Went through about 10 different posts and find some items but nothing clear...lots of speculation but nothing concrete!

Here's my problem...I installed the rear set up and my e-brake was super tight! So tight that the e-brake never fully released and was always in contact with the rotor.

Well...about a week ago the cable broke. Didn't snap or anything but where it goes through the welded tab on the rear axle (those that have installed these should know what I'm talking about)...basically the prongs on the cable pulled through the welded tab on the passenger side and now I have no e-brake (a little bit of tension on the driver's side but not enough to hold the car!).

I called SSBC and they said it shouldn't have done that...the cable is designed for the car and there should be no problem with it being too tight...much less the prongs being pulled through the welded tab. They said we'll send a new cable free of charge and claim it as warranty...not a problem (cool of SSBC!).

Well...I have the cable now (thanks to Karo...which is an entirely new story to tell how much he helped me out...owe you big time Karo....thanks!!!!).

Problem still...the cable just seems too damn short! I can get it back to the same situation but I can't get it to set right where it's not applying pressure all the time! It's not enough to lock the rear up...but I can't pull the handle enough to lock it up to hold the car! WTF!

Final thing is this....the car ships on Wednesday if I can get this fixed! If not, the shipping company won't take it without a working e-brake!

I need help...pics...something to help me install this e-brake cable so it works!!

Can anyone help!!!


Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

Forgot to add this tidbit...found this while searching but can anyone explain more....?

Quote:

called SSBC and they told me to back of the retaning bolt on the caliper spring and to adjust it

Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

The ebrake is actually off of a chrysler...not sure which one. The Napa part number is 93457. Hope this helps.

when I did mine I left those @!#$ brackets off completely. The e-brake is not at all tight, no drag at all, but it will hold tight enough to keep the car in place. With the parking brake on if you put your weight into it you you can get the car to budge but parking brake + putting it in 1st = golden. No problems.... till I put the turbo timer on

Bottom Feeder wrote:The ebrake is actually off of a chrysler...not sure which one. The Napa part number is 93457. Hope this helps.

Thanks...I've got the part already from SSBC.

Darkstars wrote:when I did mine I left those @!#$ brackets off completely. The e-brake is not at all tight, no drag at all, but it will hold tight enough to keep the car in place. With the parking brake on if you put your weight into it you you can get the car to budge but parking brake + putting it in 1st = golden. No problems.... till I put the turbo timer on

So the brakets you left off? The metal ones shaped like an "L"?

Hmmm....how much does it hold the car?

Currently mine won't release all the way yet won't grab fully either...it's a reall PITA to me!!! The shipping company won't accept the car like this...so I have to get it to work...not as factory does but at least to a degree better than it is!

Not sure if your way Ryan would be enough?

Still want to know about this...

Quote:

called SSBC and they told me to back of the retaning bolt on the caliper spring and to adjust it

Thanks to both of you though...any other thoughts let me know....



Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

yes I left both of the "L" brackets off. It will holdthe car in place enough that it doesn't roll even on a hill but I still leave it in 1st with the parking brake on.

Darkstars wrote:yes I left both of the "L" brackets off. It will holdthe car in place enough that it doesn't roll even on a hill but I still leave it in 1st with the parking brake on.

Thanks Ryan...I'll try this in the morning then...see if it solves my problem (at least enough to get the car shipped!)




Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

Quote:

Bottom Feeder wrote:

The ebrake is actually off of a chrysler...not sure which one. The Napa part number is 93457. Hope this helps.

No the ebrake is from an earlier 90's Mustang. It actually states that in the SSBC manual. That is not to say that pads from different vehicles don't in the calipers

I had the same issue with my SSBC rears. I shortened the L-brackets to put some slack into the cable, and I haven't had an issues since then




Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
LD9 for Life

Blwn LD9 wrote:I had the same issue with my SSBC rears. I shortened the L-brackets to put some slack into the cable, and I haven't had an issues since then

Thanks!! All the advice I can get I'll take!!

Going to work on it this morning...got three things to try....let's hope one works!




Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

I just ordered mine from karo last thursday. From what I've read I'm glad my cars a auto dont really need to worry if the E-brake works lol. But looks like I'll be leaving the bracket off.

I needed to make my e-brake work so the car would pass state inspection


Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
LD9 for Life

i dont remember if we have a adjuster on our park brake cables or not , been so long since i looked

usually its where the cable splits from 1 into 2 , or at the park brake lever

i know we do not have a adjustment at the lever , i recently replaced my lever from the toyota back to the chevy

forgot to mention

on the baer copy rears i had , if you pumped the pedal alittle , and pressed the pedal down , then pulled up on the park brake lever , it usually held the car alot better than if you just pulled the lever

Thanks guys...I got stuck at work all day and just got home...no work on the car today!

I'm off tomorrow though so I'm going to see if any of these things will work or help.

BLWN LD9...Any change you have pics available to email me? dntwarman@t-online.de

Thanks again guys....I'm sure I can get in there with the suggestions I have and get this thing to work enough to get past the shippers!




Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

I will try to get under the car tonight and take some pics




Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
LD9 for Life

[quote=97cavie24ls(™)]forgot to mention

on the baer copy rears i had , if you pumped the pedal alittle , and pressed the pedal down , then pulled up on the park brake lever , it usually held the car alot better than if you just pulled the lever

I found this as well. Looking at the other posts in this thread though, I get the impression the SSBC setup must be completely different. The BAER setup was easy. Just hook it up, and then set the tension spring with the stopper that comes with the kit.

