first off, i have a cobalt in which the doors just won't seal up property for me to have a decent mid bass so i am thinking about either moving my mid bass component or building an enclosure for it. i wish i could just run some kick pods but since i have a manual the clutch would be on the way so i really only have 2 choices which is somehow make a custom enclosure and somehow attach it inside the door or moving the driver upto an a pillar (that's the only other reasonable place for it) or perhaps somebody can give me some other idea how i can make it work?
Get yourself a 2"x2" round port, cut out a hole in the (sealed up) door to fit the port. The port itself will stick out in front of the metal by about .75" to clear the window but it will still work.
This is what I did, and it TRIPLED my midbass.
Of course it depends on the speaker, but this is a good place to start because it's the longest port you can fit. If it doesn't sound right, cut it down.
btw the door is 1.750 cubic feet. Don't ask how I know
Someone filled his door with packing nuts...... didn't he..... lol
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
JLAudioCavalier wrote:Someone filled his door with packing nuts...... didn't he..... lol
You make it sound so dull. I
SHOT packing peanuts into my door
hahahahaha
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
also i cannot find a recommended enclosure volume for my JL C5 6.5 speaker.. does anybody know know?
No theyre crap. Most speakers are designed for infinite baffle (a really big enclosure - your door) and they wont benefit from those foam cup dealies. Most speaker companies wont give a recommended enclosure size because as I said before they arent designed for an enclosure per-say
A VERY general recommended enclosure size for your average midrange driver is about 0.3 cubic feet
did anybody on here place a mid range speaker that was designed for infinite baffle in a sealed enclosure?
would it sound better that way?
i really can't seal the door completely because i have too many wires running through it hence the leaks kill lower frequencies and looks as though building an enclosure is the only way to go, but i would like to hear some inputs from somebody who's done it..
I ran my spx-177r midrange in a sealed kick for a while. It was about .2 cubes and it sounded good. A little ringy, but not bad. It gonna depend on the speaker.
the reason why my door won't seal up is because i have aftermarket window kit conversion with whole bunch of wires running through the door as well as window motor and wires from components, all together there's a lot of wires running through the door which makes it difficult to seal the door completely..
still wouldn't even a speaker that was designed for IB benefit from a sealed enclosure due to increased air suspension to the cone??
C5 aren't meant for impressive midbass. They hold their own in a sealed door but if you can't seal the door you'll never get midbass without building a very custom door panel.
Andrey B wrote:the reason why my door won't seal up is because i have aftermarket window kit conversion with whole bunch of wires running through the door as well as window motor and wires from components, all together there's a lot of wires running through the door which makes it difficult to seal the door completely..
still wouldn't even a speaker that was designed for IB benefit from a sealed enclosure due to increased air suspension to the cone??
So was mine. Just start running the wires the right way. Thats all I can tell you.
wires should be ran thru the rubber wire loom grommet in the door itself so it shouldn't be an issue really sealing up the rest of the door. your main issue is just the area around the speakers, cover the rest of the holes with wood. or metal. or just a few layers of sound damping sheets. as as said, some speakers just arn't as impressive at midbass as others. thats generally why ive rant 3-way componet sets. so i can have a dedicated midbass driver.
sure midbass drivers can benefit from a sealed enclosure. but you need to know the proper size. build one to small and your actually going to lose allot of midbass. and then there are our doors. the windows roll all the way down to the bottom and usually are close to touching the magnents on most door mounted speakers. so you'd have to build out away from the door and there isn't allot of room there.
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that's true, i guess i will try and throw a few more layers of butyl to try and seal the door...
quick question though, in my cobalt i have schoshe gm adapters which are poorly designed, what would be the best way to seal the speaker with these adapters, especially around screw holes??
i prefer to make my own wood adapters. sturdier, no flex or vibration issues. less likely to warp etc etc etc. even then i will seal the baffle to the door itself with a thick layer of foam between the wood and the door panel. and then a smaller layer of foam between the speaker and the door pod. usually if you look at door and window weather stripping it comes in various sizes and thickness that works rather well.
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