Yes I read the FAQ.
Yes I am getting ready to lower my car.
Yes I am getting either the Tein/Springs or Eibach/Spring pro kit.
No I don't what adjustable Springs/Coil-overs. (to much money).
Yes, I want a drop in the front of 1.75 and 1.77+/- in the rear.
So, after all that....
Q: What are the benefits of adjustable shocks? And are there some that are harder to adjust than others?
Q: What is the easiest system to install in my Cavalier? I don't want cut and chop and etc. I just want to good swap in swap out system.
I hope there is someone hear on the Org that is willing to help me find a good system, setup. My goal is under $750.00 if possible.
Thanks in advance.........
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Because of the drop you are looking for, Eibach Prokits are not going to cut it as they are only 1.4" drop F/R. You would need sportlines and they are (correct me if I'm wrong) 1.7" front and 2.3" rear...
Next up is the only struts that will warranty a drop over 1.5" are Koni Yellows or Tokico D-SPECS (Both adjustable)
DSPECS are your best best for no cutting, etc. They are a direct replacement and a simple swap. Benefits of adjustables like the DSPECS is you can soften them up for everyday driving (or crappy weather) then stiffen them up for "spirited" driving...
I got some DSPECS off Ebay for around $500 shipped in the US.
Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.
Most of the posts I've read about the adjustable struts fail to mention what they actually adjust. Shocks (and later struts) were designed to control the oscillation of the springs, when you go over a bump. The early racers discovered that you can control the movement of the weight as a car makes maneuvers. Shocks and struts toady do more for controlling the movement of weight, helping keep the tires in contact with the road surface
After reading about the major brands that are made for the J-Bodies, they all adjust the rebound (the extension of the struts and springs), while they have a fixed valving on the compression(ccompressionof the struts and springs). For about 98% of those using the struts, this is fine. The rebound valving controls the release of the weight from the ssprings in other words, it controls the movement of weight to the opposite side(F/R, L/R).
For road racing or autocross, you want to limit the amount of weight transfer all the way around. How much you control this weight transfer is all dependant on the car, track and driving ttechniques to keep the weight equally distributed as much as possible under all circumstances. Generally the firmer setting are used here.
For drag racing, you want to keep as much weight over the drive wheels. This is accomplished in two ddifferentways, ddependingon which end your drive wheels are located. On a RWD car you want the weight to transfer from the front (typically, where the engine is located) to the rear, to plant the tires into the track harder. This pretty easy to do, just have a soft rebound on the front, so the weight transfers quickly, simple enough? The rear setting depends on the ride hheightthe amount of wweighttransfer and ssuspensiongeometry, but is generally set to a stiffer(snick!) setting, so as you get the momentary delay from shifting, where some of the weight transfers back up front, you resist this transfer.
You run into a problem with a FWD car though, you want to keep the weight located over the fronts, not shifting to the rear. Here's where the rebound needs to be set stiffer(snick!). The stiffer setting resist this weight transfer to the rear, helping to keep some of the weight over the drive tires for more traction. The rear are generally set to a slightly softer setting, especially on higher powered FWD cars, so that during the brief weight transfer during shifts that weight can move to the front a little more freely. This can be a moot issue , as some cars/drivers can shift before any ssignificantweight transfer occurs.
Oval track rracingis a cross between a drag setup and an autocross setup. on starts and ccomingoff the corner you want the weight to transfer to the drive wheels, so you want ssomethingthere similar to a drag set up. While tturningon asphalt(and sometime dirt), you want the weight to remain on all four tire, for maximum aadhesion On dirt you want to transfer the weight to the outside tires, so the tires will bite into the track(not so on a hhard-packedtacky surface, though, you want the same as asphalt). Finally, for braking, you want to limit the amount of weight transfer, so all the tires can bite, you can use engine braking more eefficientlyand the tires have ssufficienttraction around the turns.
As you can see all forms of racing have their own needs, most of which can be ccontrolledmore or less through controlling rebound.
Enough of my ranting, carry on!
Excellent write up..Madjack..
I just want to be on lowering springs, with a nice ride, looking for some recommendations...
Looks like I'm going with some sportlines and ?
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we just told you, anything lower than 1.5" you need konis or dspecs and since you dont want to cut up your suspension, the only option left for you is d-specs
D-Specs it is.......Thanks
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Thats what I'm getting !
