After all the work I did this winter
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=107835&t=107835#107835 on the front end I finally realized doing the alignment last friday that the drivers side rod end would bind on the steering arm bad due to the upward curve of the stock tie rod. Not sure if this applies directly to you thrid gen guys.
Anyway, in order to still use rod ends on my tie rods, thus allowing me to adjust the bumpsteer like I wanted but not have the rod end come in contact with the steering arm I came up with a little something.
I thought if I moved the outer rod end to the bottom of the steering arm it would tend to bind less, and would also give me more room above it so I dont need to worry about the smaller brake booster (something I thought I would need to do, maybee). I also decided I wanted to use a straight tie rod if I could. Turns out by moving the tie rod location out and down I could use a straight tie rod and not contact the end of the rack or the brake booster. The straight aluminum tie rods are easy to get and super cheap...
To mock it all up I made a simple L bracket to attach to the rack where the inner tie rods usually connect. (this will ultimately be replaced by a 1x3x5" or so machined aluminum block. The inner rod end attaches vertically to the bottom of this block. I figured I would get some splined 5/8" wheel studs and press them down into the block so they point at the ground. Then I can easily bolt them down from under the car without having to hold a bolt too. For the tie rod mockup I just tapped the ends of some 1/2" electrical conduit. I will order the 1" aluminum tie rods this week.
Having both tie rods bolted in a vertical fashion allows me to shim either end to compensate for bump steer. I set up my bump steer gague and was pleasantly surprised to find that the bumpsteer with no shims was 1/2 that of stock. Originally I measured about 0.145" of toe out over 2" of compression. Now I only get about 0.075" over the same travel. Im sure with some time I may be able to get it even better.
Here are a few pics of how it all looks. Keep in mind this is just a mockup. I didnt have any of hte right sized bolts, hence the stacks of washers here and there.
(yes I will need to extend my one heater core hose so it stays horizontal and clear of the steering. Other wise there are NO interferences.
Hopefully I will have the final version ready in a week or so.
Cheers,
Dan
YEP, my 60' times suck
247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor
Project updates and stuff:
www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com
Ya, its not easy to explain.
I have the drawing for the block just about ready. Should I have 3 made?
Dan
YEP, my 60' times suck
247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor
Project updates and stuff:
www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com
That is absolutly amazing. These suspension posts are my favorite part of this site. Please keep us informed how it all works when you are done!!
P.S. I don't think this applies to the third gen guys, we have different racks with the tie rods comming out of the end.
Go Go OG Traction!!
I would be inclined to use stainless radius rod for the tie rods(the ones in the pic look like aluminum) and a steel block instead of aluminum. Looks good though.
The rod ends in the pic are some cheap steel on steel ends I had around. I ordered some harnened steel teflon lined ones today.
The tie rods will be 1" OD 0.2" wall aluminum (from a circle track place). The ones in the pic are actually PVC lol
And the block will be aluminum as well. You can see the drawing of the block
HERE
Dan
YEP, my 60' times suck
247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor
Project updates and stuff:
www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com
I finally got the real adaptor block back from the machine shop a couple weeks ago but I have been busy working on my GTI so Im just getting back to it tonight.
Anyway, here is hte block with the moroso 5/8" wheel studs pressed in.
top side
And pretty much how it will be assembled.
I just need to make a small relief cut in the back corner of the block to clear the steerign rack boot and remove the heater core to install the new all aluminum one so that I can reroute the lines away from the steering. Hopefully later this week.
Dan
YEP, my 60' times suck
247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor
Project updates and stuff:
www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com
