Hey,
My plan is to put one
Alpine Type-R in each corner in my trunk by the taillights and having each powered by their own
Alpine MRD-1005 amp . They will be in a box made of fiberglass with mdf front so they look "molded in". My question is, will this combo work good (any other better suggestions-sticking with Alpine) and will this sound good in this position so far in the back. Also, I know the sound changes with how big the box is but i'm not sure on the specifics of how it changes. How big would I want to make the box?? Also, they will be sealed with no ports or anything.
TIA
-Seth
I know u smarty audio people are out there somewhere
-Seth
the depth of the box really does help at times but certain subs come with certain allowance of airspace, to much airspace could cause the cone of the sub to shift and to little could cause the speaker cone to burst in some cases, Alpine Type R's are ok but other subs maybe rated betterm don't just look at the magnet size or foam on the cone size, check to find if the are SVC, single voice coil, or DVC, dual Voice coil, or QVC, quad voice coil, mostly 15 inch subs, DVC are rated the best as far as smaller subs like 8, 10, or 12 inch and 15 inch, top name brands are not allways the best I.E. MYX 9500, when the Orion H2's are rated better, if you have more questions just email me at dracc11@aol.com. hope this helped alittle, remember check air space, and i really don't think the subs that far back would effect the sound, but it would increase raddles in the trunk that close to the lid and lighting.
just riding around in the 4 door cav
The only two concerns I would have with your setup would be (1) cancellation issues in your trunk, and (2) getting enough airspace for your subs to perform properly. Sealed boxes that are smaller than 'optimal' will lose low-bass extension. Larger boxes are more efficient (louder with the same amount of power) and will hit lower.
While it is very true that enclosure design does affect power handling, I HIGHLY doubt that you will have to worry about cones "bursting". You usually only see things like that happening in SPL vehicles that are putting 3-4 times the recommended wattage (or more) into a sub. The TCAB guys on realmofexcursion.com have shown that the type-rs can handle ALOT more than their rated power, so you should be fine. You can, however, easily toast your voicecoils if you clip your amps - just make sure your gains are set properly on both amps.
I think I should say something about what was mentioned above. First off, the size of the magnet has very little bearing on the quality of the speaker. Take neodymium magnets for example. Neodymium magnets are literally 10 times the strength of a normal strontium magnet, and can be 1/10th the size of an average subwoofer and still do it's job properly. Strong magnets can be small and still outperform large magnets. Don't use that as a criteria for judging subwoofer quality.
As for voicecoil configuration, there isn't a single "best" design - NONE!! The entire purpose of SVC, DVD and quad coils is to provide more flexibility in wiring in order to get the most power out of an amplifier, and therefore the most out of your subwoofer. The "best" configuration is not DVC, but whatever is required to get the most out of your system. Seeing that your type-rs are dual-4 ohm, and each amp is 2-ohm stable, everything should be A-1.
As for what brands are the best, take everything that people say in these forums with a grain of salt. We are all biased when it comes to our equipment. I could just as easily say not to buy H2s and go stroker because it's what I run in my cavalier. It all depends on what you want and what you're going for. Your Type-Rs are probably the best bang for your buck under $600. Stick with them, and let us know how everything turns out in the end.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
To deal with the cancellation issue what I would suggest is the have the face of the boxes angled so the subs aren't facing directly towards each other. Those subs look like a good match with those amps to have one on each sub. The sub should come with the manufacturer's recommended sealed box volume, but sealed boxes are very flexible. Like Trogdor said, smaller box will give you less low end response, but it will sound tighter and more accurate. Larger boxes will give you more low end, but it has slightly less control over the movement of the sub.
-Chris
Ive already begun on this exact project a couple weeks ago one corner enclose is almost done im putting my 2 pheonix gold xenon 12" dual 4 ohm subs in them once there done and ive got my fingers crossed like you that it will sound good or else ill have to make something else
smaller boxes on sealed applications wont usually sound as accurate. they will have more spl but will have a less smoother responce and a loss of low end. larger sealed boxes will have a flatter responce and play lower frequencies better but at the cost of some spl.
i wouldnt wory to much about the cancelation issues unless they are pointed directly at each other. if yoru really worried just make a pair of standcard boxes and stick them in the trunk and have a listen before u start with the fiberglass work.
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