what exactly does the eibach or addco rear sway bar do? doesnt a sway bar have to be bolted directly to the frame to improve the handling noticably. i mean i noticed a litttle bit of improvment when i installed mine but not a LOT of improve ment.
During a corner, the anti-sway bar forces the wheel and suspension on the
inside of the corner to compress along with the suspension outside. The net effect is that the car hunkers down and resists body roll.
A matched set in front and rear will improve the overall effect, and I noticed your profile doesn't currently mention struts, which could also be part of your dissatisfaction.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, May 04, 2007 8:11 AM
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
yea i dont have struts yet. im actually working on saving up for the tein ss combo. so if i match the rear with the front i should notice a GREAT improvement?
Brett Basham wrote:yea i dont have struts yet. im actually working on saving up for the tein ss combo. so if i match the rear with the front i should notice a GREAT improvement?
I'd work toward getting those Teins before worrying about the secondary suspension components. It's hard to guage the worth of any suspension upgrade that's bolted to stock struts. If you didn't find the rear bar helpful, I'd hold off on the front.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
i find it somewhat helpful but not like i have heard a rear sway should do. i had the bar on my old z24 with the tein combo and it was EXCELLENT! i had it paired with the front sway and all anergy suspension bushings though. i just thought i should feel more of an improvement then i have felt.
Brett Basham wrote:doesnt a sway bar have to be bolted directly to the frame to improve the handling noticably.
Not on a torsion beam axle. The axle itself is a big sway bar. Adding a bar to the axle is increasing its strength. It would be a difficult project getting a bar attached to the unibody in this case, since the axle actually pivots on the unibody, it doesn't just move up and down. The unibody attachment points would have to be able to move up and down so the bar wouldn't bind.
Front and rear bars don't have to be "matched", they just have to complement each other for the type of driving you do. On a FWD, its generally not adviable to throw a huge front bar on and no rear bar, since that would essentially increase understeer. Rule of thumb- tighten up the end that sticking. If its understeering, tighten up the rear, oversteer- tighten the front. I don't know all the 3rd gen bars available, so I can't tell you which ones to use, but just pick them based on size instead of brand.
