I swapped my stock rotors for slotted and drilled but when I press the brake pedal when I go 55 or 60 (speed limit) on 95 it feels like my caliper is loose os something cause my steering wheel feels like it rattles and my brake pedal pulsates. Was wondering if anyone had an idea of what it might be?


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

warped rotors?

Brand new did it when I first placed them on. I'm not sure it its just bad calipers or something close to that. But I know I gotta do my drums.


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

clean the corrosion off your hub facings, sometimes rust will make the rotor have excessive runout.

http://3mcollision.com/scotch-brite-roloc-brake-hub-cleaning-disc-kit-07547.html

New pads too? Did you break them in?


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Ill look for corrosion and ya broke everything in. When I ordered rotors I got new pads with them


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

are these powerslots or noname/ebay rotors or something else? Just wondering if its brand name stuff or cheap stuff?


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

What about the caliper pins, were they greased and did they slide smoothly? I did brakes and forgot to buy grease for this, had the same problem. Greased them up the next day and the problem was resolved. Worth checking for sure.






"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Not sure the name I completely forgot but ya I grease everything up


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

That could be part of the problem too, if they are some cheap made in china no name rotor.... I would try to figure out what brand they are and where you bought them from? Pads too?
Powerslots were too expensive for me so I got parts store wagner rotors and Hawk HPS pads, everything cost just over $100 in canada, Im sure stuff is cheaper if you live in the states. Can't wait until I can put summer tires back on, the winter tires dont have enough traction on pavement, the abs just kicks in.


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?



2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?

listen here stupid @!#$. warp is a variation in a flat surface. a variation in the thickness is just that a WARP. now don't quote me and try to prove me wrong. he needs to have the rotors turned or swapped out for another set of rotors. price has nothing to do with quality. now if you have something important to say, do so. if not GTFO.

His rotors could have runout, which is what you mean MRT. But it could be caused by rust on the hubs too. Frozen calipers wont cause this. And dont blame it on chinese rotors, if you go to the parts store and buy rotors they were made in 1 of 4 chinese factories which are all on the same street and sell to all the parts store brands. Only way to get rotors not from them is getting a power slot or wilwood, ect. And for the most part they're fine, unless you get some of the ones that they've been skimping on the nickle content, then these actually will warp after a few hard heat cycles.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

MRT, leafy ill just got with u guys and get my rotors cut lol. I know warped means heated spots over the rotors.


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

I wouldnt bother getting them turned. Its not really worth it. Did you make sure you clean the rust off the hubs and nothing got behind them?

And I take back my comment about frozen calipers, when mine were frozen and I didnt know I did have some issue with it pulling the wheel back and forth, but that was mid corner at 110. So maybe ones that are even worse could have that issue all the time.

So before anything else I would pull them apart and just make sure everything was done right and like nothing silly happened, like a rock got behind the rotor or you forgot to tighten something or some such.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Haven't really had the time to look been working mid shift so everythime I get out of work its night. Taking a vaca this weekend so ill have to look at them thurs or fri this week. If I got rust, do u have a suggestion on how I would get rid of it? Sandpaper wise?


Stainless steel lines? Who needs them? Just don't brake O.O

Wire brush, if its scaling rust use a screw driver or/and hammer to chip it off. Don't go crazy just lightly tap it off.

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?

listen here stupid @!#$. warp is a variation in a flat surface. a variation in the thickness is just that a WARP. now don't quote me and try to prove me wrong. he needs to have the rotors turned or swapped out for another set of rotors. price has nothing to do with quality. now if you have something important to say, do so. if not GTFO.

Holy @!#$ PMS...
whatever... If you have to turn BRAND NEW rotors, they are pieces of @!#$,
and yes I do know good parts are made in china, some of them also have a better QA system, Our work buys many good chinese parts, but at the same time, we bought tridon gear clamps from one of out vendors(made in usa) and they switched to pro core (made in china) and we have nothing but problems with them, same as the problems people have with chinese turbos on ebay, etc.....

