Looking for some components for the doors. Anybody have some for sale, or can make a good recomendation on brands and where to buy them. Also, what size is better, 5.25 or 6.5?
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
Let me start with my "opinion" since everyone else's "opinion" is going to be different. Go with the 6 1/2's, they're a bigger speaker, more cone area, usually more power handling than a 5 1/4. I personally love my Lanzar Optidrive 6.1's, but everyone else is going to say kicker or infinity or fosgate.
Jeffrey...you KNEW I would comment on this thread... and your last sentance insults me! RF, Infinity and Kicker are FAR FAR FAR from the top of my list of brands I would recomend for component speakers!
Ok, just like the sub recomendation thread I commented on in here, there are a few questions you need to answer before we can even begin to give recomendations.
1. What kind of music do you like and what kind of sound are you looking for?
-- Smooth, soft, laid back and more "natural" highs are going to send me towards CDT or Alpine Type-X components.
-- If you want more definition and brightness in your highs, I would say MB Quart, Boston or JL audio.
-- If you want better low end response from your mids, I would probably stay away from CDT's lower line of components, and again probably send you towards JL or CDT's higher end lines.
2. What is your budget?
-- I highly recomend getting a 6.5 inch component set, good set of 3/4 inch MDF baffle/spacers and a good amp to push them all at once. Deadening the doors and coving the access holes is another realy good idea to get the best performance out of your components, specificaly low end extension and front/rear wave seperation.
-- All of these things aren't "cheap" such as buying a set of pop in coaxials and calling it a day would be. But also remember, your front stage is the most important part of your sound system when you care about good musical reproduction and not just booming bass.
3. What sub(s) do you have? What kind of box, and if ported, how is it tuned?
-- This will give us a good starting point as to blending the fronts with the subs.
-- You want your component set getting the power they need to perform their best, and this is especialy important so that your subs are not overpowering your fronts.
That is all I can think of right now, answer those 3 questions and I might be able to suggest some good components to look into. I personaly would say go audition some at local shops, it's better than blindly buying a product. Although a soundwall isn't going to sound anything like in-car.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
JLAudioCavalier(1bad02cav) wrote:Jeffrey...you KNEW I would comment on this thread... and your last sentance insults me! RF, Infinity and Kicker are FAR FAR FAR from the top of my list of brands I would recomend for component speakers!
Ok, just like the sub recomendation thread I commented on in here, there are a few questions you need to answer before we can even begin to give recomendations.
1. What kind of music do you like and what kind of sound are you looking for?
-- Smooth, soft, laid back and more "natural" highs are going to send me towards CDT or Alpine Type-X components.
-- If you want more definition and brightness in your highs, I would say MB Quart, Boston or JL audio.
-- If you want better low end response from your mids, I would probably stay away from CDT's lower line of components, and again probably send you towards JL or CDT's higher end lines.
2. What is your budget?
-- I highly recomend getting a 6.5 inch component set, good set of 3/4 inch MDF baffle/spacers and a good amp to push them all at once. Deadening the doors and coving the access holes is another realy good idea to get the best performance out of your components, specificaly low end extension and front/rear wave seperation.
-- All of these things aren't "cheap" such as buying a set of pop in coaxials and calling it a day would be. But also remember, your front stage is the most important part of your sound system when you care about good musical reproduction and not just booming bass.
3. What sub(s) do you have? What kind of box, and if ported, how is it tuned?
-- This will give us a good starting point as to blending the fronts with the subs.
-- You want your component set getting the power they need to perform their best, and this is especialy important so that your subs are not overpowering your fronts.
That is all I can think of right now, answer those 3 questions and I might be able to suggest some good components to look into. I personaly would say go audition some at local shops, it's better than blindly buying a product. Although a soundwall isn't going to sound anything like in-car.
hit the nail on the head.
Elemental Designs
Performance.Mobile.Audio.
alexl@edesignaudio.com
Warehouse Manager
Okay, I hadn't planned on running subs. I've got alpine 6x9's in the rear, and they are powered by a Kenwood Excelon amp. The doors are also powered by another Excelon. I don't want a boomin' bass set up. I like clarity and crispness. I listen to a variety of music styles from rock to the occasional hip hop, and maybe some jazz if I'm feeling it. I'm looking to spend a couple hundo on these, but would like to remain under that. As far as where to mount them, I'd like to put them in the doors, but also conidered the kick panel enclosures. Without the subs, are components sound overkill, and would I be better off with a nice set of 6.5 coaxials? I appreciate all of the info.
