I JUST SWAPPED A 90 HO GTZ 2.3 INTO MY 95 CAV, IT HAD A 2.3 BEFORE, I HAVE SWAPED THE INTAK CAM FROM MY LO TO THIS BLOK LEFT THE EXHAUST CAM, BUT I KEEP OVER HEATING WHEN I IDEL FOR 5-10 MINS WHEN I KEEP THE REVS HIGH IT CLLOS OFF, BUT AS SOON AS THE REV START DROPPING THE TEMP GOES UP, WHAT COULD THAT BE ?? DO I HAVE TO STILL LET AIR OUT OR IS IT @!#$ COOLANT ?? RO WHAT ELSE CAN I TRY, I AM PRETTY SURE THE THERMOSTAT WAS CHANGED BUT I WILL TRY IT AGAIN MONDAY

BUT WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE CAUSING ME TO OVER HEAT WHEN UNDER LOW REVS ???

AND WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GET ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM ???

maybe you would get a better response without all caps..lol have you bled th coolant system u say it goes down when ur on the gas is it acually hitting the red or exactly how hot is it getting?

just bleed your coolant line out good and see if it still over heats


Opening Soon Kustom J's

best way to bleed the lines ??? although it is a 90 gtz should i use reg collant ot dexcool, was a bit unsure

I was having the same problem until I finally did a test to check if there was gas from the cylinder head going inside the cooling system.

it turned out to be positive so I have a blown head gasket, or a cracked head or both

I remember having the same problem.
with high RPMs the temperature went down, but after a while the temperature wanted to go to the red so I had to rev it up up up 3000-4000-5000RPMs!!!! to keep the temperature at least 200F degrees.
I thought- this is bull @!#$ it "why can't my car be normal"
there was no white smoke coming from the exhaust like a normal blown head gasket would do. none of that....
there was no coolant in the oil"
LIke a normal blown head gasket... Nope!

I was okay going on the highway but after I stopped at a red light or something, the temperature went up to 240F degrees in just seconds!!! I was like WTF!!!
and the poor fan was trying to cooling the car down
poor fan, makes me sad. he was doing his job and everything...
J/K!!!
anyway, I also remember not having any leaks from the water pump or anything, but I changed the water pump anyway but it did nothing until I did the carbon diaxide test to the cooling system and it was positive!!! WTF! I hope I didn't crack the head DAYUM!!!!
that would suck ass lol

2.4s ROCK!!!

ok thanks i am going to do that today to see if that is it i will let you all know,

ok i got a flush and test doneit said, there seems to be rust in my system, that suck i hope it is not the block, but what ever, i am going to change the upper and lowwer hoses first as they are spoungey and a new thermostat, but is there any thing i can do to test the rad to see if the rad it messed up and needs to be replaced ???

Taking it to a radiator shop

Almost the same but not exactly I own a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire SE in which I went through hell trying to figure out what was wrong with my cooling system for about 3 months. I did every thing. Flushed the entire system, replaced head gasket, removed hoses going in and out of the heater core, replaced water pump and thermostat and still this thing overheated. I don't know how you can over heat a car in five minutes after starting it . So tell you what I finally fixed it.

so what was it ???

why did you go with the inferior intake cam? didn't want to mess with the power steering?

the Quad is a pain to get the air out of the cooling system, we did mine for almost an hour before I got it close enough to drive, after about three months it finally worked the rest of the way out, not too much more air in it, just a few small bubbles. we used a vac and everything. I got a 93 crate engine, and I used the Dexcool in it, no problems, now when I get on it it gets almost too cold and it takes a few minutes to heat up at a standstill. Remember, these engines need to move, they heat up quick in standing traffic.

overheating at idle in 5-10 min is normal. You got an Ho. Unless you do the fan switch and change ALL your cooling system to new, you will overheat at idle. Even with the new cooling system it will overheat, it will be better but it will overheat.

Another thing, you probably kept the J radiator witch is alot smaller than the Ho radiator. The Ho radiator is twice bigger than the J radiator.

So do the fan switch mod and use it. It's pretty much the only option with the Ho. otherwise you'll blow it fast.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

but even on the high if i hold te rpm around 2000 it still starts to heat up, so i should just run the fann on all the time ??? an then next can i change th j rad with a one out of a berreta ??? is there anthing else i can do to kep it cool ?? maby a brand new rad ??
take out the thermostat?? and would running dexcool be better ??? pls let me know thanks guys

when you stay still, unless you use the fan, it will overheat. When you're in town and going under 60km, it will heat up. If you go over 60km with no car in front, it should not overheat.

Even with the Gtz radiator it will heat up but a bit slower. First thing I did when I got the car was to put the fan switch.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

is the switch just a simple bypass or anything more involved ???

You can do just a bypass but you'll throw a check engine. What I did was to use another relay and plug it with the stock one. That way I could use the switch without a check engine. I think there was a procedure in the FAQ for the switch.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

I guess I was lucky, in the 36,000 miles that I owned my 90 GTZ I never once overheated.

thanks i will search for that , but if any one has it or can post if for me it will save me some time thanks,

i personally would suggest investing a lil money into a dual fan swap from a 99+ N-body, a grand am alero malibu or cutless

i was watching a post on that butlast i remeber they did not figure out the wiring, if there is an update let me know who harde is it to do ???

you know what it is messed up , i just left alone, i have had a chance yet to run the fan bypass plan to do that this week, but the car just stoper over heating, now run a bit warm if a sit for to long, but that is cause i dont have the bypass switch, i guess it was just air still having to get out !! that is wired but i guess hotbug was right just give it time

Time can make things Worst or Better

Since you had rust in the lines, I would also check the water pump. Sometimes as a water pump goes, it will move the coolant slower than it should. This would also make the lines feel more spongy than normal, because it's not making much pressure. I had the same problem on an engine before, and changing the water pump out took care of it.

Just cause it went away doesn't mean it's permanent. It will probably come back, and soon.

i put a new water pump on when i put in the engine, but thanks, i am after i get the bypass switch in switching to dexcool, and having one of those oil changers places do it, they use like a vaccume system no air