Alright, i managed to find a thread on cheap ways to adjust the camber NOTE: This is NOT for street use, this is for dirt track use ONLY.
I've been searching around for the last 15 minutes or so, yes, i have used the search bar before i get one of those "Search!" trolls, however, i have not been successful in finding the information i was looking for, maybe just looking in the wrong places and searching the wrong words.
I remember reading something about reaming out the holes in the front strut and using some grade 8 bolts, washers, and a welder to tack the bolts and washers to keep everything in place, but i would like to read all of the information on it, i do remember all of the details for the rear wheel.
So if anyone could tell me here or link me to the thread that has that information it would be greatly appreciated.
96 2.2L, #66 on the dirt track
I gained about ~1.5" negative camber from swapping to unmodded N-body control arms.
Or you can get an eccentric bolt kit for the strut to knuckle...
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Or just slot the top hole on the strut instead of messing with the spindle.
Tinkles(KGM) wrote:Or just slot the top hole on the strut instead of messing with the spindle.
lol yep
I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.
buy camber bolts...
with the vibration and forces exerted on the suspension on a dirt track, i'd rather have a cam bolt holding your wheel/knuckle in place then an "engineered" cheap solution.
the bolts aren't THAT expensive.
Tinkles(KGM) wrote:I gained about ~1.5" negative camber from swapping to unmodded N-body control arms.
Sweet, and nice to know.
strat81 wrote:buy camber bolts...
with the vibration and forces exerted on the suspension on a dirt track, i'd rather have a cam bolt holding your wheel/knuckle in place then an "engineered" cheap solution.
the bolts aren't THAT expensive.
Agreed.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
strat81 wrote:buy camber bolts...
with the vibration and forces exerted on the suspension on a dirt track, i'd rather have a cam bolt holding your wheel/knuckle in place then an "engineered" cheap solution.
the bolts aren't THAT expensive.
Could go either way with this. Some of the bolts out there aren't as strong as the factory bolts. In this type of environment, I could see them possibly shearing. I think a combo of slotted holes, bolts and some weld reinforcement would work best.
.
James Cahill wrote:strat81 wrote:buy camber bolts...
with the vibration and forces exerted on the suspension on a dirt track, i'd rather have a cam bolt holding your wheel/knuckle in place then an "engineered" cheap solution.
the bolts aren't THAT expensive.
Could go either way with this. Some of the bolts out there aren't as strong as the factory bolts. In this type of environment, I could see them possibly shearing. I think a combo of slotted holes, bolts and some weld reinforcement would work best.
.
Welding anywhere near the bolt holes is a bad idea... in fact unless you plan to heat treat afterward you should'nt weld on any suspension componants.
Get camber bolts... be done with it :-)
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
James Cahill wrote:strat81 wrote:buy camber bolts...
with the vibration and forces exerted on the suspension on a dirt track, i'd rather have a cam bolt holding your wheel/knuckle in place then an "engineered" cheap solution.
the bolts aren't THAT expensive.
Could go either way with this. Some of the bolts out there aren't as strong as the factory bolts. In this type of environment, I could see them possibly shearing. I think a combo of slotted holes, bolts and some weld reinforcement would work best.
.
if you're buying a quality part, i highly doubt you will shear them. (moog's are all of 11 bucks on amazon) rallyxing my wrx, I ran the factory camber bolts and never sheared a bolt.
So in the front i could just use a control arm from an Alero? That works fine for me as i plan on getting the strut and spring from one for the stiffer spring here on the weekend.
96 2.2L, #66 on the dirt track
Adam L wrote:So in the front i could just use a control arm from an Alero? That works fine for me as i plan on getting the strut and spring from one for the stiffer spring here on the weekend.
Yes, the 99 model year was the only year to have aluminum control arms.
Does it have to be one with the aluminum control arms or can it be any Alero? I really don't care if they're aluminum or not lol
96 2.2L, #66 on the dirt track
Alright, thanks for the info. I like the control arm swap a lot more than the idea of reaming out the holes in the strut.
96 2.2L, #66 on the dirt track