I believe the BAER rear calipers are meant to be used with an ebrake that pulls a little further than the j-body cable does, so pre-loading the brake (using the pedal) allowed you to set it good and firm.

It just became second nature for me to press the brake, then pull the handle.

Well I figured this thing out finally...at least for me! Not saying this works for everyone with SSBC rear disc brakes....

Two things...one the L shaped braket needs to be flipped over and attached to the mounting plate and not the top caliper bolt. You can see in the pic (click it and it's gets bigger) the bracket is actually upside down from what the directions tell you.



Once I did this the cable slide right into the tab on the top of the caliper...

The other thing...since I still had some brake drag...I called SSBC and they told me to rotate the piston to relieve the tension some. The standard distance is 1/32 so it's not much to begin with!

Now...I've not done this part yet as I ran home to call SSBC since I work on the car on base at the auto hobby shop. Basically a full garage for whatever you want to do...$3 an hour and all the tools plus a lift! Awesoem place!!

So....once I rotate the piston I think this thing will work!

I ship the car tomorrow so not sure I'll get this part done before then...as I tink once I take delivery in the states I'll get to a lift or garage and have them do it for me since I won't have tools or anything (unless some Dallas peeps want to help me out come 10 Jul?)

I just got done cleaning it and she's ready to go...e brake works great too...so that's not a problem. I'm driving maybe 5 miles to the shipping place and then the on and off the trucks and then to a shop (or house) in dallas might add up to 25 or 30 miles with it like this...should be fine since it's not a lot of straight driving. Thoughts?

So...guess that's it...we'll see if rotating the piston works...but flipping that L bracket sure did help getting it all set up right.

SSBC thought I'd adjusted the piston while installing...saying it's hydrolic and mechanical...Thoughts?

Should be fine...it can ship at least...don't think 30 miles with a little rear brake drag will hurt it any either.


Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

looks good , when you get it to the shipper , feel the rear wheel , if its smoking hot to the touch , then it will need to be backed off

but atleast it will hold to get it transported

if its just warm to the touch and cooler than the front wheel , then id leave it as is , since its all self adjusting and pad wear will keep the distances correct

Glad to see you got it figured out, well almost. Im not even close! my bags is my parking brake..

I cant wait to check out this car @ the bash..

That L-bracket isconsiderably longer than the one that came in my kit. Which of those 3 holes did you have it bolted through, to the caliper bracket? If you had it bolted through either hole not closest to the bend, it would explain the extreme tension. It is supposed to be difficult to attach the cable, but not so much so that you break it.

The solution I had to a dragging e-brake was to open up the bolt hole and shift the whole bracket towards the rear of the car, allowing the cable to move freely within the eyelet cast into the caliper, rather than having tension on it. With that done, and a new cable installed, everything works perfectly. The handle comes up anywhere between 1/4-1/3 of the way (never as high as half) and holds the car solidly, with no release issues.

The piston is both hydraulic and mechanical, as it has fluid pressure as well as the cable actuation. Make sure the v-notches in the piston are facing up and down when you rotate it back, (will line up with a small protrusion on the back of the pad) and use pedal pressure to push it back out against the inboard pad, to take up the slack after installation. Be sure you don't simply push back on the piston like you would with a front caliper, as it's a ratcheting design and must be turned to go back in. Needlenose pliers do the trick, or one of those nifty rear caliper piston reset cubes you can buy.

It's the cable that's from a Chrysler, used on several vehicles but do not know which year. Early-mid 90s would be my guess. Dunno about anything else like the caliper or rotor.





14.330 @ 96.37mph

Ah. So it is quite different from the Baer caliper. The Baer one has everything built in so you don't need any such bracket.

Wild Weasel wrote:Ah. So it is quite different from the Baer caliper. The Baer one has everything built in so you don't need any such bracket.

So did your cables fit onto the "hooks"? mine doesnt fit at all..

Phewes wrote:

Wild Weasel wrote:Ah. So it is quite different from the Baer caliper. The Baer one has everything built in so you don't need any such bracket.

So did your cables fit onto the "hooks"? mine doesnt fit at all..

The Baer kit used different brake cable ends. Instead of having a knob on the end like the pic shown above, they have a loop on the end that goes over hooks on the caliper. Very easy. I had no issues at all with that. The only issue I had with my e-brake had to do with not using the stopper they provided to set the spring tension. The stock cable already had a stopper on it so I assumed (stupidily) that it would suffice.

After having issues, I put in their stopper as per the instructions and that fixed it for me.

See this pic. You can see the rusted stopper on the stock cable. Then you can see the bolt-on stopper that's quite a bit further to the left.

Just wanted to thank everyone here for their help as I shipped the Cavy yesterday!!

Got everything done and she's on her way to the US!! Next stop is Dallas and then on to San Antonio!

I want to thank Karo personally!! He was the reason, the main reason, I was able to get the Cavy ready to go. He went well beyond what anyone could expect! He is a true friend to me and I owe you big time Bro! Thanks for your help and he never, ever questioned why he should help me...you just said yes and took care of business! That was BIG TIME!!!

She's set to arrive around 10 Jul and I get to Dallas on 9 Jul....big, big relief to me!!!



Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?

Glad to see you got it taken care of.

On another note.....does anyone have the vehicle info of where that L bracket came from? The one that is in the picture in one of these posts that is flipped upside down compared to SSBC's instructions. Thanks