Hey.... does anyone know anything common that likes to make a 3.1 want to stall off idle, and them be perfectly fine once it starts eccelerating?
Depending on the day and how cold the car is.... sometimes it will actually die if I give it too much gas..... but most the time it just pauses for a second like it wants to die then just takes off.
I fiqured I'de ask before I start the checking process...
plus I'm not in a hurry to fix it unless it's inexpensive because the car is my beater and not much money goes into it.
By beater.... I mean the 91 Buick Regal in my profile..
check your alternator voltage. you should have 13.5-14.4 with the vehicle running. These alts commonly fail as do the crank sensor and coilpaks, which are the other 2 things I would go for. The crank sensor is located on the back of the block and cost about $20.
The check engine (service engine soon) light started coming on after the car sits and idles for awhile (wont come on going down the road) and if I shut it off and start it again, it goes out....... im wondering if the 2 are connected.
Since it's obd1 i should be able to check it easy.... but as I recall the car isnt supposed to be running.... (key on, engine off).... hopfully the code is stored even if the light isnt on...
It's been awhile since I've had an OBD1 car..... I should really get a book for it.
Oh..... since I cant see without putting the car on ramps..... do those engines have 1 or 2 O2 sensors? I cant remember if there's one in each manifold, or just one after the y-pipe.
test the alt voltage. CEL at idle, but not in higher rpms? Alternators are the #1 thing to fail on any late80s/early90s FWD GM.
Not to be way out there but,u may want to pull the egr valve and make sure it is good shape.If it has a vac line going to it pull it off and see if it makes any difference before u start it cold.Hell it could even be the 02 sensor(won't swear to this) but,totally a cel would result.If u pull the egr clean it and make sure if it has a metal pintal make sure it moves up and down freely,use some carb or brake clean to get rid of the carbon and a wire brush or sand paper.The egr controls the emissions hot/cold and can cause the car to choke,cut off or not even run if its gummed up or stuck being the rubber diaphram inside may lose vacumm and create this problem.I do not this the egr will necess set a code based on my obd 1 exp.There are so many things that could cause the problem like the IAC,throttle position sensor, map sensor, etc.I say check the voltage if fine,go to my suggestion and obd 1is simple u can use a paper clip to make it flash the codes in the pin holes (I am way lazy to tell u which being tired)Hope this helps.The real oldschool.
I started thinking about it and fiqured that it almost has to be the MAP sensor...... and it was
$40 part and it's fixed...
Throttle response still isn't exactly what it should be.... but there's no stalling, dying, or hesitation anymore.... wich is good enough for a rigged up beater car.
Just a note if the throttle is not on the money the tps can affect if it is delaying.Not to mention new plugs,wires won't hurt and run some seafoam in ur fuel to help out those injectors.I would still pull the egr off and clean it bc it affects the cars running ability even on accerleration.I would recommend a tune up plugs,wires,air filter,fuel filter, O2 sensor if it is known to be way old,even changing the oil/filter and injector cleaning can do wonders for small change.I could ramble on forever and if the convertor is way old or has heat indications on the metal of being way too hot could be its got build up inside and the car is not breathing properly and this does affect how the car runs overall.Just some suggestions.I am sure u know most of the basix anyway.
