Ok so I have replaced the alt and the battery yet still have huge problems. When sitting at a light or in the drive thru my voltage drops so low after like 5-10 minutes that it throws the ABS light on. At that point its down to about 9.6ish. When I start my car it will jump to 14 then slowly decrease to 12ish and when I hit the gas it will vary from 13-14 pending on how long the car has been running. Now someone at work said its my voltage regulator but I called autozone and cragin and they said they have nothing listed under that name. So what could be the problem could I need a big 3 upgrade or do you guys think I got a bad alt still?


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Oh yeah and to add I have nothing hooked up besides the deck and power windows that havent been messed with since long before this problem started. So it shouldn't be any of my wireing that I have done after market since none of that is hooked up still.


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take it down to wherever u choose (autozone, adavancE, o'rielly's) and get it tested.

my problem is similar, voltage gets so low at idle that sometimes my deck will shut itself off, i've done the big 3 though.

Voltage regulator maybe?

sunflowerpower wrote:my problem is similar, voltage gets so low at idle that sometimes my deck will shut itself off, i've done the big 3 though.

i have the same issue, im running an rsm underdrive crank pulley though. i do have a 180 amp alternator and have done the big 3 as well. i cant wait to ditch the UD pulley and get a stock sized on there. i wouldnt recommend an UD for ANYBODY-these cars just dont like them when it comes to the charging system.

steven c. wrote:Voltage regulator maybe?

If you read I said I called a few places and they don't list a voltage regulator for our cars.

z yaaaa wrote:

sunflowerpower wrote:my problem is similar, voltage gets so low at idle that sometimes my deck will shut itself off, i've done the big 3 though.

i have the same issue, im running an rsm underdrive crank pulley though. i do have a 180 amp alternator and have done the big 3 as well. i cant wait to ditch the UD pulley and get a stock sized on there. i wouldnt recommend an UD for ANYBODY-these cars just dont like them when it comes to the charging system.

I have had underdrive on my car for years now and no issues. This problem just started a about 6 months ago


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someone anyone?


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Someone please help me heh.


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im sayin the UD pulley finally claimed its victim

Your car has a Powertrain Control Module to control the Alternator, which explains why no regulator was listed.

See if this link helps:-.

With the engine stopped, disconnect the battery +positive cable and disconnect, check then reconnect the plug on the Alternator, reconnect the battery _ve cable and see if the system is charging---this was where Shadows found his problem (see link)

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=121772&t=121772

If this does not fix it, I would adopt the following procedure:- (As in the link)

1. Disconnect the Battery Positive and Negative terminals--check/clean so they are "shiny" clean ready for reconnection.

2. Check the Fusible link in the Large gauge RED cable from the Alternator to the Battery (This is probably located at the Starter solenoid "Junction"

3. Disconnect the Negative Battery Ground cable at the Block and chassis connection points--(although I've never seen one it's under the Battery tray in some models.)--"shiny" clean the cable end and the Ground connection points.

4. The Alternator feeds a signal out of the F terminal of the Alternator plug/skt to terminal 53 on the Powertrain Control Module(PCM) and receives a signal back from the PCM terminal 74 to the L terminal on th Alternator plug. Check these cables and connections.

If all is correct the Alternator will charge the battery through the B+ (Large) connector on the Alternator, through the large gauge RED cable /Fusible link/Starter solenoid junction/cable to Battery +ve.

A shop should be able to test the system without removing anything---if you have a friendly one nearby


Hope it helps


Alont

When I get back to SD im gunna replace all the wireing from alt to batt and what not the big 3. Replace the posts and then if it still does nothing I guess I will just take it in and hope its cheap. I don't have the knowledge to track all those wires down to the pcm and test them. So hopefully its not gunna cost me an arm and a leg or the cav is gone.


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it's the pulleys i had them on my 2200 for about a year and no problem then the same problem you have and i also had 2 battery's hooked up. i put the stock one's back on and havent had the problem yet.

Ok so here is onething I foudn out last night when I came home form leave to a dead battery. I got the battery fully charged ut it in then went to drive it. Sputtered a few times when I went to drive it. SO parked it poped the hood. Heard a weird clicking sound coming from the coil packs. So I closed the hood so I could see better lighting sucked to see sparks. SO I noticed my coil packs are sparking from mounting bolts to coil packs and from throttle cable to spark plug boots. SO I moved the throttle cable ontop of the intake and that fixed that one but still have the issue of sparking from mounting bolts to coil packs. The best part is my idle voltage jumped to a consistant 13.2 once moving the throttle cable. Now tell me that isnt @!#$ up and really weird. So hopefully once I replace my coil packs and wires the issues will stop


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i bet you are praying to god its not the ud pulley arent you lol

n8ball2013 wrote:i bet you are praying to god its not the ud pulley arent you lol

It'd not never affected me before and im positive its still not. Once I moved the throttle cable outta arking range my voltage jumped to normal. But I will keep you guys posted on if it stays the same or not later this week.


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Before you spend the money on coilpacks, try just replacing the wires first. They may have just worn out so high voltage was leaking and jumping to the nearest ground (your throttle cable and coil-pack mount bolts). Also be sure you put a little dab of dielectric grease in the boots, that will help seal them from the elements, and help keep the high voltage in the wires where it belongs.

Greg Z. wrote:Before you spend the money on coilpacks, try just replacing the wires first. They may have just worn out so high voltage was leaking and jumping to the nearest ground (your throttle cable and coil-pack mount bolts). Also be sure you put a little dab of dielectric grease in the boots, that will help seal them from the elements, and help keep the high voltage in the wires where it belongs.

Ok just replaced the wires and boy did the car come back alive. Never really woudl have thought it would be hurting my performance that bad. The connctors on the coil packs were corroded as hell so I cleaned them up to a nice silver shine and replaced the stock wires with some bosh wires. So far still no serious voltage drops. I should know in about a week if that fixed my problems completely or not.


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