Now I'll GTFO cause I guess we are suppose to turn brand new rotor and I am stupid and never knew that, I better run out and get mine turned...... Good luck with the brakes


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Don't know about everywhere, but at the machine shop I worked at generally we would not turn slotted or drilled rotors, due to the holes and such, many broken bits....

jason norwood wrote:Don't know about everywhere, but at the machine shop I worked at generally we would not turn slotted or drilled rotors, due to the holes and such, many broken bits....

if you are not taking off excessive amounts you are fine. most of the time i turned them only using one notch instead of two compared to a normal rotor. when i started at that company that was the hear say but after research we were able to provide the service.

rick- if you would like to be techinical yes you should turn a brand new rotor before installing it. provides better customer service. because the is always a slight variation in the surface. some are more excessive that others. why on some new rotors they pulsate under braking. usually people call them junk and return them for the more expensive rotors. and before you go off on a "turn a brand new rotor your nuts." rant. yes it is a very slight amount. usually less than a one thousandths. but most of the time with time restrants people clean off the oil and slap them on and deal with a problem later rather than prevent it.

woah, forgot to check back here.. i'll add my .02.. I did my front breaks last summer, mid june-ish.. brand new rotors, ebc ultimiax black slotted with greenstuff pads, new calipers & hardware. they worked fine for a while, my rear breaks were acting up then too, crappy drums (was waiting for jeffie's brackets to come out instead of putting money in drums) anyways, less than a month on the new ebc rotors and they were showing signs of warping/uneven thickness whatever you all want to call it. It doesn't matter if they are cheap parts store rotors or name brand rotors, they can warp. I put the cheapest set of rotors that NAPA had on my sisters alero and she has 0 vibrations since last summer. its the luck of the draw I think. if they were cheap rotors then screw them and buy new ones, i'll be turning mine here eventually, or replacing them, who knows.

Jordan wrote:woah, forgot to check back here.. i'll add my .02.. I did my front breaks last summer, mid june-ish.. brand new rotors, ebc ultimiax black slotted with greenstuff pads, new calipers & hardware. they worked fine for a while, my rear breaks were acting up then too, crappy drums (was waiting for jeffie's brackets to come out instead of putting money in drums) anyways, less than a month on the new ebc rotors and they were showing signs of warping/uneven thickness whatever you all want to call it. It doesn't matter if they are cheap parts store rotors or name brand rotors, they can warp. I put the cheapest set of rotors that NAPA had on my sisters alero and she has 0 vibrations since last summer. its the luck of the draw I think. if they were cheap rotors then screw them and buy new ones, i'll be turning mine here eventually, or replacing them, who knows.

You didnt bed them right. I very much disagree with the EBC instructions with their pads and prefer to use hawks instructions for bedding brakes.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Here's also a good question to ask if they are on the wrong side meaning if the drivers side is on the passenger side and vise versa it will also give u a bad vibration and will also make those pads wear very fast and could heat uo the rotors and damage those as well...

Leafy wrote:

Jordan wrote:woah, forgot to check back here.. i'll add my .02.. I did my front breaks last summer, mid june-ish.. brand new rotors, ebc ultimiax black slotted with greenstuff pads, new calipers & hardware. they worked fine for a while, my rear breaks were acting up then too, crappy drums (was waiting for jeffie's brackets to come out instead of putting money in drums) anyways, less than a month on the new ebc rotors and they were showing signs of warping/uneven thickness whatever you all want to call it. It doesn't matter if they are cheap parts store rotors or name brand rotors, they can warp. I put the cheapest set of rotors that NAPA had on my sisters alero and she has 0 vibrations since last summer. its the luck of the draw I think. if they were cheap rotors then screw them and buy new ones, i'll be turning mine here eventually, or replacing them, who knows.

You didnt bed them right. I very much disagree with the EBC instructions with their pads and prefer to use hawks instructions for bedding brakes.

Didn't bed them right?