I'll be ordering then today !
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
MadJack wrote:
After reading about the major brands that are made for the J-Bodies, they all adjust the rebound (the extension of the struts and springs), while they have a fixed valving on the compression(ccompressionof the struts and springs). For about 98% of those using the struts, this is fine. The rebound valving controls the release of the weight from the ssprings in other words, it controls the movement of weight to the opposite side(F/R, L/R).
One minor correction... DSPECS adjust both Rebound and Compression at the same time. Koni Yellows only allow you to adjust Rebound to my knowledge. I'm not too sure about KYBs...
Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.
D-specs with Tein S-Techs...................
Thats what my setup will be...
Q: Are they easy to adjust? On the Top/Bottom/Side?
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Damn, how'd I miss that one?
KYB are rebound only. I saw a graph similar to the one for the d-specs, that showed the differences in the valving at various rates, but I didn't see it on KYBs site. It was in an automotive magazine a few months(?) ago.
Ok....if I go with the setup I said above will I have problems with:
1. CV wear or failure.
2. Excessive tire wear
3. stability problems
4. vibrations at road speeds
5. problems with alignments
6. excessive wear of suspension components
Drop will be 1.7 front 1.5 rear
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1. NO
2. NO
3. NO
4. NO
5. NO
6. NO
Hope that helps.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
Thanks my friend...was reading all the info on the Tokico website, kind of got me worried on all those things.
I have a 2004 Cavalier, do you think it will void my warranty or not. I mean I will not be doing anything to modify it or cut anything to damage the vehicle.
Thanks for all the input...Man, I sound like such a noob!
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Warrenty for what ? The whole car ? Shouldn't, it will however void the warrety on your struts as they're no longer the factory ones. Well at least thats how my service dept works it, If I were you and your worried about it just call the dealership and sak to talk to the service manager and see what he says. But it really shouldn't.
And dude a newb ? Puh-leeze ! Look at how much I asked about the struts too !
Its all good, Theres no such thing as too much information.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
^^^^ Good Man. Thanks again.
Should be placing my order next week!
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I talked to Chad at Gravana and he says they'd ship to me next wednesday if i order them tonight. So it looks like about a week to get them. I'm ordering them when I get home tonight !
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
Cool man!
Keep me updated
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UPDATE ::::: I just ordered them and Chads seeing if I can get FREE shipping!
WOO HOO !!
Anyway Stripey your gonna love this, along with anyone else listening, Chad said and I quote "If your friend orders them within 3 weeks I'll give him the same deal." So to all of you wanting these and that are my friends call and ask Chad for the same deal he just gave Terry AKA Jackalope.
So my Tokico's and Tein's are on the way!
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
Glad I read this post 'Jack'
Still though, I'd like to be around when you do your install.
So lmk when.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
No problem M
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
since you hace a 4door LS sport... I thought you might want to see how it looks like with the Eibach Prokit + KYB AGX..heres mine
CaviFL45
Carlos...did you recieve my second PM?
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Carlos F. wrote:since you hace a 4door LS sport... I thought you might want to see how it looks like with the Eibach Prokit + KYB AGX..heres mine
DEAR GAWD that before picture makes me shudder.
D-specs + S-techs are gonna be a killer ride. Post pics when you're done!
MadJack wrote:
You run into a problem with a FWD car though, you want to keep the weight located over the fronts, not shifting to the rear. Here's where the rebound needs to be set stiffer(snick!). The stiffer setting resist this weight transfer to the rear, helping to keep some of the weight over the drive tires for more traction. The rear are generally set to a slightly softer setting, especially on higher powered FWD cars, so that during the brief weight transfer during shifts that weight can move to the front a little more freely. This can be a moot issue , as some cars/drivers can shift before any ssignificantweight transfer occurs.
ok see that contradicts most of what I heard before and I'm getting really confused. I heard two things before: that for drag racing with a FWD you want stiff on all 4 corners to negate weight transfer
OR
that you want soft in the front and stiff in the rear...
can we reach an agreement here ? I've been using the stiff on all 4 struts but my 60' aren't good at all, though that might be attributed to my 17" low profile tires...
15.574 @ 89 mph stock without charger. new times with charger coming soon.
