I've done a search and came up with nothing what is the torque setting for the three bolts for the ball joint, I'm installing new ball joints in control arm.
Thanks
Well, since GM rivets the ball joints from the factory, it may be difficult to find a stated tq. amount. I'd just use a good lock washer and make sure they are tight. Then, after a few days of driving, go back and re-torque the bolts.
Assuming you know how to disasemble everything to the point wheere you can pull the control arm off the car, here are the instructions from all data. Also It states that you should follow the instructions included in the box with the new ball joint....I would also recomend using red lock tite to make sure the bolts and nuts dont get loose.
Drill out the 3 rivets (3) retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm (2). Use a 3 mm (1/8 inch) drill bit in order to make a pilot hole through the rivets. Finish drilling the rivets with a 13 mm (1/2 inch) drill bit.
Remove the ball joint (4) from the control arm (2).
Install the ball joint (4) into the control arm (2).
Install the 3 ball joint bolts (3) and the nuts (1). Follow the instructions in the ball joint kit.
Tighten the ball joint bolts (3) according to the specifications in the instructions.
Install the lower control arm (2) to the front suspension support (1) Notice Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the lower control arm front (5) and rear (4) mounting bolts.
Tighten the front bolt to 107 Nm (79 ft. lbs.) .
Tighten the rear bolt to 170 Nm (125 ft. lbs.) .
Install the lower ball joint stud (3) to the steering knuckle (2).
Install the ball joint stud (3) through the steering knuckle (2).
Install the ball joint nut (4).
Tighten the ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum-65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum to install the cotter pin.
Install the wiring harness to the lower control arm.
Install the cotter pin (1).
Then you simply reassemble the strut , tie rod , and the sway bar if you have it. make sure you TQ everything in place and then ur good to go.
Bringing this from the dead.
I just changed my two ball joints
and I didn't need to remove any thing but my tire and ball joint. With some man handling of the hub you can get at everything without pulling out on your axels.
The Rivets are a PITA I ground the bottom flat then drilled them out then pounded the rest.
Stock crown nuts are 18mms and the after market ones I used were 19mm fyi don't strip your stock crown nuts on or that's a PITA of its own.
Bringing this from the dead.
I just changed my two ball joints
and I didn't need to remove any thing but my tire and ball joint. With some man handling of the hub you can get at everything without pulling out on your axels.
The Rivets are a PITA I ground the bottom flat then drilled them out then pounded the rest.
Stock crown nuts are 18mms and the after market ones I used were 19mm fyi don't strip your stock crown nuts on or that's a PITA of its own.
