I was fiddling around with my iPersonalize settings a bit tonight, and I cam up with these settings for my head unit's internal crossover:
I *think* I've matched them pretty well with the speakers.
The tweeters for my component set have a response range of 4kHz-22kHz. That it denoted by the teal dot/slope.
The mids have a range of 70Hz-4kHz. The high pass and low pass are denoted by the two green dots/slopes.
The sub has a range of 20Hz-200Hz, the yellow dot/slope. Now, it's set to 12dB/Oct, cutting it off at 100Hz. If I went to 6dB/Oct, it would go all the way out to 400Hz.
If anyone who knows more about this than me could help me out a little, I'd greatly appreciate it. Truth be told, I actually barely even understand what I did. I just tried to match up the numbers on my specs sheets with those numbers.
Usually the guy who does our tuning sets everything as steep as possible so there is less overlap of frequencies being played by more than one set of speakers. I have a different headunit, but the last time I used Ipersonalize it gave me precise settings for time delay and everything.
^CLICK ME TO SEE HOW I BUILT EVERYTHING^ How To in Interior Forum
i personally try to use at least a 12db slope. 24 can be good in allot of instances but it just varies on the situation. for my sub i try to keep it around the 50-75hz and under range. anything over 75hz and you can start pinpointing the sub and hear that its behind you. generally under 75 hz its hard to tell that the sub is in back (if you have done some other things as well.) then i tune my midbass to play as low as i can get it before it starts breaking up. tuning to the specs of a speaker is great but once you install it in a car the parameters will change. things like location, rattles installation can alter what will sound best.
hard to read the gragh but it looks like you have your lowpass x-over set on 20hz. thats way to low. when i tune i'll turn the sub off and tune the mids and highs first, getting them to play as much info as loud as they can without any distortion.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
Well hey Jason, when I get my speakers in and everything, wanna help me tune it? I'll bring beer or money.
it looks like a good starting point, but sndsgood is right, your tuning should be done in the car. the flat bandpass style filter you have for your mids sounds like a good idea, but in practice, when you get something in the car you may get some cancellation for various reasons and may have to have that bandpass filter more curved then flat.
this is why i prefer to tune with an equalizer in the car. you can do a lot of things with an equalizer that will surprise you.
so like i said,good starting point, but now you just have to tune it for how the speakers will play in the car.
1997 RedR - ZedR