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
Dustin, i was at work boss. I didn't feel like making a drawn-out post and mentioning focal or ed or rainbow and getting into sound stage and canceling and phase and the whole nine yards. It would make my hands sore and the other kid's nose bleed, so thank you
Honestly, I would consider getting a sub to pick up the low end, a good set of comps to pick up the mids and highs... subs arent just for the street beating home boys looking for a crap ton of bass..
here is a good gneralization of a decent sound stage...
get a sub to pick up the low end, run the high pass filter on your amp at about 100hz (without a 3 way passive, or active with dedicated midbass, a lot of cost effective mids cant handly trying to play much lower than 100hz)
get a good set of 6.5 inch coaxials and an amp to run them, high pass the amp at 100-120hz.
your crossovers will seperate the midrange and midbass to the 6.5's and the highs to the tweeters
Now, what model amp do you currently have the rears running off? I personaly think having the REAR speakers amped is a horrid idea.. especialy when not planning to amp the fronts, or having stocks up front for now.
I understand you don't want to spend more than a couple hundred bucks on your front stage and you don't plan to run a sub... but if you upped your budget a tad, it wouldn't cost thousands to get a realy nice sound stage going on. I am going to post again with some more recomendations.. just want to get links for you so you can see that it doesn't take a ton of money!
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
OK, lets pretend for a moment that you aren't using your Kenwood amp when you redo the system. In all actuality, it might put out enough clean power to run your front stage fine, and you wont need to get a new amp for that. But I am going to pretend we are starting with nothing but a good HU and stock speakers...
We are talking getting far better than stock, but keeping budget in mind... Fairly easy to do. Rather than listing 20 amps, 20 speakers and 20 subs that would work, I am going to list just 1 of each so you can get an idea of costs. Basicaly, "What would Dustin do if he was trying to set up a decent system on a low budget"
1. Front stage(most important when getting good sound out of your music, and where most of your money and focus should be spent):
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=126&idproduct=194
These comps are amazing! (im actualy still running the tweets from this comp set even with my redone system, and NOTHING is wrong with the mids of crossovers, I simply change my mind all the time). ALSO, if you are seriously considering these, I know a rep who works directly for Cadence and might be able to help with the price a little.
2. An amp for that front stage.. what good are kick azz speakers if they don't have enough power to show you what they realy can do?
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=566
I realy like Soundstream amps. They put out their rated power, they're clean, and they don't cost an arm and a leg! And this one in particular puts out just the right amount for those comps to work to their full potential!
3. A sub... Just one single 12 inch sub to pick up the low end. No need to go over the top for a clean, solid subwoofer. But at the same rate... they're built to reproduce low end that your speakers just don't want to play.. Don't you wanna hear ALL of what was recorded in your music?
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=31
Nice clean sound quality for a dam near unbeatable price! And it will perform well in a not-so-huge sealed box, and also isn't overly power hungry. An amp feeding it 300 watts RMS will get the job done just fine.
4. An enclosure, now a simple sealed box for that sub made from 3/4 MDF to the right specs for that sub, I should be able to get for you for under 100 bucks no problem. Custom built by the guy who does all of my enclosures and does AMAZING quality work.
5. An amp for it. As I stated above, 300 watts RMS will get the job done.. and efficiency with such a moderate power requirement isn't a major issue, so I would suggest another one of these:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=564
Bridged it puts out more than enough power for that sub. And why not have 2 matching amps for your whole system if they perform perfectly for your needs? Will come in handy if you build any type of fancy set up to show off at shows. Plus, I recomended the 2ohm version of that sub for a reason... this amp is stable at 4 ohms when bridged for a sub...well... is you take a dual 2ohm coil, you can get 4 ohms out of it for perfect wiring to get all the power out of that amp!
6. Wiring.. finding a power wire kit that comes with 4 gauge main power and ground, distribution block, and short runs of 8 gauge to each amp will definately get the job done, but seems to be hard to find for a decent price these days. So here is what I suggest:
Go to Knukonceptz.com and find one of their 4 gauge amp install kits... then you can get a dist block and a short ammount of 8 gauge from them as well. you will also need one more set of RCA's as the kit only includes one.
Hope this helps
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
That's actually a lot of info to rpocess, but the prices look pretty good. As for the wiring, I already have 4 gauge to the two amps, into an 8 gauge dist block. As for the sub, how big of a box do you think it would have to be for that size sub. I need my trunk, and don't want to lose a lot of space back there. The only reason the 6x9's are amped is because I don't have subs in the trunk. I don't think I'll be changing the amps. I've never had a problem with Kenwood products, and think they put out pretty good power without distortion. Maybe that says a little about how good an ear I have, as it seems to me most audiophiles on here don't care for Kenwood for some reason? I am defineitely interested in the components though. You said you know guy? Thanks for all of the info. I'm saving this post so that I can refer back to it as I build this system.
