2003 Cavalier LS Sport
Electrical is:
Big 3 with 1/0
2 Stinger SPV70's behind front seats with 1/0
1/0 to distro block.
Ground block uses 1/0 to chassis
Hardware:
Cadence CWM-6KIT (using mid in kickpanels crossed 80-300hz)
Memphis M Class 6.5 components glasses into door panels with tear drop baffles. will play 300hz-ceiling.
RE MX 15" (getting reconed by resko on CACO)
Amps:
Planet Audio AC 1200.2 for Memphis comps
Cadence 2x60w @ 4ohms for midbass drivers
Planet Audio AC 4000.1 for RE MX
Gains will be set using DMM, plenty of 1/0 and 4awg to power everything. Planning on sealing the deck off from the trunk for a half wall. I want to break into the 140's on music daily and be able to tune it a bit higher and maybe go 150?
Only time will tell.
If u plan to use those cwm mids for midbass, you're about to be severely disappointed.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
God I hated my Memphis speakers. Sounded like I was listening to music through a couch.
You will not need a half wall to go 140. I went 140 on music with a 15 Type R in a very very nonoptimum box and 1k amp. If youre in it for shock factor more power to you but its not necessary. Done right you should be able to do 145+ out of the trunk on music with the right gear and tuning. Id max out the trunk before moving into the back seat. It puts you in a higher class for dBDrag and takes away all of your passenger area. These cars actually do a hell of a lot better out of the trunk than every gives them credit for. You have a factory folding rear seat. Its awesome and good for bumping the dB level up a point and a half (atleast on my old setup).
Youre going to need more alternator. Dont expect a stock alt to take all of those batteries and not burn up fast.
Not to be an ass but I really think you need to stop and think about how youre going to go about this before you start cutting and spending money. He who fails to plan, plans to fail.
Best of luck!
"Sounded like I was listening to music through a couch". Added to my vocabulary. Thanks fggt!
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
I'm going to guess install had a lot to do with it since everything will be in a sealed fiberglass pod with Polyfil.
I have a JL A6450 6 channel for my soundstage and I'm looking at a Hifonics HFI2000D for my substage now.
As for the substage, I might not do a half wall. However, it won't put me into a different class because I won't be modding the interior to that extent. However I think I'm going to try a trunk setup first. Question is, can I do a 4 cuft enclosure after port and sub and be able to install/remove it? What is louder is the Cavaliers as far as sub and port positioning?
I saw "real build" and then a list of cheap gear. Kinda disappointed man.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
I had a JBL GTO 12 and a Sony xplod amp with the cadence comps on a cadence sqa-2.
Wasn't the worst for having under $300 in the setup.
Now I should have around $1k including batteries and a alt rewind.
Question though, is there a shelf bought HO alt for the Ecotec cavaliers?
Pretty sure most any alternator rewinder or builder can do it. But a high output alternator isn't cheap.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
AND, isn't the Eco one of the motors that the GM large case swap works on?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
No, unfortunately it's on the 2200 not the Ecotec.
Would make life much easier haha. My 105 keeps up for now but I know I'm going to need more. These batteries are insane. this JBL and xplod won't drop below 13V no matter what haha.
Only bad thing is that local shops just do HO stators so I would have horrible output at idle and max output at like 3krpm. Classes around here are like 1200rpm max.
Kenwood MP435U - $140 BNIB a few years ago, works for now until I move to something nicer
JL A6450 - $175 in like new condition
Soundstream DTR1.2200D - $200 shipped in good condition
Memphis M Class 6.5" comps - $100 shipped in good condition
Cadence CWM 6.5" midbass drivers
RE MX 15" with custom recone with some goodies
2 Stinger SPV70 batteries
Monster 1/0 Big 3 and Shok Industries 1/0 to rear for batteries/amps
I'm trying to figure out how to do all of this cleanly. Problem is, a 4cuft box doesn't leave a lot of room for a decent amp rack with some 120mm PC fans...
Instead of telling me my equipment is junk, you could provide some input to make what I have sound good. I can remove those CWM mids for something better if I need to haha.
If your amps are properly placed, I don't see the need to have any fans. Are you dead set on enclosing them?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
if you want extra midbass find a manufacturer that has a 3-way componet set so all your speakers are matched and crossed over properly. there are seveal quality brands that have that option.
for that sized box id build it down into the rear spare tire well. you can get at least a cubic foot or so just out of that. that means your actual box won't need to be as big.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
Got any pics of incorporating that into an enclosure? I was planning on filling it with foam and covering the top with fiberglass.
How would I properly attach it? The only issue I'm having is the fact that I don't want to build the box in the trunk. My last box was 3.3cuft tuned to 35hz. Was loud for what it was and I could remove and install it. A little trimming of the rear deck and I can get more depth with the same height and width and fit something closer to 5-6cuft if necessary. This RE MX will get a box close to 3.5cuft but I'm going to go a little smaller on port area for some cone control since I will be running 2200w RMS to it.
And this amp actually clamped 2300w starting at 1ohm rising to 1.8 and voltage falling from 14.0 to 12.28
Originally I wanted to do 2 SA 8's in the tub by itself but that's ok, I don't use my trunk for anything anyways. Still, sub back port back or sub forward port forward?
sub forward port side
trust me!
and fyi my box is 5 cubes, with a HUGE amp on top of box, spare battery and nothing int he spare tire well.
ANDDD if you plug up your spare tire well kiss .5 db good by! lol
click sig for my car audio videos
Yeah I've seen your vids on YT haha.
Sub forward and port on driver side, right?
You mean to say I would lose .5db by filling the spare tire well? How? Lol
Zach Reliford wrote:Yeah I've seen your vids on YT haha.
Sub forward and port on driver side, right?
You mean to say I would lose .5db by filling the spare tire well? How? Lol
its acoustics, not really sure how to explain why the spare tire well being wide open helps the score. lol my best guess is that it helps with the air flow by giving the air more room to "breathe"
click sig for my car audio videos
