Im looking to get either 2 or 3 alpine 10" type R subs. Is 2 loud enough or should I go with 3. and also what amps should i get?

3 isn't loud enough, you should get 8.

2 is fine for a sound quality but u might need 9 to blow ur doors open, maybe 10

How loud is loud for you?

2 should make metal move in the right box with the right tune and the right amp.

Then again, if you have 3, you can say "I have 3"

Im no help!

Alpine subs are pretty load, even the 10 inchers, so 2 should be enough, 3 or more is usually overkill unless its a comp car. Personally, I like the sounds of 2 12's. As for as an amp, I would go with alpine there to, just get one that meets to power requirements for your subs, and tune it correctly. If your running 2 subs, your better off to go with a 2 channel amp, or 2 mono amps. If you buy a 4 channel amp and run both subs bridged, you tend to run into problems, and severly shorten the life of the amp (don't believe it when best buy tells you I'm wrong). You can always use one mono amp, and wire your subs at 2 ohmes, just make sure everything is set up to be wired that way, and it's powerfull enough. Oh, and the box you use plays a BIG factor on how loud the subs are, I'm partial to 3 chamber bandpasses, or sealed boxes, but make sure your subs don't "require" a certain box type. Example= Infinity Perfect 12" subs is desinged for a sealed box (or they used to be anyway), that will give you a start point

dude, that was so...so... SO wrong.... amongst all the completely rediculous info in this thread, you then go on to say "with 2 subs you should run 2 mono amps or a 2 channel amp" right... because one mono amp giving both subs everything 100% equaly and efficiently wouldnt make any sense right? one efficient class D mono amp rather than 2 of them or 1 less efficient a/b 2 channel....* rollig my eyes *

1- 2 of them might satisfy me, but not you, if you are a basshead and want more and can afford more and afford the power for more, get more.

2- a ported box for 2-3 type-r's is going to take up quite a lot of your trunk space

3- budget?

4- other options other than type-r's?

5. this thread is rediculous all around.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.

I have 2 Kenwood KFC3010's from EHR's clearance for $100 each

and 1 alpine Mrp 450 monoblock

everything shakes
the rear virw mirror rattles
door panels rattle
glove box vibrates
trunk massively's vibreates
windwos vibrate, too.

and it massages my back at the same time

(im not lying about this, and im not bragging [im not even sure if i have a right to, and im sure i'll get flamed for this.], im just stating what I have)

Thats a good setup for me... I can hear it from 2 blocks away.

i would go for 2 12's, like weebel said...but like i've allways said...personal preference...

and what kind of BOX are you getting, will you have anough room? may want to consider those, before getting 3 subwoofers...


Good luck with that.

Thrice . wrote:i think you should go back and try to actually order some cam valves. see if he has any in stock. then ask him to give you an actual price and show you the website or anything legit about where he orders from...for all you know he is this dumb, and orders things that don't exist....he's probably got 10 of those ebay transistors that gave him eleventy hundred pony power....what a douche.

AJ, if your trunk and windows are rattling with 450W, you're clipping and your equipment isn't going to last. Unless you found some speakers with like, 115dB sensitivity or something, you're damaging them.

if i heard someone from 2 blocks away, i would kick em in the balls... annoying fukin kids and their "i wanna be heard miles away, by people who dont wanna hear my damn music" attitude... you will mature some day and realize that OTHERS hearing your music from blocks away, and rattling ur car DOES NOT equal good sound


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.

If you can hear your car from even 1 block away, then you should probably get some sound dampening. I have two of my makeshift 8 inch wired to 3 ohm ported small box subs running a total of 300 watts, and it barely touches my right side mirror. Although my rearview is rendered damn near useless while playing music, and my left is a little shaky. So technically, you shouldn't be hearing that bass from 2 blocks away. Plus, if you know the sound is traveling, keeping it in the car will kick ass. A truck flying down the road setting off car alarms with it's bass hits is annoying and only slightly impressive. But a car that is almost perfectly silent on the outside, but almost deafening on the inside is f@ckin sweet, and more impressive by tenfold than the truck is.

As for ammount, well, I can only answer that question with another question for you. 'How many light bulbs should I get for my apartment?' You can't answer that can you? Didn't think so, so how do you think we feel? Now go back down to the bottom of the page and reply with the kind of music you listen to, whether you still want a trunk afterwards, and whether you want to hear treble or not. Only then can we answer that question, and even then it will be hit or miss. You can answer the question better than anyone else can. Do you want 2 or do you want 3? Your choice... flip a coin if you have to.

if you're a single man you only need one lightbulb... you bring it from room to room


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.

im not turning this into a competition of whos right and whos wrong.


I agree with yopu on the kick in the balls theory, i only did it once to see, and yes the music was @!#$ sound


i dont want this to start into a war, but i didnt ask for your opinion, with all due respect.


i was merely stating what mine can do, and what he wanted might not be that.

AJ

Thrice . wrote:i think you should go back and try to actually order some cam valves. see if he has any in stock. then ask him to give you an actual price and show you the website or anything legit about where he orders from...for all you know he is this dumb, and orders things that don't exist....he's probably got 10 of those ebay transistors that gave him eleventy hundred pony power....what a douche.

bradsk88 wrote:AJ, if your trunk and windows are rattling with 450W, you're clipping and your equipment isn't going to last. Unless you found some speakers with like, 115dB sensitivity or something, you're damaging them.

good point... i beleive it's 93? Db sensitivity...

to fix that, i should turn down boost from 6Db (what EHR set it at) to 4Db?

msg me, so we dont take over this thread.