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
Yeah, I know Jason who works for Cadence. And that component set, discounted or not is an AMAZING value
As for box size that sub only needs about 1 cubic foot of airspace.
If you wanna keep your amp and get another Kenwood, that's cool too. We all got our preferences, but I trust those soundstreams to put out at least their rated power... I dunno how I feel about most of Kenwood's ability to do so, and the build quality i KNOW is there with soundstream. But if you like kenwood, i am not gunna say you cant keep using them. what amp model are you running your rears off right now?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
i am pretty sure the SQ10 would be a good match for what you are looking for, an 11Kv.2 doesn't need much space either, I am in love with my 13kv.2 I have. They build good quality products that perform well at good prices... can't realy say anything bad about em at all
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
I am very familiar with it, like I said I am running a K in my own car right now... I honestly dont think you will be disapointed in them at all... Alex Lindeman works for eD, he will be able to tell you more of what you want to know (now stop jacking this dudes thread lol)
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
I have CDT CL-61A components up front and a 13Ov.2 sub, and I'm very happy with the sound and simplicity in a front comp/single sub setup. That looks like a killer price on the Cadence comps that JLAudioCavalier posted. How do those compare to the CDTs I'm using JLAC? At that price I might get them, well, just because they're almost too cheap to pass up.
Bone Stock Z I believe you could get a pair of the Cadence comps mentioned and amp them with one of your Excelon amps, then add a 11Kv.2 or 13Kv.2 for the low end. eD makes some nice subs that won't break the bank.
Go to a few audio shops and listen to the speakers. I used to have Alpine Type-R's and replaced them with Boston Acoustics (
BA SX60 6.25"). I really like the clarity and depth they provide and I won't be switchin them out unless the die.
-Chris
You know - just a thought - anyone who can set here and tell you they have two 12's in a box, it's ported, and tuned at XX, is probably not going to be asking for help on what kind of speakers to choose from. Just a thought, as it totally looks like this question was nuked a million times over.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2508821
I've got two Excelon amps, one is a KAC -X201T rated to 300W, and he other is a KAC-X301T. Both are two channel amps. The head unit also has separate RCA sub only output if it makes a difference. Again, thanks for your help. I'm not looking to win shows, but I like my music clear and high quality, and I spend a lot of time in my car. I'm really interested in the cadence, and if the box is small enough, then maybe hooking that up too. Shoot me a PM, and we can discuss.
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
Know one knows eD products better than me.
If you have any questions about the 11kv.2, 13kv.2,SQ10, 6000v.2's let me know. I can gladly answer,
or shoot me an email alexl@edesignaudio.com
Elemental Designs
Performance.Mobile.Audio.
alexl@edesignaudio.com
Warehouse Manager
Alex, thanks. Is a single ten inch going to be enough to compliment the components? Also, where would you recomend mounting the enclosure for the best sound, and does it need to be ported. I believe JLaudiocav siad he knew someone that could build an enclosure for me, but I need ideas for where to mount it forthe best sound without it being too obtrusive in the trunk. You guys are being of great assistance.
Thanks, Bob
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
best and simplest way to get the best sound out of your sub and keep as much trunk space as possible is to put the box up against the back seat, facing the rear of the car. one single ported 11kv.2 will surprise you in output and wont require a large ported box. With speakers it is best to go listen to some and find what you like. There are so many different ones to chose from. But my personal experience and taste will tell you, in the $120 and less price range, CDT Classics that are clearing out of the 2006 stock on www.wooferetc.com and the cadencesound.com CWM-6 Kit components will be extremely hard to beat.
And as for the enclosure... yes JD at East Coast Custom Enclosures does phenomenal work and builds all the enclosures that I use or recomend.
eD also makes enclosures for their subs, I dunno how the price comparison will be to JD, but wether you get it from them or from JD, you are getting a quality product!
Quote:
You know - just a thought - anyone who can set here and tell you they have two 12's in a box, it's ported, and tuned at XX, is probably not going to be asking for help on what kind of speakers to choose from. Just a thought, as it totally looks like this question was nuked a million times over.
Quote:
thomas, not only did what you have to say mean nothing to this thread.. It also didn't help anyone out.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
I'm trolling ebay for some deals beacuse of limited funds. Can you offfer some suggestions of what to look for as far as specs and brands?
Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N
on a budget... CDT, Cadence, Alpine, Phoenix Gold will all have decent sounding budget comps...
As far as getting your moneys worth, I have got to say the Cadence CWM-6 components are very hard to pass up.
ohv- I am a HUGE fan of CDT components, I love the mids on those Classics. I would say that I favor them slightly over the Cadence ones... price for performance I would be very hard pressed to chose one of the other though.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
