Cheap local rotors lasted 3 months then warped
Expensive local rotors lasted 8 months then warped

I looked one ebay and see slotted/drilled rotors for 70-80 shipped for the pair.

Comments?


99 cav 2.2L 212,000 miles
97 cav 2.2L 110,000 miles
91 cav 2.2L 236,000 miles RIP
04 Silverado Z71 Ext.Cab 55,000 miles
01 Suzuki SV650 22,000 miles
97 Arctic Cat ZRT 600 6,000 miles

check the rest of your braking system, i had cheap rotors on my old cavalier (an 89, but it had the same brakes and was a much heavier car) and they lasted for two years before even being able to feel any ridges. sounds like you've got something else wrong there.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

^ I hear you. Last time I cleaned the sliders but this time I will buy all new ones.

Either way, I need new rotors.


Autozone has baer* slotted/drilled for 135/pair. Ebay has different ones for 80ish shipped/pair

The autozone ones only come with a 3 month warranty. What the heck.




99 cav 2.2L 212,000 miles
97 cav 2.2L 110,000 miles
91 cav 2.2L 236,000 miles RIP
04 Silverado Z71 Ext.Cab 55,000 miles
01 Suzuki SV650 22,000 miles
97 Arctic Cat ZRT 600 6,000 miles

Heard good and bad things about the Baers. When you change your brakes on these cars, change the calipers too....there cheap to do lol....and saves everything else.
Don't buy rotors off of ebay....you get what you pay for.



M62, 42's, ZZP 3", ZZP S3 H/E
214whp 190wtq

Go with Powerslots....

http://stores.ebay.com/TriNET-Brake-Systems


Bought 'em for all 4 corners and love 'em!

Thanks for the feedback. I googled everything you guys suggested and a few other things.

These get great reviews on other sites.
http://www.cquence.net/-c-108_113_137.html?osCsid=0api7mb06q4muvgnlt3dq071g7

Just need to pick what one I want. Fronts only.


99 cav 2.2L 212,000 miles
97 cav 2.2L 110,000 miles
91 cav 2.2L 236,000 miles RIP
04 Silverado Z71 Ext.Cab 55,000 miles
01 Suzuki SV650 22,000 miles
97 Arctic Cat ZRT 600 6,000 miles

Oh and do those ones posted by nate come for a 97 regular cavalier? I only see them for the RS. I might get those since they come with new pads for 117 total.



99 cav 2.2L 212,000 miles
97 cav 2.2L 110,000 miles
91 cav 2.2L 236,000 miles RIP
04 Silverado Z71 Ext.Cab 55,000 miles
01 Suzuki SV650 22,000 miles
97 Arctic Cat ZRT 600 6,000 miles

There is a seller on ebay that seems to have very good quality parts. I forget their ebay name, but the company is called DRT. I actually visited their shop (they're in MA), and they have two levels of rotor. The higher level is a Centric Parts rotor, and they are fully powdercoated in and out, everywhere but the friction surface. I'm picking up a set for my DD in a week or two.

^^how much?

Look into powerslots. I've been beating them up in town with no problems so far.

Dave De Stefano wrote:^^how much?

I know they have had them on ebay for around $69 plus shipping per pair, but I'm not sure if they were the Centric Parts ones or not. You'd have to ask them. Like I said, I had my hands on some of their products, and they are good quality, especially for that price, and powdercoating included.

Here's their ebay store: Design Rotor Technology

buy brembos from swerve motorsports, he is a local shop by me and they are extreamly cheap.
something like 150 for drilled.
www.swervemotorsports.com
call him, his number is on the website!

awesome, man. thanks!

drilled rotors tend to crack when used for daily driving.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

i had brembo's on a year ago(drilled), and they warped in 3 weeks...then i put stock ones on, and they warped too...getting new calipers this weekend, that might have been the problem...i'm not that hard on my brakes...should i give the slotted brembo's a try?

OEM rotors should last atleast 50k km. its not the rotors........


Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.

thats what i thought...well, i'll get the new calipers, and then do a whole brake change up front, with rotors, and pads, and i think i need some shoes in the back...maybe i should get lots of pairs to keep up with the lady?lol

If your warping rotors that easily and quickly then theres either a problem in the rest of the brake system or the way you drive. I would not go with any kind of drilled rotors because they tend to get very hot and warp or crack after they get real hot a few times. I have had the powerslot slotted rotors with hawk hps pads on my car for about 2 years now and they still work amazing, usually when i get me car out it gets driven kind of hard for bit. They still brake like they did the say i put them on. I got mine from gravanatuning.com as part of a combo. There around 200 for the pads and rotors i belive and they great people to work with i would look into them. They also have a combo that includes stainless brake lines.

i try to be a easy braker....i hate when you brake, and you feel like you're leaning forward...i try to be as smooth as i can be. i have ss lines that are gonna go in with the new calipers, then once i get the new rotors and pads, i shoudl be set, right?

yeah calipers rotors and pad should definatly give your breaking a good overhauling, look into those parts i told you to get above, you should be able to get lots of use out of them.

Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:drilled rotors tend to crack when used for daily driving.

Ill informed with that answer.
I've been running drilled and slotted rotors on both my daily driver and the Cavy.
No such problems with them cracking or otherwise.
Most people don't change their rotors until it's too late and the symptoms of wore out rotors show themselves.
WIth the little cost to calipers and rotors along with pads being so cheap, I change them out every 3 or 4 years of driving no matter what.
Best preventative maintenance you can have by just changing it all out for new. This way you never have issues with your brakes and they perform for you every time you need them.
If people weren't so cheap with their cars, warped rotors, and cracked rotors would never exist or be less of a problem than what it is.
Also a good set of stainless steel brake lines is a best bet for better stopping power on Oem style replacement brakes. Also don't skimp on the pads once you do go with some kind of performance rotor.


Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

^^ agreed. Especially on the pads. Sh!tty cheap pads are one of the culprits of many braking issues.

Also, many times a rotor isn't actually warped, but has build-up from sh!tty pads. It gives the feeling of warped rotors because it's uneven, and causes pulsing in the pedal while braking, and sometimes vibrations while driving.

The tri-net rotors do come for other models. I have a 98 Sunfire GT with both front and rear rotors (rear are neon swap).