ok, so i was gonna run dual-batts...
has anyone done this?
i know i need an isolator. stinger makes one that is on ebay for about 25 bucks.
should i run zero gauge from the first batt to the relay to the 2nd batt? is that necessary? should i run the ground for the 2nd batt all the way back to the first batt, or just ground it to the chassis?
what about mounting? hold-down brackets?
just looking for any advice i can get before i start this project.
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
For my dual-battery setup, I used 2 ga. battery cable through a 200 amp circuit breaker, then back to my trunk. I didn't use an isolator, so it's not a NEED really, but it'd be good to have one I suppose. I grounded the second battery on the chassis in the trunk, but I'd do at least a chassis to battery (-) up front so it'll complete a circuit. If you have the big 3 done already you'll obviously already have that done. For holding it, I have a bracket built in to my amp rack, but you could drill a couple holes in the bottom of your trunk (make sure not to hit anything) and use a tie-down kit for it.
Here's a quick diagram I drew up in paint.
i have a 135a circuit breaker for sale cheap if thats the route you want to go
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
I don't think that would be a sufficient breaker though. 2 awg calls for 181 amp, while 0 awg calls for 245. For a 135 amp breaker, 4 awg wire would be the best match.
so 2 awg will do fine...great! i actually have some of that @ my house.
i was going to fuse it under the hood, and in the trunk, because im anal with wiring like that. (i dont think its a bad thing)
i havent done the big 3 YET...but ive got almost all the materials necessary, its my next project, obviously BEFORE dual batteries. all i gotta buy is a fuseholder, and im good to go, just wanna solder everything up, i even bought a propane torch so i could solder the 4awg wires into their terminals for a permanent, reliable installation.
dont ask how or why im doing this..i bought a batt when i didnt need to, so i didnt wanna put it to waste.
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
that's how I ended up with my dual batt setup. Turned out my new alternator was faulty, not the battery. Fusing it on both ends is a good idea, I just opted for the breaker since it'd be cheaper and more convenient than having to replace a $5 fuse each time it blew. If you're going to the trunk, you'll need about 15 feet of wire, just a heads up if you don't have that much.
i got about 20 feet of brown 2awg...but im anal with my wiring, i wouldnt use it for positive. if i had to juryrig something temporarily, thats one thing... but like i said, im anal.
i gotta pick up another 15-20 ft of 2awg postiive, some 2awg terminals, an isolator, a battery hold-down bracetry assembly (or make one i guess)...and i guess thats it. not too difficult it seems.
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
Mine's been wired like Pilz-E's wired up for almost 2 years now. No problems at all.
i have positives connected and second batt grounded in trunk been that way for about two years now.
do you guys drill a hole in the trunk floor for the ground, do you run it to the frame somewhere, or do you ground it to the seatbelt bolt? thats where i was gonna go... is that gonna be a good enough ground?
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
I used the seatbelt bolt in the rear.
when connecting two batteries like that...you MUST fuse each end within 18" of the battery. Having a circuit breaker just on one side is worthless.
In the case of a short, the only part of your wire that is going to be protected is from the breaker to the first battery. If your breaker is under that hood...then your screwed.
also just ground your battery to the chassis. If you have a ground block for your amps, it makes it super easy. You wont gain anything by running a ground back to the front battery.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
wysiwyg wrote:when connecting two batteries like that...you MUST fuse each end within 18" of the battery. Having a circuit breaker just on one side is worthless.
In the case of a short, the only part of your wire that is going to be protected is from the breaker to the first battery. If your breaker is under that hood...then your screwed.
also just ground your battery to the chassis. If you have a ground block for your amps, it makes it super easy. You wont gain anything by running a ground back to the front battery.
what size fuses should be used for the 2 spots in the line from batt 1 to batt 2?
300 amp I want to say. Your alternator (and batteries) can spike in amperage, alternator while pulling a load, batteries when they're shorted.
everyone said 150-200A for the fuses...i saw that on the big 3 how-to. should i put in 300A when i attack that project too?
what did you guys do to mount the trunk batteries? make custom bracketry? anyone by chance post pictures?
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
fuse depending on the size of your wire..for 1/0 use a 250 amp on BOTH ends (that's very important)
To mount my optima in my trunk, i snagged a battery tray from an s-10 at the junkyard, works great. bolted it to the floor and then it has the little rubber piece on the bottom that holds the battery in.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
and the batt doesent move at all? i would think it would shake a bit...especially with the way i drive...id wanna bolt it down from the top with a U-shaped bracket
_________________________________________________________________
this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
mines in the spare tire well.
lundis wrote:and the batt doesent move at all? i would think it would shake a bit...especially with the way i drive...id wanna bolt it down from the top with a U-shaped bracket
why would it shake? It's it a factory battery tray and bolted to the floor.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
