enclosure size, when your dealing with a sealed enclosure you can generally go 20% bigger or smaller then the recommended size and still be within comfortable working perameters. go smaller then recomended and you will generally gain a small amount of spl. the downside is the sub won't play as low. go larger then recomended and youlle generally lose a few db's but the sub will play a lower frequencies.. i'm in it for sound quality so i want the sub to play as low and as accurately as it can, but at the same time i dont want to take up all the space in the trunk, so i go as big as i can without taking up to much space. also to consider is a certain generic enclosure size they give you might not be optimum for your car, i always give the manufacturer a call and talk with their tech department, let them know what i got and what i'm waning and in what car and they can guide u a bit more on the optimum enclosure.
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