Hey all, got another question for you. I'm planning on running a dual amp setup (a mono-block 400w for my subs) and a 4 channel 300w for my door and back deck speakers. Since my front speakers max out at a much lower wattage than my back speakers (4x6 vs 6x9), are the channels adjustable per channel so I don't blow my front speakers to get the most out of my back ones?
Oh, plus, I was wondering exactly how do I get a wire from my battery to the trunk of my car for an amp and how do I get to the firewall to run the wire through? Along with that topic, how do I attach the wire to the positive battery terminal when there's a rubber protector around the lead currently conected to it, do I need to get somekind of dual cable adaptor or something?
Hey, final question, I promise. I just ran 16 awg wiring thoughout my car from the back 6x9s to the HU, since the leads going to the HU look to be 20 awg and the leads to my speaker seem to be 22 (why? I don't know, sony really messed up on that one didn't they.) should the new wiring inbetween running the length of my car make a difference because it doesn't appear as though it does, would switching out the back 6x9 leads from the 22s to the 16 strait to the terminal work? I have a 2002 cavilier ls sedan. Thanks all.
And to clarify that last question, basically I want to know whether the sound from the HU to the back 6x9s is limited at all by even a few inches of smaller awg cabling.
all i gotta say is get help when u install your system. or preferably have someone do it for you
As far as I know, there is no way to lower the wattage going out of one channel, other than the gains on the amp.
When you run your power wire, run it through an existing grommet in the car, I believe there is one behind the brake booster that you can use, to hook it up to the battery, disconnect the battery terminal, and use a ring terminal to connect it up. Don't forget to put an inline fuse, between the amp and the battery. You usually wanna put those close the the battery end of the wire.
If you are going to run 2 amps, why would u run speaker wire from the head unit to the 6x9's, just seems like a lot of work to me. But to answer you question, the new wire wouldn't make a difference, there isn't more power going to the speakers. To tell you the truth, I wouldn't even bother doing anything else to that stereo, until you have all the components (speakes, amps, wiring).
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the shorter the wire the more it can handle before it starts losing volts. meaning say an 8 gauge wire 10' has 1 volt loss. well run the same power thrun 1' of 16 gauge gives you 1 volt loss. the loss is the same even though the sizes of the wire is diffrent because your going allot shorter distance. so you dont need to have huge sized wire if your only running a coupe of inches. thats just an example on the losses. im not suggesting that is what you'd get but you should get my point.
as for your power wire, look along the driver side of your firewall you should find a grommet that you can run the wire thru.
for your amp if its a 4 channel amp you should be able to adjust the gains sepertaly from front to back and adjust the sound accordingly. if it has a built in crossover work with that because a speaker running full range that distorts at 100 watts may be able to play 150 watts just fine if you cut the bass out it. so adjusting the crossover will allow you to run a bit more or a bit less power depending on how you set it up.
i'd also suggest finding a friend in the area that knows a bit about car audio to help you.
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