i use the russel versions. they work awesome, make it so much easier to change brake fluid. which is good, cuz i'm pretty harsh on brake fluid
those dont look like a bad idea. your really getting into the auto x thing haha.
Im in for these! What part number will we need for cavavalier and neon calipers
i have been looking at those as well... i like my vacuum bleeder but that would be nicer as my adapters for the pump dont quite fit the bleeders and i think its causing air to get in the system.
AutoFreak57 (97redgt) wrote:i use the russel versions. they work awesome, make it so much easier to change brake fluid. which is good, cuz i'm pretty harsh on brake fluid
russelperformance.com
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
Machzel08 (Teh Jew) wrote:russelperformance.com
not a good link (I copy and pasted... no good
AutoFreak57 (97redgt) wrote:make it so much easier to change brake fluid. which is good, cuz i'm pretty harsh on brake fluid
Me to, I only went to a couple auto X events last year but still cooked the brake fluid its looking nasty right now.
Phlatcav wrote:Im in for these! What part number will we need for cavavalier and neon calipers
when I figure it out I'll let you know
Darkstars,
Summit racing has russell bleeders for 9.98 /pair
www.summitracing.com
soon as i have part numbers im in like flin
Darkstars wrote:Machzel08 (Teh Jew) wrote:russelperformance.com
not a good link (I copy and pasted... no good
AutoFreak57 (97redgt) wrote:make it so much easier to change brake fluid. which is good, cuz i'm pretty harsh on brake fluid
Me to, I only went to a couple auto X events last year but still cooked the brake fluid its looking nasty right now.
Phlatcav wrote:Im in for these! What part number will we need for cavavalier and neon calipers
when I figure it out I'll let you know
my bad...two L's: russellperformance.com
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
hmm id like more info on this as well.......
because i'm nice.....
Russell part numbers:
Stock Front: 639580
Stock Rear: 639520
Camaro 2-piston Front: 639560 (i think)
Neon rear: 639590 (i think)
not too sure if those are the right years for camaro and neon, but its a start
How could I get a part number(Russells) for my Baer 13" front brakes? Would it still be the same as the stock number?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
you need to know thread size and length. try calling baer.
Cool, Thx
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I see nothing but problems with these. You will actually suck air into to the system when releasing the brake pedal through the threads of the bleeder. Even when you vacuum bleed brakes you still need to gravity bleed the unit for a few seconds to allow the air that was sucked into the system through the threads to bleed out. And with that check valve you'll never be able to gravity bleed them.
SPDDMON wrote:I see nothing but problems with these. You will actually suck air into to the system when releasing the brake pedal through the threads of the bleeder. Even when you vacuum bleed brakes you still need to gravity bleed the unit for a few seconds to allow the air that was sucked into the system through the threads to bleed out. And with that check valve you'll never be able to gravity bleed them.
Suck air in through the treads!!! hahahah you gotta be effin kidding me. hahaha And vacuum bleeding brakes does not require you to gravity bleed them either. Never ever ever have I done that on my CBR1000RR or my Trans am and had problems with brakes. I Vacuum bleed the front brakes on my CBR and still did rolling endo's all the time with no spongy brake feel. 2 doctors I work with have BMW M5's that they road race and a vintage EASTLAKE race car and they use either the russell speed bleeders on instead of the vacuum bleeder. If your gonna give info or advise, make sure you know what your talking about.
SPDDMON wrote:I see nothing but problems with these. You will actually suck air into to the system when releasing the brake pedal through the threads of the bleeder. Even when you vacuum bleed brakes you still need to gravity bleed the unit for a few seconds to allow the air that was sucked into the system through the threads to bleed out. And with that check valve you'll never be able to gravity bleed them.
by I see does that mean you knwo a bunch of people who use them and they have problems? Or does I see mean I'm an idiot talking out my out giving my opinion about how I dought they work?
First of all I know what I'm talking about and I'm not an idiot for giving my opinion. Although I personally have no experience with these speed bleeders, I bleed brakes all the time at the GM dealership that I work for as a mechanic. I have seen numerous times where air has entered the system through the threads of the bleeders.
This is straight from the Russell FAQ found
HERE
Quote:
What are Speed Bleeders and how do they work?
Russell's patented new Speed Bleeders are the one-man bleeder valves with a stainless steel one-way check ball and spring. Install them in place of the original bleeder valves, and when it is time to bleed your brakes, simply crack them open 1/2 to 1/4 turn and continuously pump the brakes. The spring-loaded check ball opens to let out the old brake fluid and air, then closes between pumps to prevent the old fluid or air from re-entering the brake system. When new fluid starts coming out the Speed Bleeder, all the old fluid is bled from the system and you close the Speed Bleeder down. There is a patented thread compound on the Speed Bleeder that prevents air from leaking past the threads and also keeps the Speed Bleeder from seizing in the caliper. Sold in pairs, Speed Bleeders are available in both metric and standard sizes to fit most vehicles with hydraulic brakes or clutches.
Mr. Clint Pearson it looks like I'm not kidding you. Russell obviously has also seen this problem and they used a thread compound to stop the problem with air entering the system though the threads. What happens to the patented thread sealer after multiple uses?
Also found this on
wikipedia
Quote:
Pump and Hold Method, One Person Option: This uses either a "one man" bleeder tool, comprising of a one way valve at the end of a length of tubing which is attached to the bleeder valve, or a special one way bleeder valve, such as the Russell Speed Bleeder. These methods have the disadvantage that air is sometimes sucked back into the system via the bleeder valve threads, this can be alleviated to a degree by using teflon tape on those threads.
And found
THIS , which may be for motorcycles the shows the problem with air entering through the threads.
SPDDMON wrote:First of all I know what I'm talking about and I'm not an idiot for giving my opinion.
I never said you were an idiot... theres alot of thing I hear about that suck because someones friends uncles cusin's dog groomer had it and they crashed there car, which means it must be junk.
but it does sound more liek your speculating based on guesses, I to am a mechanic and I've yet to see ever see a single car through my shop with speed bleeders. I've still loking for first hand experience
ive used them first hand...work great
and here is the mother of all users: Art aka Event aka Suspension God uses them. he recommended them as one the best purchases he ever made for the car. If that doesnt convinve you i dotn knwo what will
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
I use them too, and love them. Makes a painful job sooooo much easier.
SPDDMON wrote:
Mr. Clint Pearson it looks like I'm not kidding you. Russell obviously has also seen this problem and they used a thread compound to stop the problem with air entering the system though the threads. What happens to the patented thread sealer after multiple uses?
You re-apply the thread compound, which you can buy from them for a few bucks. It takes several bleeds for the stuff to wear out though. If you're bleeding the brakes on a race car every weekend you might have to re-apply often.
CACC BC Region - DSP
http://www.victoriamotorsports.ca
Pretty cool little things...
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
I can conferm that the russell numbers are correct
. Got mine in today