AJ wrote:im not turning this into a competition of whos right and whos wrong.


I agree with yopu on the kick in the balls theory, i only did it once to see, and yes the music was @!#$ sound


i dont want this to start into a war, but i didnt ask for your opinion, with all due respect.


i was merely stating what mine can do, and what he wanted might not be that.

AJ

and yes, i totally HATE it when im woken up at 2 in the morning by some fcuknawt booming all the way down the street...

Robert Freeman wrote:If you can hear your car from even 1 block away, then you should probably get some sound dampening.

i'm in the process... I allready re-did the interrior with new underpadding and it cuts road noice down quite alot.
im usint the stock padding to line the trunk temporarily until i can buy more of my amazing-pad lol

Thrice . wrote:i think you should go back and try to actually order some cam valves. see if he has any in stock. then ask him to give you an actual price and show you the website or anything legit about where he orders from...for all you know he is this dumb, and orders things that don't exist....he's probably got 10 of those ebay transistors that gave him eleventy hundred pony power....what a douche.

Just get a 2-channel amp if your running 2 subs and be done. (thats what car audio shops always have said to me) I was just listing variouse options.

OK, here we go... I have two 12" sony's in my car and there so dang loud that my windshield wipers bounce a little on the windshield, and the bass is really high quality. (If I actually turn it up that far). I have them in a really good box though. If you set everything up right, I dont see why a couple of cheaper kenwoods couldn't sound good. You don't have to have expensive parts or lots of power to be loud and still retain quality, if you know what your doing.

WHY DOES EVERYONE THINK IT IS SO NECCESSARY TO HAVE 2 CHANNEL AMP RUNNING TO 2 SUBS?!?!?!?!?!?1 IT IS NOT EASIER TO WIRE 2 SUBS TO A 2 CHANNEL THAN A MONO....


AND A D CLASS MONO IS MORE EFFICIENT THAN A 2 CHANNEL CLASS A/B AMP... WHY ARE YOU SO ADDEMENT ABOUT TELLING HIM NOT TO SAVE MONEY, SAVE ELECTRICAL STRAIN, AND SIMPLIFY THINGS BY GETTING A MONO AMP?!



On the other hand....you have other fingers.

KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.

^^^ No sh!t, get two dual 4 ohm VC subs and wire it down to 1 ohm and use a good class D monoblock

has he actually said what he wanted to accomplish anyway?


If not, this topic is useless...


I was told the same thing... streo amp not as good as mono, even in bridged...


im glad i got my mono, instead of a stereo...best investment ever...

so yeah, what exactly DOES he want to do with it?

Thrice . wrote:i think you should go back and try to actually order some cam valves. see if he has any in stock. then ask him to give you an actual price and show you the website or anything legit about where he orders from...for all you know he is this dumb, and orders things that don't exist....he's probably got 10 of those ebay transistors that gave him eleventy hundred pony power....what a douche.

bradsk88 wrote:AJ, if your trunk and windows are rattling with 450W, you're clipping and your equipment isn't going to last. Unless you found some speakers with like, 115dB sensitivity or something, you're damaging them.

that alpine amp actually puts out 400 RMS and aruond 600 MAx, so that could ratttle some stuff. i have the same amp with one 12 and it vibrates a lot of @!#$ and is pretty loud.

Yeah, that was my mistake. Products are usually labelled by max wattage, so I assumed that was 450W max

it's odd....

Subs are 200wRMS
400MAX
1000Peak...


I thought there were only RMS and Peak...

Does it mean it can run 200 to 400 RMS? (200 being MIN, 400 being MAX)????


I'm confused...thats why i let EHR do it...

but THAT WILL NEVER HAPPEN AGAIN

cables ALL OVER, in the way of the clutch..., caight between the rear seats... pretty bad...

they ran the RCA's along the power cable...
just a mess...

Anyhow...

I should post a new thread, to see what im running at, series or parallel, and to see if they did it right...

Thrice . wrote:i think you should go back and try to actually order some cam valves. see if he has any in stock. then ask him to give you an actual price and show you the website or anything legit about where he orders from...for all you know he is this dumb, and orders things that don't exist....he's probably got 10 of those ebay transistors that gave him eleventy hundred pony power....what a douche.

Peak and max are the same thing, max is just more commonly used now. Say what you wan't but I did my complete system myself and it sounds great, if not better than most I've heard, and it's far from a simple system (although I need a new amp before I can proove it to anyone.)

Weebel wrote:Peak and max are the same thing, max is just more commonly used now. Say what you wan't but I did my complete system myself and it sounds great, if not better than most I've heard, and it's far from a simple system (although I need a new amp before I can proove it to anyone.)

400 != 1000

According to Alpine's website. It's 400WRMS into 2 ohms, 220WRMS into 4 ohms. I'm guessing it would then be 1000W peak.

alpine cva1003, alpine 6 disc changer, alpine 3 way components, alpine digital eq, q logic kicks, Visonic 1/2 din indash dvd, 5 channel mtx amp, and 8 inch rf punch stage 2 for my s10, no goin down the road setting off alarms with bass there. I love sq (but dont flame me over the visonic). But I also love draggin frame in my truck. And my 2 10 dvc Apline Type S's and MA Audio 500wx1 RMS amp too in my Cavy are plenty to fill the car with bottom compliment or flat out boom...and my trunk doesn't rattle like its gonna fall off...that dynomat solution will actually do a ton of good for your sound.