i wanna lower my sunfire.... dont know how low yet soo could ppl just post a pic and state how big of a drop they got

thankss

search, i just made a HUGE post of all of this! here, ill give it to ya.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=109658&t=109658

I dont have pics but ive got this has a new setup since 1 week now.

Tokico D-spec
Tein S.Tech 1.7front and 1.5 rear.

Ill get pics on site tomorrow after I was my car... Dirty has hell.


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My Car Specs

2003 Cavalier LS Sport
Eibach ProKit (1.5'' drop)
KYB AJX Adjustable shocks






CaviFL45

this will be locked

lol, i dont think anyone even read what i posted, they just skipped over it lol

jWagg wrote:search, i just made a HUGE post of all of this! here, ill give it to ya.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=109658&t=109658

-Brandon

jWagg wrote:search, i just made a HUGE post of all of this! here, ill give it to ya.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=109658&t=109658

sry jwagg....i looked guess not good enuf....only thing is i wanna see the drop but i wanna know how low everyones is. so i can get an idea of how low im goin....i like urs jwagg how low is that

wow, you must not read haha. everyone posted how they are lowered and a picture.......... thanks for the comment!

Anyone know what drop gives a parallel control arm?



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

From the other thread I posted in:

ln2johnny wrote:Sprint 1.8" lowering springs, Tokiko D-Specs, stock mounts. This picture was taken less than a week after I installed everything, and it's actually a little more than 2" in the rear, I sat next to another Cavalier that had Eibach Sportlines and there was almost no difference in ride height between the two.

OHV notec wrote:Anyone know what drop gives a parallel control arm?

read through the faq's

email from Koni wrote:There is no set drop that would instantly void the warranty but if the
shock is bottomed from having the car too low, it will void it. It also
depends on the spring rates that are being used with how low you're
making the car. Don't forget that the best amount of lowering for
performance is when the front lower control arm is parallel with the
ground (which is usually only an inch or inch and a half lower than
stock). Thanks for writing.

Gordon

My control arms are almost parallel. There's a slight angle to them but the handling is pretty decent. Then again anything is better than stock.

Thanks Bagged. I've read through that thread twice and somehow didn't catch that.
Now, as far as camber goes, wouldn't you want the control arm to be parallel to the subframe at full operating compression (w/MacPhearson strut at least)? If it's parallel at a standstill, compression in a corner will actually gain positive camber WRT the ground?



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

positive is what you want in cornering. the tire coming in and the weight of the car pushing out makes the tire basically straight up and down with tire flex. keeps the best contact patch possible.

i'm dropped on Sprints and run Koni yellow in the front and will be adding the yellows to the rear as soon as i buy the insert. rear suspension is Alero IRS.

Dropped on 1.2" suspenstion techniques, not too low but still improved look over stock.



Don't buy from MANTAPART!!

purplezed wrote:positive is what you want in cornering. the tire coming in and the weight of the car pushing out makes the tire basically straight up and down with tire flex. keeps the best contact patch possible.

i'm dropped on Sprints and run Koni yellow in the front and will be adding the yellows to the rear as soon as i buy the insert. rear suspension is Alero IRS.

I thought you wanted negative camber P@T... with the top of the wheel tipped in slightly... I just checked my DSPECs Suspension tuning guide and it states that you never want positive unless you are running oval tracks......



Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.