the pass rear fender well is rusted out on a 93 cav. where the shock bolts up anyone had a similar prob. or fix to this. if more info needed i can post again.


nothing

I have the same problem, only on a smaller scale. It isn't fully rusted out, just a good sized hole. Right now I keep the car in the garage (out of all rain and snow), since it isn't my daily driver. My ultimate solution is going to be to replace the entire quarter panel (inner and outer). I already bought a southern IN rust-free '92 Sunbird parts-car with only 60K miles on it. Yes this will be labor, time, and cost intensive, but this was my very first car, and I bought it brand new. I realize I will never get the money out of it that I am putting in, but I'm never selling it.

If you aren't as attached to your car as I am, you might just want to find one that is less rusted. Once J-Bodies begin to rot, it is tough to stop. Especially if it is exposed to the elements still.


'93 Sunbird SE 3.1 5-speed
'00 Grand Prix GTP Sedan
sunbird93racer@yahoo.com

Typical rot area on the 2nd gen. About the only thing you can do is cut out the rust and replace the section, or if you're really up to it, replace the entire inner fender.

I know I'm reviving an old forum here, but I'm having the same problem on a 92 Z24 Convertible. The wheel well and shock tower inside the trunk are basically gone. I was hoping I could purchase an inner fender assembly locally but two dealerships have told me their discontinued. I went online to gmpartscenter.net but the pictures they have don't appear to match what I need. The "tower" the shock mounts to doesn't appear in the photos. They do list an inner and outer fender (4 & 5) in the attached limk, and something called a pillar to floor mount bracket (no picture). Inner/Outer fender

Has anyone ever done this repair? Am I on the right track with these parts or will I have to try to fabricate something myself? I live in the northeast and it is difficult to find decent body parts in junkyards. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

From my experience the main cause of the cancer is that plastic guard for the filler tube in top of the wheel well. Here are some pictures of the first j body that had the same issues, I was 17 years old when I did this job and it lasted for the 5 years I used the car. All that I used were bolts, seam sealer,rivets to position the panels, a spare hood and tin snips.

I don't have to be pretty because the carpet covers the area.





Here is a picture of a wheel well that is solid,I paid $60.00 for the car just for the wheel well 2 years ago, since then I came across a solid 89' turbo so now I have no use for it.

Thanks, Lewis. I appreciate the pics, and its good to know the repair lasted five years. It's my daughters car and she likes it so I'll give it a shot. I thought it might be easier if I had a solid wheel well to weld in place but haven't had any luck finding one.

One of my friends is a Moose and Bear hunting guide here in Newfoundland and most of the hunters are from Maine and Penn. State area, I could have one of them take my spare wheel well to the U.S and you can have it if you need it. I want to have the spare cars crushed this summer to clean up a bit so I can cut it out before they are gone and you can makeup something temporary then do a real good on it job in the fall.

Wow. That would be great. I live it Connecticut so I'm not too far from Maine or PA.

Right on then,
I will cut it out in the next week or two and cut the floor panel around the seam, then cut the outer well close the quarter panel lip so that you can properly drill out all the spot welds along the seams to have a complete panel to weld in then seal the seams.
The moose season starts the first week of September until the end of November but it doesn't usually take them 4 weeks before everyone has an animal and the ones that have animals often stay and help the rest get thier's. Before they ever leave the Island the meat is cut into steaks,roasts,ground meat,sausages and all vaccume sealed, those guys don't play around when it comes to hunting and they invest alot of dough to pull it all off.

I have to ask you something, do you live close to or know of a place called Neosho? I believe it's in WI. Because there is an internet business in that area that I am interested in a turbo from but would like reassurance about them, or possibly have someone make a p2p transaction with these guys.

Thanks, Lewis. That is awesome. I have a friend from WI who's coming for dinner later tonight. I'll ask them about Neosho.

Lewis, there is a Neosho in WI, but my friends weren't familiar with that area. They're originally from WI but live here now. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

That is no problem, I am buying the turbo in June hopefully and I possibly have a friend pick it up in person because it is close to the Great Lakes so that is good.

My sawz-all broke at the main shaft so I will be forced to use cutting wheels to get it out, is your outer wheel well in good shape or rusted, and how far is the rust gone on the inner panel toward the passenger compartment. If you could post a couple of jpegs then I will know where to cut the panel for sure.

Hi Lewis, I was on vacation this week so I was away from the computer for a few days. I'll take a few pics today and load them.

I was having trouble loading pics here so I sent them to the email address listed in your profile. Hope thats OK. Joe

I never realized your car was a convertible, where inner well meets the floor pan is a bit different and the inner panel looks shallower but it could be made to fit I guess. You should compare the two pictures and see what I am talking about.

It looks like its close enough to make it work with some minor mods. But if its a pain to get out then don't worry about it. I'll just have to fabricate something.

No, I don't have a problem taking it out for you because it will be going to waist if nobody takes it ,you could make it work with some mods where the panel from the coupe is a little larger.

Thats what I was thinking too. I can trim the panel to make it work. I appreciate all your help.