YEa so I wired this baby up at 1 ohm for 2 12 inch subs and the amp is 1 ohm compatible. Today the subs sounded really distorted so i checked the amp in the trunk. I couldnt touch it for more than 2 seconds if that cuz it was so hot. Could it be because its not 1 ohm stable? how would i wire it for 2 ohms?
If it wasn't one ohm stable then it would shut off.
What type of subs DVC, SVC, 8ohm, 4ohm???
All you would have to change would be the wiring of the subs.
That should help and if not, i would say something might be wrong with your amp.
-Seth
yeah it just shut off now as i was listening to music so i guess its not 1ohm stable
Or do you have the gains set right?
What does that mean ?? I dont have the gain all the way up if thats what youre talking about.
gain should be less then half.
Check my sticky up top, it'll tell you how to properly set your gains.
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:gain should be less then half.
Gains should be set to the output of your head unit, not some arbitrary position. If the guy had really low voltage preouts on his deck, he may very well have to set his gains to 3/4 or 4/5 for his amp to make full output.
Like Lanman said - there's a proper way to set gains, and it's stickied at the top.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
all of the amps I've ever had, the gains max out at 4v, and I've had a few decks that have 5v preouts... Then you get into the bass drivers that pump the signal up anywhere to 8v to 13.5v... how would you set the gains for that? Just keep it at the minimum?
You set them all the same way - preferably with an RMS multimeter or an O-scope.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
so pretty much until the multimeter says the amp is running at what it's rated?
If the amp is overheating that much, chances are yes, the amp is not 1 ohm stable, or if it's a 2-channel amp (which it's not cuz I remember doing the diagram for ya

), same thing will happen if it runs 2 different loads. I remember my 2-channel 600w Directed amp. Blew up because back in the day I decided I could "tune" the bass to the treble by connecting my house subs to one channel, and the 6x9's in the car to the other channel, and use the balance on the deck. Never gonna do that again... $290 down the drain right there XD
ok well heres the stats on my amp:
Amp: Directed Audio 750D
Dynamic Power Rating: 750 watts
S/N: > 80 dB
Freq. Range: 20-250 Hz
Damping Factor: > 50
Input Sens.: 150mV to 8V
Rated Power @ 4 ohm: 275 Watts
Rated Power @ 2 ohm: 400 Watts
Rated Power @ 1 ohm: 600 Watts
Rated Power @ 4 ohm Bridged: 800 Watts
Rated Power @ 2 ohm Bridged: 1200 Watts
Crossover: var. 18dB low pass, 30-250 Hz
Bass EQ: Yes 8 dB
RCA Output: Yes, MONO
Protection: T,S,D,R
T=thermal, S=short circuit, D=DC offset, R=reverse polarity,
The gain i have on there is deffinatly less than half. But i think my frequency is pretty high. I dont even know how to set that one. I havent set the gain correctly yet cuz i dont have a multimeter, yet, but how would i set the frequency? Also, i have LPF and HPFon my deck, both have the options of doing 78 or 128. So you think if i set these gains correctly it wont overheat as much as it did or shut off? Cuz it did shut off the one day
Frequency doesn't matter. The lower the frequency, however, the more voltage it's going to be pushing out. Also, check your subs with an ohm meter, make sure they're at 1 ohm, not lower.
the main thing after reading this i think dealing with audio and video for like for ever, lanman is right in a point, get an ohm meter and make sure your not droping them down below 1 ohm, you could have them wired at .8 ohms .5 ohms and so fort, also, some amps that i have come inconact with in training acouple years ago, even though they say 1 ohm stable the might not be 1ohm stable, alot of manufacturers do that so you can use them in SPL contest and DB drags meaning you use them for a minumum amount of time.... as far as the amp getting how, your subs seem to be pulling alot of power, possibly more then the amp can handle meaning once again they could be wired lower then the amp can handle hope that helps
just riding around in the 4 door cav
20jbody02 wrote:as far as the amp getting how, your subs seem to be pulling alot of power, possibly more then the amp can handle meaning once again they could be wired lower then the amp can handle hope that helps
subs dont pull power from the amp, amp pushs power to the sub

... or were u just sayin the resistance is too low for the amp to handle lol
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good. 
LOL
20jbody02 wrote:lanman is right in a point, get an ohm meter and make sure your not droping them down below 1 ohm, you could have them wired at .8 ohms .5 ohms and so fort,
you can't measure impedance with an ohmmeter, you can only measure resistance. whatever you read with your ohmmeter is lower than the actual impedance. A good rule is to multiply the resistance reading by 1.3. That should get you close to the nominal impedance rating.
Lanman31337 wrote:Frequency doesn't matter. The lower the frequency, however, the more voltage it's going to be pushing out. Also, check your subs with an ohm meter, make sure they're at 1 ohm, not lower.
Voltage stays the same (it's dependent upon the input signal voltage and gain setting) You get a higher current output at lower frequencies due to the lower impedance at lower frequencies.